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Veliki Oltar

lijaneja20. 07. 2013 20:38:14

After a good four years I repeated this beautiful mountain tour today. I thought there would be much more snow in Dnina, so my mate and I carried all the winter technical gear. The entry to the wall is nicely covered with snow, so it poses no obstacle, progress to the top of Altar is completely dry. On the way back the snow had softened so much that sliding in boots down to below the bivouac was a real pleasure. No visit to our mountain today, not even from Jezersko side, on VMP there were about 5 visitors.

Prisojnik - magnificent mountain. The middle spires are Zvonika.

Here in front of it poses my companion of today, Samo

Approach ridge to Oltar, taken from the connecting ridge between VMP and O.

The upper part of Dnina is still nicely covered in snow.

On the Martuljška side there is slightly more bare rock.

Kukova špica, Široka peč, Škrnatarica and Dovški križ.

Snapshot just below the summit of Oltar.

In front Mojstrovke, in the background in shadow Jalovec and Mangart.

(+4)

knap422727. 07. 2013 20:42:47

Today from the 3rd serpentine of the Vršič road over V. Dnina and further along the ridge to the top. Followed a pleasant descent to Vrata where transport was already waiting for us given the well-organized tour and COLD beer. Some impressions in the pictures. Best, Matej

now something can already be seen behind us

Continue until the path descends into kačji graben

Then with such a smile to the top (the rock is still 1a)

(+1)

koma22. 05. 2014 20:06:54

Altar via snake tongue, 21.5.2014
Start in Gozd Martuljek past three larches via snake tongue to Altar and back the same way! Up to bivouac height summer conditions apply, snow cover starts in upper part of krnica Za Akom, noteworthy at three larches. Snow increases with altitude, mostly southern and collapses under load already in morning hours, in afternoon we can talk about sinking. Conditions in the tongue are fairly stable, snow mostly southern with icy crust that holds reasonably well, in afternoon when sun softens it, it softens, so if planning descent same way do it as soon as possible. Still lots of snow on ridge between Ponca and Altar so iron gear in use all the way to top. On summit ridge of Altar still big snow pyramids piled, so couldn't precisely locate official summit, didn't focus on it either, as snake tongue was already warmed by sun and descent same way necessary ASAP. Sun had done its in the tongue and descent was already very difficult, locally dangerous!..and when you think it's all behind you, sinking up to ass surprises you when crossing snowfields to three larches and when you step on firm ground in krnica Za Akom it's a whole different world! In short nice and strenuous with real winter conditions end of May!

some more pics on link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/114984210815592749863/OltarKacjiJezik2014

snow patches under the northern walls still well stocked with snow

somewhere the steepest entry section right of the antlers

on the descent, Kačji jezik already in the sun

(+14)

Bandzo22. 05. 2014 20:17:33

Congratulations for excellent tour! Very nice photos! nasmeh

(+2)

redbull22. 05. 2014 20:27:03

Fantastic super-congratulations

janez.novak22. 05. 2014 22:46:39

I'll never go there, but I'm curious: did you go from the larches right under Little Altar and is snake tongue between Altar and VMP, or do you have to go to Little first and then to Great. Of course I have to praise you for the excellent tour, in these conditions with such temperature, soft snow and great objective difficulty. I was already happy to reach the larches yesterday, someone is happy at the upper waterfall - everything is relative.

dolenjka&primorc22. 05. 2014 23:00:03

Bravo. Congratulations! cool

koma23. 05. 2014 00:18:12

I completely agree with what's written above..

Snake tongue is the passage between Altar and VMP. From larches we cross right to scree under the wall of Altar on the path to MMP. Right after the wall of Altar we can climb left over steep step directly to the top of ST, or cross further to MMP and only before north wall of VMP turn left up scree to top of ST. To the top no big problems, then follows approx 150m steep terrain to the notch leading to ridge between Altar and VMP. Then another approx 100m ascent on the ridge to Altar.

voluhar11. 06. 2014 16:12:53

http://tomazsarc.blogspot.com/2014/06/veliki-oltar-862014.html

(+3)

dolenjka&primorc11. 08. 2014 14:15:24

Yesterday on Great Altar via northwest ridge from Krnica. After spending the night in bivouac I we continued along Velika Dnina cirque towards connecting ridge between VMP and GO. In Velika Dnina there's still quite some snow, so crampons and ice axe not superfluous. Anyway we two crossed it yesterday in conditions without using them. From entry to connecting ridge and first on NW ridge no more snow. To notch of Snake Tongue the rock is "typically martuljek" zavijanje z očmi

..continuation further on NW ridge to summit of Great Altar is pure enjoyment. Way too quick the ridge ends. We descended to Na Jezerih cirque and via express scree to Poldov rovt in Vrata. Weather to shout for. It was nice nasmeh

pics and comment:
https://picasaweb.google.com/108848352133301199732/VelikiOltarPoSeverozahodnemGrebenu10082014?authkey=Gv1sRgCN6Aj9e30sH2WA#

(+1)

jedriličar11. 08. 2014 14:26:33

Nice ... congratulations ..... I'd like to do it too ... mežikanje

(+1)

dolenjka&primorc11. 08. 2014 14:32:51

Thanks. Returning congratulations for the ascent of Široka peč mežikanje

We two would also like to go there ... velik nasmeh

jedriličar11. 08. 2014 14:46:37

No problem ... now I know the route ... I'll lead you ... mežikanje

dolenjka&primorc11. 08. 2014 15:30:11

Ok. We two take you to Altar via SW ridge ... mežikanje

janez.novak27. 09. 2014 23:16:23

I have one question: is the mountain to the right of Great Martuljek Ponca the Altar - or to the left of Škrlatica the High Rokav?

Viper28. 09. 2014 08:42:56

On the picture from left to right: Velika Martuljška Ponca, Oltar, Visoki Rokav and Škrlatica.

janez.novak29. 09. 2014 18:16:22

Thanks for the confirmation!

Macesna30. 09. 2014 23:44:20

On Sunday afternoon we head to Vrata (where there was incredible traffic, like in some seaside resort in the middle of the season) and along the Rdeči potok to bivouac II, where we spend the night. We meet some descending hikers, then for about 25 hours no human soul in sight anymore. We don't complain at all. Millions of stars shine in the night sky, down here the silent wall of Martuljške mountains surrounds us.
The next day we ascend to Oltar. The path has no special features, no snow. We reach the summit via the slab a bit below the top. Then we descend towards the Oltar - Visoki Rokav notch, but we are too late to continue, as we overslept in the morning. The descent to the valley is hot, the sun reflector is on maximum, so the stream in the forest seems like a beneficial oasis in the middle of the desert.