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Veliki Oltar

YoYo1. 09. 2011 22:42:59

I harbor the same feelings for Martuljek and Severina nasmeh

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biso2. 09. 2011 09:51:00

hmmmm

pohodnik382. 09. 2011 14:04:21

@biso that on the first picture would be worth conquering...even if it thunders and cracks velik nasmeh

atoamac11. 09. 2011 15:08:30

The Altar is becoming quite a popular mountain, yesterday more than twenty of us queued up on its exposed summit. Despite the exceptional friability and the corresponding caution in ascending, even more in descending, indescribable satisfaction... even the fog cleared when it saw I wanted a 360-degree view. The ride down the screes is of course awesome.

Bojan_A11. 09. 2011 15:34:12

I was slapping my head a bit that I hadn't studied the approach to the Altar yet, when I did Dovški Križ so quickly. The weather was really cool, the screes too. Only a true Gorenjc would feel sorry for the boots. velik nasmeh

JusAvgustin11. 09. 2011 17:15:00

Too bad you didn't take macole! nasmeh

or what's the Slovenian for šraubštok? zmeden

anyway it's true what atoamac says... - exceptional friability

Bojan_A11. 09. 2011 17:34:46

Do you need a rope for going back down?

atoamac11. 09. 2011 17:40:18

no, you can go around, to the north

kolpa14. 09. 2011 10:49:14

I really want to conquer Great Altar and Great and Small Martuljek Peak. Yesterday I was on Mrzla gora, I have quite some experience but I'd really like info from you forum hikers on ascent to those peaks. Haven't tried pathless yet, but great respect for those peaks. A comparison Mrzla gora - Great Altar would mean a lot. Thanks.

JusAvgustin14. 09. 2011 15:02:32

Well, hard to find a suitable comparison between MG and VO-VMP. Difference mainly that MG is ZPP (though grab rock somewhere), VO is II-degree climbing, VMP III-degree. Problem with pathless is to start moderate (full spoon of experience, right decisions, good orientation feel). VO well marked with cairns and the path has taken hold, similar VMP to B1, then search a bit, summit chimney entry marked (if you know what to look for...). VMP a shade harder than VO ("normal"). VMP chimney longer and harder than VO's little chimney. Tours can be very long. Recommend sleeping in B1 and B2. Would help a lot if you write which pathless you've done (pref. Julijci or KSA), so I can virtually assess you and give opinion (not all will agree). Let's say for starters, pathless Martuljek completely different from KSA...

kolpa14. 09. 2011 15:36:54

Thanks for the reply and tips. In both cases - VO and VMP - I planned to sleep in B1 and B2; climbing II and III degree shouldn't trouble me. Pathless terrain worries me more about correct orientation to the goal so as not to "get led astray". Good that the path has "taken hold" and is marked with cairns. Haven't done pathless yet; according to your reply, I think I'm capable for the peaks, otherwise turn to the valley. I'll try the ascent next week if weather allows, weekend fear full bivouac occupancy. Thanks again, we'll "hear" each other.

JusAvgustin14. 09. 2011 15:48:57

On descent from VMP, recommend rope for rappel... good luck, hope it hooks you nasmeh

lijaneja14. 09. 2011 21:04:56

Curious if anyone recently approached Altar from Dna. In its cirque (between VMP and VO) probably still some snow and don't want to drag unnecessary gear for that trifle on fairly long tour. Satisfied with fresh heavily zoomed pic from Škrlatica.
Thanks for reply.

Navihan14. 09. 2011 21:29:53

@lijaneja, checked: no need to drag unnecessary gear, since VD cirque is dry; see my Sunday pics on VMP forum when I came down from VO. Good tour to you.

nata2425. 09. 2011 19:56:31

Yesterday again over Gulce to Škrnatarica via scree-filled gully full of gravel. Then traverse on the left side to Dovški križ. Plenty of cairns, and in good weather you follow them without problems. Midway there's an interesting window through which you see Špik. Then descent down to Šplevta and earlier right turnoff to Oltar. To the summit without issues, enough cairns. Then back down, en route also to Šplevta where fog had just lifted, past bivouac 2 over scree to valley. Super tour with excellent views.

View from the summit next to Škrnatarica

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pika7. 10. 2011 17:42:11

Given the rainy weather outside, the satisfaction from yesterday's ascent to Oltar and Dovški križ is even greater. Morning sun, afternoon some cloudiness, on the other side Triglav wrapped in fog velik nasmeh

. Bivouac inspection done, all good.

JusAvgustin13. 10. 2011 14:42:23

Does anyone have info how much snow is on Jezerih
and in Ozebnik? nasmeh

Janc21. 11. 2011 21:20:04

Towards the summit whitened with autumn snow,
19.11.2011

The snow slightly changes the course of the path

Ledge below the summit for crossing to the north side

JusAvgustin11. 12. 2011 16:28:04

Today with Pipi team to VO. We went via Brinja (may the hand of the one who marked the path with red dots dry out! jezen

). Snow starts soon at the transition from forest to traverse to the Šplevta wall, snow of various kinds, from wind-blown to frozen, crusty, breakable... Anyway, no need to say winter gear is mandatory! From saddle between Šplevta and DK we go by "normal route" to Grlo (2390 m a.s.l.). Conditions in the wall not good, snow not consolidated therefore we scramble a bit on rocks nasmeh

. Crampons scrape on bare rock, so we use hands and ice tools for progress... nasmeh

. At Grlo weather changes, starts clouding and blowing insanely, we decide to go down the gully to the wall and wait there a few minutes. Sky gets darker, starts snowing, so 100m before VO summit we turn around and head for alternative and attractive descent from the mountain. 2x rappel and we're at Jezerih. Wind not so strong anymore, just clouds racing across the sky. Descend to BII and refresh there. Another PN ascent, see you next time!

Klemen, Matej, Juš and Pipi

although we went looking for sun (on saddle at 7am...) we got a dose of adrenaline rappel and 1h of pure sun! nasmeh