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Triglav, Slovenian Route - Prevčev Exit

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dolenjka&primorc17. 08. 2015 08:30:30
The route is equipped with pitons where necessary.
Good luck and best regards.
Branko
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dprapr17. 08. 2015 13:17:36
To go into the Chimney without pitons and hammer...zmeden
Especially if it's your first time there, just get a couple of "jeseničanov". Just in case, if you stray somewhere.
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Mrki17. 08. 2015 15:27:15
Obviously you have plenty of everything and even too much. But you're missing smarts and knowledge, so I suggest a guide!
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Busterman17. 08. 2015 16:37:31
If you're bringing a rope, it makes sense to take something to place too, otherwise the rope also has limited use.
More than technical difficulty, usually in such routes the issue is orientation and time. Best, good luck
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ljubitelj gora17. 08. 2015 16:49:30
The route is quite complicated orientation-wise, but numerous pegs help us with orientation, testifying to the correct direction of ascent. The main orientation points can be marked as the White Slabs, Slovenian Gully and Slovenian Tower, the rocky pillar under which we finish the more than 700 meters long route. We walk a good part of the path, while the difficulties range around II, occasionally III grade.

Source: http://www.tejaoman.info/brezpotje_slovenska.htm
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JusAvgustin18. 08. 2015 09:40:37
As long as helicopter rescue and rescue in general are free, it will be like this...
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Zebdi18. 08. 2015 09:43:22
Unfortunately, the accessibility (of such and sundry) information on the web greatly contributes to this zavijanje z očmi
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SamoK18. 08. 2015 11:27:39
More than "accessibility ... of information on the web" contributes to such an approach a general conviction that for successfully conquering our mountains the most important thing is equipment (various helmets and self-belay kits), not experience and experience again, as was once the case. Thus, for example, someone in connection with the Slovenian even mentions that they have a self-belay kit or something so absurd. God have mercy!
(+6)like
SamoK18. 08. 2015 11:29:53
As I have written several times, the basic guideline for harder routes, even marked ones, should be that you progress to the next grade only after you have really well mastered the previous grades, and moreover, you go to a harder grade always with someone who has more experience. That's what protects you, not any self-belay kit or GPS.
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Potohodnik21. 08. 2015 11:32:45
Thanks to everyone for the advice. I think we'll wait a bit with the Slovenian route.
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Wine24. 08. 2015 14:42:40
On Sunday we climbed the Slovenian route in excellent company nasmeh Thanks to Marijan for safe leading
https://picasaweb.google.com/117183905851327197884/SlovenskaVSteni
(+11)like
JusAvgustin24. 08. 2015 14:49:59
Hehe, legends!mežikanje
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Wine25. 08. 2015 08:30:45
Yes, we swear a lot velik nasmehcool
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mailman25. 08. 2015 09:25:31
Barbike?velik nasmeh
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jedriličar25. 08. 2015 09:41:27
you were invited, now it's your fault you stayed home ... velik nasmeh
Blue Barbie and Black Barbie1
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mailman25. 08. 2015 10:04:47
I know, I wasn't home!!!!!!!!!jezen Two days earlier I would have invited... it was itching in me on Sundayzmeden, too late I found a free variant...grrrr.
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redbull22. 04. 2018 18:59:14
Triglav (22.04.18)

A bit before 5am my buddy and I started towards Slovenian Route. Previous day Gregor and mates did top-notch work, today there were already quite a few in it. Lower part is more fluid, higher it goes well and from Zlatorog ledges to Prevč's exit it's not far anymore. We climbed to the ridge via Miler chimney and to the summit. Conditions for descent to Kredarica neither bad nor great. From second belay onwards very well equipped route, bravo. Return via Za Cmirem, more or less on the butt.
Stay safe

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from the Zlatorog ledges onwards4
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Prevc exit6
towards Miler7
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Behind Cmir, even at high temperatures, a hiker's descent can be very fast.12
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tropine22. 04. 2018 19:54:43
Hi

I'm interested how far you can drive by car in Krma Valley and what's the path like to Kredarica? best regards JOŽE
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redbull22. 04. 2018 20:21:37
ask under Kredarica topic.
Path to Kredarica is potholed by cars, so everything circles around Kovinarska hut
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