List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Triglav, Slovenian Route - Prevčev Exit / Page 6

Triglav, Slovenian Route - Prevčev Exit

dprapr9. 08. 2018 22:04:20

Today's day was dedicated to brother's "abraham" first ascent of Triglav. Uh, where was that. zavijanje z očmi

Younger brother joined, who also has some round numbers on the list.
We approached Triglav via Slovenian Route and promenade up from Kredarica. Among others met Tone, who ensures hills won't be left unvisited behind us.
Despite the crowd we had a good time. Sometimes a change doesn't hurt.
Back to valley via abandoned (?) path past Staničeva hut and Za Cmirem to valley.

Nice day up there, supposedly going again at 60th anniversary. nasmeh

The view often wandered there. Memory of some times...

Only at the top does it need to be crossed.

Today it was his, despite the crowd of visitors.

And again sometime when there is less traffic.

Abandoned path (?) from Kredarica to Stanič.

(+11)

lijaneja9. 08. 2018 22:17:18

Ha, I think the last sentence holds for Praprotniks.
Yes, Drago, I was quite surprised to see you. That was the first granddaughter visiting grandpa. Uf, still five times up. velik nasmeh

That promenade was minor. On our ascent it was an unbroken column. Of that, 80% easterners.

(+1)

Gorska planika10. 08. 2018 11:18:03

Good company on a magnificent tour! nasmeh

redbull3. 04. 2019 07:42:59

Slovenian-Miler chimney-Triglav (02.04.19)

Road to Vrata drivable to the end, left car at Cmirem turnoff. Gully under larch or snow in it sinking nicely, higher much better. White slopes hard-mostly icy. Bučerjev section maybe only one posing slight trouble at exit. Climbed out on dry rock, maybe better later if more snow falls. From Slo. gully to Prevč exit no issues, nicely filled-of course several meters less snow than last year. To wall entrance snow sinking/stepping through. In wall to ridge between Mali and V.Triglav hard base, except traverse path. Weather super, descent to Kredarica and back past Cmirem. Now sinking a bit more than few weeks ago.

snow already melting, lower down it will be necessary as the path is

(+25)

dprapr4. 04. 2019 12:29:04

So much debate at Šmarna gora (I'll have to go up again), here nothing when it's a really excellent tour, spiced with Triglav approach.

(+9)

garmont4. 04. 2019 12:43:25

Congrats Dejan. Real, demanding tour. nasmeh

Drago, I agree. mežikanje

(+5)

slavkoa4. 04. 2019 13:06:34

Dejan congrats...yesterday wanted to suggest moving your feat to alpinistic ascents but here too you nicely spice up "usual" visits to our daddy.
Good luck further, Slavko&Mirjam

(+4)

lijaneja4. 04. 2019 13:54:58

Super. With Jocot you two are a real tandem.

(+5)

redbull20. 04. 2019 21:19:18

Slovenska/via Miler chimney to summit (20.04.19)

We visited it again before snow softens in lower part. Conditions as Drejči said, unique. More or less concrete. To Miler chimney sinking more or less, but in it hard base again. Traverse left on very good loose base, no wind-hardened snow anywhere here. Bit of wind so base better than previous day. Peek into Ivačič cave and descent over Prag.

Prevč concrete-like, if you don't have rested forearms it's not quite fine

we dug it out - exit from the second cave

(+6)

dRM20. 04. 2019 21:21:02

Bravo

exwannabe21. 04. 2019 05:07:16

Fits well, to sit on the Tower... good they renovated it so no one accidentally falls in. zavijanje z očmi

(+9)

redbull21. 04. 2019 06:25:36

Sitting

Far from that. Only armchair commentators sit, lie. And I opened the thread for a few pages.

(+1)

redbull22. 02. 2020 18:26:09

Slovenian Route with extension to N. ridge (Triglav) - 22.02.20

In such conditions it would be a shame to miss it, as it had been planned for a few weeks. Right away it was clear that the base was great and the ice coverage too. Past the larches great, white slabs, and Bučerjeva rock was OK too. Slovenian gully nicely iced all the way to the exit. Due to the great base we climbed directly to the northern ridge. Exit almost at the start. Along the ridge without issues. Down via Cmir.

(+26)

Filip_Culjak22. 02. 2020 19:16:20

Bravo Deyan, masterful nasmeh

(+4)

Nejc78722. 02. 2020 22:55:53

Congratulations on the ascent! Good luck ahead!

(+3)

Dr_Ursic24. 02. 2020 07:02:29

Video of the winter ascent on Triglav. Slovenian Route in the north face. At Prevčev exit however Dejan and I climbed directly to the northern ridge and along it to the top of Triglav.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=26s&v=ylg3bR7O_cI

(+7)

klemen9124. 02. 2020 07:38:07

Hats off to you both for the ascent and nice footage!!! Just a bit less fast-forwarding. The video could be a tad longer, anyway.

(+4)

Dr_Ursic24. 02. 2020 15:06:39

Thanks. Would have gladly made it less but the camera switched to timelapse instead of recording without me knowing. So next time the whole route will be more visible. velik nasmeh

(+5)

redbull1. 03. 2021 05:04:39

Sl. route/Prevc-Triglav (28.02.21)

In winter the classic always starts at Peričnik. Along the left side of the stream to the entry of the path over Prag. Skis on backpack and winter gear on. Incredibly well iced route, the start already showed it. Descent especially careful, lots of snow. White slabs extremely hard, icy (already a bit like a waterfall). Bučerjeva rock normally iced, Slovenian gully without sinking. Exit into the sun from the route with top conditions. We also do the summit from Kredarica direction. The path is well trodden since last Tuesday when we were there and maybe currently even the best conditions for ascent. From Kredarica summit we ski towards Stanič and behind Cmir to the valley. Great day