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Zeleniške špice

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dprapr1. 09. 2017 07:40:55
Bravo, Zlatko. I kinda feel guilty. The last pic is the icing on the cake.
(+2)like
stankoju1. 09. 2017 09:01:36
A few of my pics from yesterday's tour. Description already given by Zlatko.
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rozka3. 09. 2017 09:07:22
Congratulations, Zlatko & Co, for the tournasmeh; reading your description, I relived the traverse and how I was "freaking out" toozadregamežikanje
Yeah, yeah, the "apartment" needs to be reserved in advance, hahaaa velik nasmeh
lpnasmeh
(+5)like
ŠpRo2917. 09. 2018 16:49:08
We two also traversed them yesterday. Nice day, wonderful views and real poetry up there. Glad we had the rope with us.
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Shkaro27. 06. 2019 22:23:02
On Tuesday (25.06.2019) we had to go to the Alps. The decision quickly fell on Zeleniške spires and so we were at Jermanci around 6 am and packed our backpacks. We set off well and got to the V Klinu area and turned right onto an unmarked trail. We got confused and went towards the hunting hut under Kamniški Dedec. Here we were on the right side of Repov Kot, but we should have been on the left side velik nasmeh We followed the path which quickly joins the correct path through Repov kot and soon we reach the pool where we wash and drink water. From two gullies we choose the left one to climb a bit before the ridge. We reach the ridge under Staničev vrh through scree velik nasmeh From Staničev vrh part of the team descends, part abseils. Orientation on the ridge is logical and there are cairns and occasionally a beaten path. Nebeška lojtra [is] wonderful climbing pleasure. There are quite a few crumbly parts and one needs to be careful. We reach the Highest edge of Zeleniške spires and descend to Srebrno sedlo and decide to go to Planjava. We reach Planjava quickly and just as quickly to the hut at Kamniško sedlo for cold Laško. From Planjava to Kamniško sedlo there are 3 small snow patches which can be passed without winter gear, but one needs to be careful. From the saddle to Jermanci path without special features. Nicely utilized day in KS nasmeh

Short visual record of the path -> https://www.relive.cc/view/2481275010
Morning on Jermanca and view towards the ridge1
Steep ascent in the direction of Kamniški Dedec2
Snapshot from the hunting trail3
Pools... ideal for washing and bathing :)4
From there onwards in the left gully5
View from the scree below Staničev vrh towards the saddle and Planjava6
Breaking through the scree :D7
Magnificent Staničev vrh8
Magnificent ridge of Zeleniške špice9
At moments we were in a cloud which was ideal because it was hoooot10
Climbing the spires11
Wonderful ambience12
Past the window towards Srebrno sedlo13
Glimpse on the path to Planjava14
View from the summit of Planjava15
In the realm of the chamois16
View of the snowfield to be crossed and Kamniško sedlo17
One of the snowfields to cross on the path from Planjava to Kamniško sedlo18
Finally, well-deserved Laško and view of Brana19
The whole group at Kamniško sedlo :)20
(+8)like
Dr_Ursic18. 05. 2020 21:04:51
From Kamniška Bistrica we drive towards Jermanci - our starting point.
On the way to Kamniško sedlo, at the sign for Kamniško sedlo, we turn right onto pathless terrain (well visible path) towards Repov kot. When we reach Tolmunčki we continue another 2 minutes, where the path branches right (marked with cairn) towards the gully leading to Staničev vrh - start of traversing the ridge of Zeleniške spires all the way to their Highest peak. On the ridge itself there are many ascents and descents to the spires. Climbing difficulty is mostly I-II, somewhere up to III degree. Overall the "nebeška lojtra" chimney is quite demanding but the rock is good with plenty of holds.
From the top of Zeleniške spires we continued to Planjava and then descended to Kamniško sedlo.
Starting point Jermanca - view towards the ridge of Zeleniške špice.1
On the path in Repov kot.2
Tolmunčki in Repov kot.3
About 2 minutes after Tolmunčki, the path turns right (marked with a figure).4
View of the gully towards Staničev vrh.5
in the gully6
View back7
view towards Planjava8
view towards Kamniški Dedec9
Further towards Staničev vrh.10
View back11
Staničev vrh - start of traversing the ridge of Zeleniške špice.12
Prepared anchor on Stanič for abseil from it if needed.13
View of the descent from Stanič.14
View back to Stanič and continuation of the path under the next ridge.15
View ahead on the ridge16
Entrance to the nebeško lojtro marked with III17
In the chimney nebeška lojtra18
View back19
View back20
At the top of the nebeška lojtra21
view towards Lučki Dedec22
Descent to the col23
View back24
View of the final ascent towards the summit of Zeleniške špice - up the central gully of the right rock25
Highest summit of Zeleniške špice26
Descent from the highest summit and onwards along the ridge to the second summit of Zeleniške špice27
2nd summit28
Directly ahead towards Planjava and view of the climbed ridge of Zeleniške špice29
towards Planjava30
Planjava31
Description of the ridge difficulty - I borrowed the image from the plezanje.net website32
(+11)like
Gipsy25. 05. 2020 14:11:02
Hi,

is the path completely dry?

