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Velika and Mala Mojstrovka

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mmmmEdo13. 01. 2012 10:03:17
What's the condition of the road to Vršič?
Are chains needed or not?
Thanks!
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bongo13. 01. 2012 10:07:53
http://www.promet.si/portal/sl/razmere.aspx

"snow on the roadway, road passable only for passenger cars with winter equipment"

if it helps
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mmmmEdo13. 01. 2012 13:07:29
I read that too. Thought someone has first-hand info nasmeh
Thanks anyway!
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ninaub13. 01. 2012 18:56:14
No, chains are not needed nasmeh No if going from Kranjska Gora, but from Trenta I don't know.
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Janc13. 01. 2012 22:11:21
Also from Trenta no chains needed, snow only towards pass summit for 1 cm, as much as left from plow
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ljubitelj gora14. 01. 2012 20:15:50
Nice sunny day but cold, today with company, ascent to Little Mojstrovka and Great Mojstrovka. I already put on crampons at Vršič, put on helmet and took ice axe in hand, but on ascent to Vratca I realized I am the only one with full gear, others somehow practiced poles and crampons or without, on ridge we all already had crampons and ice axe, on ridge it was blowing a bit, path trampled and crampons-ice axe necessary, winter conditions,.... it was supernasmeh but since we were already around 15h in Kranj I decided also ascent to Tolsti vrh "sunny" sunset.nasmeh
Prisojnik1
At Vršič2
Vršič, Špik in the background....3
friend stayed behind, what sometimes drives me, so I went back down and up again.... too much fitness4
above5
˝Mojstrana˝6
VM, Kotovo sedlo and Mangart7
Jalovec, Mangart8
Triglav9
closer to Jalovec, at least 10-12 of them I counted using binoculars.10
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snežinkica16. 01. 2012 11:26:25
Over the weekend we went with Marlen and Sebastjan to Vršič, the weather was very favorable to us, and yesterday we climbed Little and Great Mojstrovka. On LM three more colleagues joined us and together we conquered GM. The summit visit was quite crowded, almost like in summer .... the views were magnificent on both our and foreign mountains, pictures will come later ... nasmeh
early in the morning1
the moon shines2
We at the beginning of the ascent3
Towards the summit in windless and sunny conditions4
First goal MM achieved5
View across the border6
Opa, we met7
...8
Posing9
VM was still waiting for us10
Continuation11
Towards the summit12
track was okay13
and snow excellent14
view of the beauty Jalovec15
and also on us16
and towards MM17
then via mau ritensko back18
and also the rope we tried19
descent20
towards the car21
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miljer16. 01. 2012 11:56:43
Congratulations Snežinkica, Marlen and the others. I'm very sorry I couldn't join you, especially since the weather was so wonderful and good company. Next time!nasmehnasmehnasmeh
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Swiss17. 01. 2012 21:06:54
Hello "mountain lover"! I have to correct you about the name of the saddle on the fifth picture. That's Sedlo v Grebencu not Vratica as you state. Vratica is quite a bit more to the right when looking at M. Mojstrovka and Nad Šitom glava. It's the pass that leads to Sleme and Slemenova špica. They also differ in altitude! No hard feelings.
Best regards and safe in the mountains!
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ljubitelj gora17. 01. 2012 22:23:12
nasmeh
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viharnik17. 01. 2012 23:02:44
Move that black flat plastic holder of the safety strap of the Grivel ice axe from the upper part to the lower part of the loop that wraps the wrist. This way it serves its purpose and adjusts tighter so we don't lose the ice axe. Nice tours you're doing, stay safe further on!.
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janez.novak18. 01. 2012 20:09:46
Today the conditions on Little and Great Mojstrovka were ideal. Such a nice and especially safe route that I warmly recommend it to everyone; for Great of course crampons and ice axe are needed, for Little you can get there even just with good boots.
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ljubitelj gora18. 01. 2012 21:35:18
Janez no hard feelingsnasmeh crampons, ice axe needed up to LM, so that no one goes up without by accident.
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janez.novak18. 01. 2012 22:16:16
I thank the mountain lover for correcting my statement, as it could mislead someone. I wrote that under the impression of a really nice and not icy route, which however is very steep up to Grebenca. I had crampons on my feet the whole way to LM, but I admit the mistake of using poles instead of ice axe. On descent of course ice axe mandatory. On GM I had crampons, ice axe and helmet.
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matjaz118. 01. 2012 22:41:47
Hello. Today while skiing from Little Mojstrovka I lost a Canon camera. If someone found it, please call me at 041809862. Thanks and best, Miro.
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Ukec18. 01. 2012 23:14:22
I don't know M.M. well so I'm interested if the route that snežinkica and others took goes through the preparatory gully or something easier?
Thanks, best
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Parkeljc19. 01. 2012 00:09:45
Ukec, from Vršič the easiest approach to MM is along the scree or snowfield more to the left towards the saddle between Grebenc and the MM ridge where you turn right onto the ridge towards the summit.
I don't know where Snežinkica and the others went, this is the easiest approach to MM both in summer and winter, but despite that you need to be careful on the ascent towards the saddle, especially after fresh snow.
In winter ascent (couloiring) is possible via three couloirs namely "Butinarjevi", "Pripravniški" and "Zupančičevi". All three are further right from the easiest one over the saddle.
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JusAvgustin19. 01. 2012 04:10:10
and you missed a "couple" more of them...mežikanje
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turbo19. 01. 2012 06:13:04
and "through" the trees too, right Juš mežikanje

or, nicer, over NŠG nasmeh

and in between NŠG and MM eek
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snežinkica19. 01. 2012 07:45:58
Parkeljc, how do the other three gullies look difficulty-wise, how do they rank by difficulty? The first one seems quite nice to me nasmehnasmehnasmeh
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