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Illimani (6439 m). Prestigious ascent of the Bolivian giant, 28 - 30 May 2025.

Haven't been posting much (read: nothing) on the portal lately, and the reason isn't a lack of interesting routes - simply with a ton of work, time flies by and turns current into past.
This time it's worth making an exception. After successfully breaking the magical 5000m barrier last year in the Georgian Caucasus with my partner, we set a goal one step higher and planned a (work-)touristic-mountaineering trip to Peru and Bolivia with an ascent of a six-thousander at the end. Based on gathered info, the well-known and popular Huayna Potosi (6088 m) seemed most suitable - I didn't even think of the famous Illimani, champion of Cordillera Real. But sudden changes are sometimes very welcome.

After 11 days of tourist wandering and simultaneous acclimatization to the thinner air of Andean heights, where we exceeded five thousand once and four thousand several times, mostly staying at altitudes between good 3400 (Cusco) and 3870 m (Puno), it was time for the trip's highlight, ascent of one of the six-thousanders from La Paz. The latter is one of Bolivia's capitals and a city that with its less prestigious historical bedroom, now independent million-strong El Alto, with average altitude from cca. 4050 m onwards the world's highest-lying large city, forms the central metropolis of the Andean highlands.

Mountaineering is big business in La Paz; if in the Peruvian counterpart Cusco tourist offerings are primarily tied to discovering Inca heritage and easier mountain walks, the somewhat more chaotic La Paz is the starting point for many more adrenaline-fueled or grand endeavors like downhill mountain biking on the "Death Road" or ascents of Bolivia's highest peaks including Sajama, Illimani, Illampu and finally Huayna Potosi. The latter, due to proximity to La Paz, six dedicated mountain huts below it, and relative straightforwardness and ease of approach, is undoubtedly the most popular six-thousander in the wider area, if not the entire Andes, and numerous city travel agencies compete to bring more clients to the summit, who tackle the mountain in groups of fifteen, and the summit reportedly sees up to a hundred people on best days.
We didn't fancy joining guided masses at all, as we had full mountaineering and expedition gear with us, logistics for independent ascent were quite complicated, and we didn't have time for more than one such high-altitude trip - and so based on suggestions from local guides the die fell on a much more ambitious and prestigious goal: Illimani, "guardian of La Paz", which features in the background of every panorama of La Paz and El Alto, the highest peak of Cordillera Real and Bolivia's second highest after Sajama.

Regardless of route choice, ascent of Pico Sur, the highest summit of the massive mountain with numerous spurs, is a demanding and grand undertaking, which due to access complexity (including five-hour drive with 4x4 on deadly sheer proverbially destroyed Bolivian roads), expedition requirements and difficulty of the final ascent without long preparations is practically impossible to tackle privately; like all others with recorded ascents we heard of or met, we hired a local guide in La Paz for the ascent. This is currently especially favorable for Europeans due to sad conditions and financial crisis in Bolivia, as euro value more than doubles on exchange; worth considering returning at least part to the poor local community. Unlike larger agencies offering more comfort, porters and varied food, we chose a smaller family agency with excellent guide German, who proved himself with guiding experience and terrain knowledge; due to highlighted personal experiences and prior equipment, we paid substantially lower rate for two than usual, otherwise street bargaining rules here as in most dealings in Bolivia.
While crowds pour onto Huayna Potosi daily, Illimani much more rarely sees an ascent, which among locals is considered especially prestigious.


As for the trip: most opt for three- to four-day packages, we went for three-day. First day after long drive acclimatize at base camp (cca. 4470 m), second day gradual ascent to over a thousand meters higher high camp called Condor's Nest (Nido de Cóndores; and no, no condors seen ). Ascent through fairly varied terrain is mostly easy, only last part steepens with some ridge climbing up to higher I grade (if not picky, we touched poor II); latter mainly problematic due to weight of backpacks with camping gear at significant altitude, but seeing skillful cholitas as porters climbing rocks with big loads in modest footwear gives some extra energy.
High camp sits on flat slab in side ridge with quite limited space, but due to relatively low traffic offers enough room for enthusiasts' tents. Wandering around camp limited due to sheer terrain and icy surface, crampons needed for safe walking.

