Urbban - Recent messages

Well others too of course.. even Slovenians have left a mark in these walls, this was for example the ascent chosen as the best Slovenian in foreign mountains in 1995: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hn8hJEAD0S4

With 60m rope you do a 30m descent - with 30m rope only 15m. That's too little, need 60m rope.

Hi,

does anyone know if there's still snow or how much snow there is on the path through Repov kot to Srebrno sedlo; has anyone been around there in the last few days?

But don't take this path during or after rain or in morning dew - it has some slightly steeper sections where it's good if the grass is dry.

Even more important than the decision on using one or two ice axes on a certain slope is that the mountaineer has enough practice of self-arresting with ice axe behind him. Before every winter season. For Turski Gully one ice axe suffices. With two it's, if nothing else, awkward to self-arrest in case of slip, since one ice axe is in the way.

The path to Turska Peak is trampled from the Žmavčar side, from Turski Gully I think yesterday there were still no tracks. That it's trampled of course needs to be taken with reserve, since wind partly erases tracks. Watch the last half hour of ascent - locally there are cornices on the ridge. Good luck!

Pegs in the route are few, but the rock is such that placing protection isn't hard. The route itself isn't difficult - in the climbing sense, but of course it's an alpinistic ascent. Orientation isn't hard either. The rock is very good for our mountains. At the top you're not even half done - the descent is a story of its own. Harder than up is actually getting down - the terrain all the time is on the border between downclimbing and abseiling, the rock orange, crumbly. Some abseil stations are made, I don't know what condition they are in. Good luck!

Incredible, it's mid-June yet according to pic 9 the same or even less snow in the hills than last year mid-Aug. At least regarding the gully to Široka peč. Attaching pics from 13 Aug 2021 (nearly 2 months later!).

The old one had much fewer visitors, and as for unwanted visitors, there probably weren't any at all.

I mean that the (new) bivouac itself is not to blame for the blankets disappearing, but the "flowerbed" of people that it attracts as an attractive bivouac.

For easy passage through Hudičev žleb, a really good winter is needed. Decades ago, when winters were rich in snow, even beginners from climbing courses entered the route, but not anymore. Despite moderate grade (III), if there is not enough snow, the gully is impassable. Attaching two photos from two years ago (e.g., record snow season at Kredarica). Just before the end of the gully, maybe 50m from the top, the gully was blocked by a huge boulder, below a cca 5-6m unclimbable overhang; with more snow, the boulder would be covered and no problem. The second pic nicely shows that the slope is completely moderate - from the Vršič road, the gully looks really steep, but inside it is not so bad.

Čopov steber has already recorded at least 50 solo repetitions, the first among them the still-living Janez Zorko, a unique phenomenon is of course Filip Bence - "the Black One", who once soloed it almost every year.

But there's an interesting descent description on the attached plezanje.net page, I myself wouldn't even think of going over Velika Baba.

By far the easiest is descent to the right (when you come out of the gully into easier terrain). You bypass Ledinski vrh and descend to the hut on Ledine. Vast majority descend that way.

I was alone at the Saddle over the weekend; snow patch still too big to bypass safely without winter gear. Good luck!

The cave in Pastirica pics is the start of climbing route Zatišje grade VII, so no one thinks it's a "passage" to Staničev vrh...

As Parenzo wrote before me, abseil piste from Stanič summit leads back to cave too.

Also the winter grade (according to the Winter Ascents guidebook) is III/4, 900m.

Regardless of the conditions in which the ascent was done - especially in winter alpinism conditions can vary from one extreme to another - the principle applies that the grades of the climbed route are not changed.

Congrats on the nice ascent!

Last Saturday with cloudy weather parking lot was full (not packed). So this weekend with great forecast surely crowd at parking, as always on nice spring days in Vipava Valley.