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Veliki Oltar

Jany1. 10. 2014 08:13:53

Bravo. Only for the chosen ones, I'd say.

lijaneja1. 07. 2015 21:56:45

Nothing happening? This year I'm the 13th registered, but no comments yet.
In the morning chill cheerfully past the closed hut in Krnica. The joy ended soon, as the streambed is completely dry and thus very difficult progress. At 1800 I peek from the scrub, snow is past here too. Luckily at bivouac height it starts and with shorter intervals snow eases the path to the start of the connecting ridge. Here the stories repeat for me, just like at Sp. Rokav - always different approach. Rocks are dry and the summit was there like a blink. Again mists teased me a bit, which I deeply bowed to on return.
Wondering if maybe someone knows how 2 to 5 cubic meters of completely fresh large rocks got on the path or right next to it about five minutes before the path to Špik sharply turns left.
A few pictures follow.

Šplevta, Razor and Prisojnik in the morning sun. VMP also shows outlines.

For me the most beautiful side of that mighty mountain.

Kukova špica, Škrnatarica and Dovški križ. In front Široka peč.

From Kotla there was constant smoke and it partially obscured Visoki Rokav.

When I retire, I will change my home address

Both Ponci and today's host in front of the hut in Krnica.

(+18)

strikan13. 07. 2015 10:07:16

On Saturday to Oltar. Ascent from Velika dnina to the saddle between VMP and Oltar and along the ridge to the summit, descent to Jezera and past bivouac to Vrata.

(+12)

ejti13. 07. 2015 15:40:56

Bravo, team!

(+1)

Filip_Zagreb9. 11. 2015 00:24:59

wondering if it's possible to descend to Velika dnina, are there anchors for abseil? Would climb from Velika dnina to Oltar, leave car in Krnica then have to return same way...what's that descent path like? Thanks for answer

JusAvgustin9. 11. 2015 06:16:46

Yes. Actually you only need one, or maybe not even that. In the entry gully below the detail there's an anchor of two profile bars. Half pitch higher there's an auxiliary rope fixed in two pegs in the rock on the left. In the lower part of the ridge there's only one bolt, higher up two pegs. At least that's how I remember it. http://www.hribi.net/izlet/ruski_kriz_veliki_oltar_po_sz_grebenu/1/7/4631

Safe ascent and descent.

(+4)

Filip_Zagreb9. 11. 2015 07:04:20

Thanks Juš nasmeh

on Thursday I'd go up

andrejp9. 11. 2015 13:41:59

upper part of Dnine is in snow and last 30m below Altar summit is hard packed snow...can bypass it on rock, easier with crampons...enjoy

(+1)

Filip_Zagreb9. 11. 2015 13:51:22

is overnight stay possible in Krnica, i.e. is there a winter room in the hut?

andrejp thanks a lot nasmeh

andrejp9. 11. 2015 13:56:35

hm, not sure, if I got the warden right the hut is open Fri to Sun, at least it was this weekend...why not sleep in the bivouac, which is nicely equipped for overnighting

(+1)

Filip_Zagreb9. 11. 2015 15:03:33

I'd overnight in the bivouac at the end, thanks for the advice nasmeh

andrejp9. 11. 2015 15:43:58

super..enjoy

(+1)

mukica17. 07. 2016 06:53:39

Yesterday from Poldanov rov towards Rdeči potok on nicely marked pathless trail towards Jezera to check if new bivouac is up, sadly not yet in season. Continue to Altar. We stick mostly left, cairns guide us nicely to the summit, which doesn't have many visitors. Views from top are really unique, wind and cold prevented longer enjoyment nasmeh

Descent by ascent route, before that visit Šplevta.

Beautiful views of the surrounding peaks

Carefully .... well-marked passages with cairns

The peak on the right is our destination

(+9)

pikpok18. 07. 2016 06:54:22

We too yesterday to Altar but from Krnica. Winter gear stayed in backpack, only some used ice axe for entry to climbing part of path. Descent to Vrata, as in the throat we didn't find the right passage and didn't have enough rope for all to rappel if we'd go wrong one (some snow too!)

(+5)

Filip_Zagreb26. 07. 2016 13:07:18

does anyone know when they'll set up the new bivouac II? Thanks for reply.
Best,

Filip

palček plezalček26. 07. 2016 14:27:50

http://www.pzs.si/koce.php?pid=56

(+1)

mukica26. 07. 2016 18:04:38

Somewhere I read that in September, if it's true I don't know.

(+2)

funnyboy10. 08. 2016 21:29:45

Nice day in the mountains nasmeh

http://primozgraheljsblog.blogspot.si/2016/08/najvisji-vrh-martuljske-skupine-veliki.html

(+2)

mito300028. 08. 2016 15:39:17

From Vrata along nicely traceable path over Brinje to Altar summit. Plenty of cairns along the path easing orientation issues. At summit lovely peace and crazy views. Back via express scree offering me at least fun and fast descent.