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Velika and Mala Mojstrovka

Parkeljc21. 12. 2012 11:13:29

Yesterday from Vršič via Zupančičeva first to Little Mojstrovka, then also to Great Mojstrovka, descent directly towards Pripravniška gully and down it back to the starting point. Zupančičeva is nicely done, probably due to more sun exposure, in Pripravniška still unprepared snow and slippery. That day Butinarjeva was quite visited too.

view from Pripravniška towards Župančičeva

Janez Seliškar21. 12. 2012 11:31:47

The gully is not Zupančičeva but Župančičeva.

skala1234. 01. 2013 19:19:48

Does anyone know if it's possible to reach Vršič without chains (personal vehicle)

Nautillus 4. 01. 2013 20:12:52

Yes, possible.

skala1234. 01. 2013 20:29:16

Nautillus - Thanks

Nautillus 5. 01. 2013 10:44:03

jedriličar9. 01. 2013 10:27:28

On Sunday for warming up we climbed Župančičeva, then to V. Mojstrovka. Descent via Pripravniška. Weather wonderful, few people, barely thirty cars at Vršič. Road drivable without chains. Conditions solid, at the entrance to the summit part of the gully one small jump and that's it. Pripravniška well covered, snow like concrete, conditions excellent.

Not very promising when it comes to snow...

Some are already climbing, while the sleepyheads have just set off into the mountain

Short break and view of the second part of Župančićeva

Jump at the entrance to the upper part of the gully

Dr.ejči9. 01. 2013 13:31:58

Congratulations...Jedriličar, do you perhaps know approximately what time it was when you took the 2nd picture?...we four would very probably have been able to be there zavijanje z očmi

.
Beautiful tour and even nicer weather.

jedriličar9. 01. 2013 13:35:13

exactly at 10 we started from the parking lot, picture taken from half of the scree, so approx around 10:30-10:40. Plus minus a few minutes...

mailman9. 01. 2013 18:27:18

Jedriličar, you are an ace too!!! Really!!! velik nasmeh

jedriličar9. 01. 2013 18:45:58

As for gliding, definitely. As for this other thing, I'm just an older alpine trainee...

tol9. 01. 2013 20:17:02

I have one question. Is this really Župančičeva gully? According to the guidebook the route always goes right upwards?

This variant goes quite a bit to the left and then straight up and too soon reaches easier terrain? - I'm talking exclusively from the part where the picture also shows the "traverse".

jedriličar9. 01. 2013 20:27:47

Yes, near the top it goes a bit to the left. I have to admit I didn't compare with the picture in the guidebook (Plezalni vodnik, Gregor Kresal, Sidarta), we climbed following tracks, and there were no other tracks, only those we followed, and others before and after us. So if that's not the real exit, it must be some variant of Župančičeva. I have to admit that when we exited it seemed to me we exited a bit too low, but we met a guy who was going down climbing with his girl and I asked him the same, aren't we too low, he confirmed it's the right exit. According to the guidebook there's also another lower variant, marked on the picture with 7a, but it had a slightly bigger jump at the entrance, so we didn't feel like climbing that (see attached pictures)

in the 'real' Župančičeva voda traces right of my second, traces above his head lead to the left variant (7a according to the guidebook)

entrance to the left variant the jump is a bit bigger so we didn't want to bother with it, although there are traces above the jump

DarjaZaplotnik9. 01. 2013 21:39:24

I think your question @tol is completely appropriate.
Župančičeva goes on that huge, right-directed and easier terrain almost to the end and then up. Exit is almost under the summit.

best regards d

jedriličar9. 01. 2013 21:47:21

Look at the picture and the climbers in the upper part of the gully. If that's not the real Župančičeva, what did we and all the others climb then?

viharnik9. 01. 2013 21:59:08

I think Darja is right about the exit of the Župančičeva route, which ends right before the summit of M. Mojstrovka.
Still, you climbed well!

Dr.ejči10. 01. 2013 07:06:05

As far as I know, we climbed the Župančičeva, but at the fork we turned into the left branch called Leve vesine (7a = route sketch is on the previous page)... Jedriličar, those four are very likely us, as we started around 8.15-8.20...

Janez Seliškar10. 01. 2013 07:21:16

Correct, that route is called Leve vesine.

pikica110. 01. 2013 09:32:27

This picture was uploaded a year ago by @JusAvgustin http://www.hribi.net/slika.asp?razmerekomentar=94049

sin narave11. 01. 2013 14:38:34

Today with friends we set off from Vršič via Butinarjeva to MM. After Butinarjeva, one decided to go to the top, but we two took Pripravniški dol and then Župančičeva to the top of MM. We went along the left side of Župančičeva, not the right. After the summit, descent to Vršič via Pripravniška. Conditions were excellent. Frozen snow in the gullies gave even more pleasure. Today in the embrace of the Mojstrovkas there were some 10 to 15 hikers. nasmeh