lojze1825 - Recent messages

Thanks everyone. On picture six it surely blew so hard that the photographer leaned a bit too much and exaggerated the steepness
The same goes for pics from the top. Taking pics with mobile without gloves is not very pleasant, so not many pics from the top
But the views were, especially at sunrise, really incredible.

Yesterday, 9.2, on Jalovec. Start at 3 a.m. from Planica. At junction of summer path to Kotovo sedlo, old avalanche debris covered with fresh snow, tricky to walk. Further on quite postholed for walkers, almost whole time through the couloir to exit. Winter chimney not done, so normal approach. Some snow here and there, but no problems. Ridge without peculiarities, here and there you must scratch the rock because poorly covered. On top around 9 a.m. Conditions on summit part were super, also on descent. Really nice for pics. Only wind was for pop.... Return without peculiarities. Nice day.

When they cash in, the road is municipal; when winter maintenance is needed, it's state.

Thanks for info. The wall somehow pulls you left. Hope now it's clearer for repeaters where the anchors are.

Yesterday we did the ridge traverse starting from Jasna. Quite exposed and crumbly. If you have 2x60m rope, no problems anywhere, if you have 1x60m then read on.

First rappel from Rušica, anchor on bolts a couple meters below the slings in the bushes, hidden behind rock, ca 20m
Second rappel, anchor on bolts on nice ledge, can't miss it, ca 20-25m
Third rappel past the window, anchor on bolts at the end of the spur after the second rappel, ca 20m

From Vrh nad Rušo we have abundance of anchors, see picture. First anchor on one bolt and two pitons. With 1x60m from here you won't reach the 4th anchor on bolts. Second anchor on three pitons, a bit annoying to reach it, crumbly. Third anchor just one piton and old sling, don't recommend. If anything add a piton and new sling, we didn't use it. 4th anchor on bolts, from there another 20m to ground.
When descending you have to stay quite right, towards Martuljek side. Don't ask me how I know where all anchors are and where to rappel.

Now just hope the rope doesn't get stuck when you pull it down.

Thanks to both.

No, we didn't go through Bukovska korita. We followed the direction marked with 1 on the picture or footsteps over Črni vrh. Down in the forest there's another hut, not sure if it's really hunting or weekend.

On Saturday, 10.8.24, we set out to check if this is really the nicest Slovenian ridge. Start at 6am in Bavšica, from where we head via pl. Bale towards the top of Osojnik, where the sun greets us after some fight with spiders. Here a quick pause to gear up and then full gas to the ridge. Most of the time we stick to the ridge, but every now and then we have to bypass some difficult section. On Veliki Pihavec after about 1h. Descent to the belay for abseil, where someone left a sling. A static would have been a better choice.
At the abseil I check the smooth rock for climbing in the opposite direction. By feel say V, some 4-5m, but in this section there are already at least four pegs for protection.
On Mali Pihavec again strictly along the ridge, although the grasses to the right don't look as impassable as in the pictures.

After some more ridge walking over a few intermediate tops we reach Obljak after some fight with scrub. Now only the supposedly very tricky descent awaits us. We go directly south straight through the scrub, which turned out to be a good decision as lower down we find good passages that somehow open up by themselves. When the grasses end (we didn't use the ice axe ) and the first trees appear we already thought we were out of the worst, but we were sorely mistaken. Personally, the hardest and most orientationally tricky part for me was the middle section after the end of the grasses and before reaching the beech forest. We try to stay right but the (steep) passages in the sparse forest force us left. A bit lower we descend a little via the grassy gully and even lower we pick up the outlines of a path that leads us quite far right and we're already in the beech forest. From here on we can breathe easy, as there are practically no difficulties left, although there's still quite a bit of descent. We exit at the hunting hut and then lower past the cableway and PUS Bavšica.

The ridge is unique, scenic and beautiful. The descent is completely unnecessary. I don't know if it's the nicest in Slovenia, but I certainly agree with Prle that the Bavški end is a dream ridge area.

Yesterday, 30.7.24, I traversed the ridge from Prevala over Lopa to Velika Črnelska. That narrowest part didn't even seem narrow to me, almost the scrambling along the ridge to that point seemed harder (exposure).
To Lopa without problems, the passages offer themselves.
On the descent from Hudi vršič I complicated my life a bit and made a big detour
Ascent to Črnelska practically only on grass that was still wet, but no problems. Tufts of grass are excellent holds.
Followed only by too hot descent back on the marked path.

Today, 28.6.24, on VMP, ice axe and rope with me, both stayed in backpack. Snow still in red gully, avoided it lower, marked on pic borrowed from post above.
Upper chimney no issues. Belay station really huge

Thanks redbul & palček plezalček, it really was a mega tour.

Starko_zel yeah probably we met a few times on the path, last on the summit. We chose a little detour for the return

On Saturday, 9.9.23, via Dogna and then across the glacier to the Montaž summit. No issues on the path itself. At bivak Muschi, across the gully almost a stream flows, so left across the belly, where it is not even that demanding. Further, very enjoyable scrambling where the joy ends too soon. At Suringar, solitude ends and we fall into the crowd. Extension to Cima Verde and return via Amalia, where again no problems on the path. Only an extra long descent back to Dunja amid sunset colors. Great experience in the Western Julians.

Lower jump is dry, was last weekend.

Thanks. At first I thought from Konjska škrbina at least to Mali bedinji vrh, but peaks already fully in clouds. Will wait for another time.

On Saturday 3.9., variant traverse of the northern part of Loška stena. From Bavšica over pl. Bala first to Plešivec. Then along the ridge ahead to Bavh and to the lowest point under Bedinji vrh which I bypassed below on easier terrain. Ascent to Morež over "Miheličeva polica" and direct to top, descent along the ridge to Konjska škrbina. Continued descent to Lepoč then traverse past Stador to path for Bricelj and back to valley.
Grasses in the morning still a bit wet but ascent to Morež all dry, otherwise nothing special. No snakes in sight

Yesterday, 13.8.22, traversed this ridge. Start at Belopeška Lakes, then over Middle and Rear Ponca, Strug and Vevnica towards Mangart. In this direction in my opinion much easier along the ridge towards Vevnica. From the saddle before Strug to the top someone installed ca 100m prusik, which isn't even needed. On the ridge all descriptions mention and old pegs indicate retreating to the Italian side for difficulties, while actually sometimes easiest directly along the ridge or even Slovenian side, just gotta search a bit. Ferrata to Vevnica in solid condition, on one tricky passage prusik added for help. From Bivacco Busettini then over grasses towards Mangart, where needed to watch out a bit due to scree on grassy ledges.