Thanks and best, G
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Dr_Ursic26. 05. 2020 06:35:14
Gipsy.
Yes the path is completely dry all the way to Planjava. On the descent from Planjava there were 2 small snow patches, which didn't require winter gear. Probably those are gone now too.

LPD
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parenzo26. 05. 2020 08:24:32
David, congrats.
If I see correctly from photo 15: for next time I recommend, after descent from Stanič, from the saddle straight up to the next tower. It's much nicer, easier and also "safer" than that traverse below it.
(+1)like
Dr_Ursic26. 05. 2020 22:05:06
Parenzo thanks for INFO. We'll try next time.
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Volk27. 05. 2020 21:28:31
Through Repov kot under Stanič. Descent to Zelenica and from it deep above Bela. Left into orientationally tricky traverse of the southern slopes of Zeleniške spires. This time instead of descent to Šraj pesek, back towards the ridge ...
Through pronounced gully into the unknown. High right didn't go, left did!nasmeh
To the Zeleniške ridge I approach also under 'Nebeška lojtra'. Downclimbing towards Stanič quite demanding. Up to it goes easier.velik nasmeh

In short, full-blooded taste of wilderness.

Best.
highland that gives the name ...1
One of the key passages ...2
For me? ...3
This time up ...4
So I remember ...5
Crossing ...6
Main ridge from the side path ...7
It was squeezing me going down ...8
Proud ...9
Forever ...10
(+16)like
zokipoki27. 05. 2020 23:16:36
Tough tour, nice passage and nice ledge! The furrowed heads of the spires are like petrified living beings! Best
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Volk28. 05. 2020 08:57:18
Indeed, petrified living beings in such a world are not lacking.

Best.
(+1)like
janezs7314. 07. 2020 21:47:22
Yesterday with colleague across Zeleniške spires. Gorgeous day, 4h pure enjoyment - we stuck to the ridge. I agree with the opinion that along the ridge is easiest and above all most compact - everything else is better or worse quarry approximation. So we did all major and minor towers (one small tower omitted). With rope we descended 2x, from Staničev vrh and from the penultimate tower. First time more for familiarization, second for necessity. Still I don't recommend the tour to anyone without rope and essential belay gear - you never know where it breaks. Worth noting that the only easy retreat is actually along the ridge to the end. Only in the last part there are some easier bypasses. In the beginning and middle everything around is harder.
Return through Repov kot - upper part typical quarry - everything just waiting to knock your balance jezen - at least you know what to pay for the pleasure on the ridge velik nasmeh
(+5)like
janezs7315. 07. 2020 09:16:53
why skip it, it's such a nice climb and the only serious descent velik nasmeh
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Dr.ejči20. 10. 2020 20:48:42
Part 1, without intro and conclusion. Something like that, I'd briefly describe Sunday's (ad)venture.velik nasmeh
This time I start at Dedcu...intro, Rigeljc, skip...1
...straight head down...2
...quite old peg, for abseil right...3
...I prefer to go left, on the slabby ramp...4
...awkwardly smooth, so I go with assistance...5
...by the left larch you would abseil, by the right ones the ramp is visible...6
...then shock follows!...locals, I presume, since my last visit, have built a highway..7
...but fortunately only to the start of the climbing part8
...a look back...9
...first detail...reverse, smooth II...10
...ahead then, the most compact section...11
...shame it's so short...12
...interesting, step into the wall...13
...towards the narrowest part...14
...meanwhile Dec gets a visit...15
...delicate descent...16
...follows the scrambling sector...17
...not even some swimming swing is missed...18
...isolated...19
...d bulge...straight over it, raw III!...20
...that is unfeasible...21
...left airy step-over, right down under larch into traverse (easier)...22
...left for next time...23
...rather went along the ledge to the right...24
...to the end of the spur...25
...then left, down into a longer traverse below the summits...26
...bypassed, quite overgrown summits...27
...view back to the spur...28
...back up to the ridge...29
...before the last, overgrown section...30
...take a coffee time...31
...scree traverse to the right to the last, really exhausting part...32
...the dwarf still holds...33
...obviously little visited...found a lost saw case from three years ago...34
...the weather is turning...35
...final ascent to the path junction towards Kovačnica...36
...sawn legendary branch under Stanič...37
...weather deters me from the summit (Staničev vrh), so I join the Croatian colleague instead...38
...going home as they are already taking my picture up there.39
(+17)like
palček plezalček21. 10. 2020 12:07:59
Superca, nice nasmeh. Also my wish with intro and conclusion.
(+2)like
JusAvgustin21. 10. 2020 17:42:55
Šodr skill level: GOD!
(+2)like
lijaneja21. 10. 2020 18:19:44
Very clear, Andrej! You've inspired me for next year. How much further to Stanič?
(+2)like
Dr.ejči22. 10. 2020 08:38:44
Well, what do I know, Tone?...at the top of the collapsed gully I was, so some 20-30 min to the top?
(+1)like
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