Summit ascent starts in early morning - night - hours of third day. We started around 1:15 to 1 a.m. after scant rest with no more than half hour sleep in ice-cold night, which showed in upper part of ascent. Initially steep up exposed icy ridge, followed by airy traverse at places to west slope of highest summit. Head to glacier terrain needing much care due to crevasses, and increasingly steeply and exposed up the slope. At cca. 6200 m reach key section, approx. 100m high snow passage known as "heavenly ladder" reaching 45-50° mostly; we got lucky with good conditions, with scant snow difficulty increases significantly here, contributing to many accidents.
After key section easier upper part, but altitude and fatigue from long ascent already strongly felt; partner had much trouble with acclimatization and ascended only at urging of me and guide, my step too despite lack of breathing issues became harder due to sleeplessness and altitude and with increasing effort we slowly dragged to summit. Ascent usually takes six to nine hours; we stood on summit just after sunrise after about six and a half hours walking as first ascenders of the day. Despite exhaustion and biting cold, feeling on sheer summit with indescribable views in clear day was ecstatic. Stayed on top about half hour. Already heavily spent I then led the group in a state of grumpy half-awakeness through demanding terrain to high camp, which we reached at 11 a.m. with utmost efforts; meanwhile sun started burning on frostbitten bodies, weakening them further and slowing step. After short break packed tents and set off to base camp, me still in near dream state; descent long but without issues. Back to La Paz and well-deserved beer in evening hours, recovery lasted until enjoyable descent of Death Road as last act in Bolivia two days later.

In conclusion, as probably evident from text, this ascent is a serious and grand undertaking requiring much experience, adaptation and prior acclimatization, at least basic alpinism knowledge needed. Ideal to ascend Huayna Potosi or at least some easier 5300 m+ peaks beforehand for high altitude familiarization and psychophysical prep, many of which (e.g. Chacaltaya or Pico Austria) tourist agencies in La Paz guide for modest 10-25 euros. We didn't have time for that, but I was relatively well acclimatized due to long prior stay at 3300 to over 4000 m with some higher ascents, including tourist ascent of Rainbow Mountain over 5000 m.


Finally some drier data:

- current conditions in Bolivia - at least La Paz and countryside - despite upheavals still quite safe, avoid El Alto or Santa Cruz de la Sierra, which is general rule anyway. Peru much more hospitable and one level better organized, though with its peculiarities;
- to acclimatization greatly helped numerous tourist ascents on first visit: Humantay lake with ascent to high point in ridge above (~4300 m), exploring Inca ruins above Cusco to cca. 3900 m and unbearably popular mass-visited ascent of 5036 m Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca), after which with easy climbing (I, following guanaco tracks) I reached viewpoint near 5060 m. Red Valley nearby very worth visit. In between descended to Machu Picchu and ascended airy popular Huayna Picchu (2693 m) above it, but didn't negatively affect altitude readiness much;
- very need to be careful with water and food use in both Peru and Bolivia; I suffered certain health issues most of trip, including digestive problems and sore throat. On Illimani ascent due to cold reaching -15 with occasional strong wind gusts, despite multiple gloves and socks got frostbite on one finger requiring ER visit back in Slovenia, and some time needed to restore toes mobility. Precisely cold besides moderate technical difficulty and altitude is one of main challenges of Illimani ascent;
- though high season in Bolivian highlands runs June to September, i.e. Andean winter south of equator, conditions for ascent already end of May in dry weather quite optimal with substantial snow, which there starts around 5500 m usually, and still relatively long days. Oh yeah, it was cold.

Trip that started with swim in Pacific at Lima ended with enjoyable Death Road descent, felt like reward for successful Illimani ascent; latter will likely long remain personal mountaineering milestone.

PS: fewer pics this time due to night ascent, effort to keep fingers and cold draining phone batteries almost empty on summit.

PS2: bit on mountain height. Various sources give Pico Sur as Illimani highest 6438, 6439, 6442 or even 6460 and 6462 m, latter too much. I followed official maps all advocating "modest" 6439 m; personal altimeter showed 6442 m.

To conclude my wanderings on a short return to Innsbruck - where the main goal this time was picking up the bike - the day after finishing the Karwendel crossing I finally climbed the fairly well-known three-thousander Nederkogel, which despite last year's successful season remained unconquered and rises high above the famous ski-mountaineering center Sölden. Despite fatigue, a long evening watching the European football championship final and morning commitments in the city that called for a more afternoon ascent, I had to make use of the last preparation day before the weather worsened - walks around the Tyrolean capital just aren't the same without ascending one of the three-thousanders in the Stubai or Ötztal Alps; last year there were about twenty, Nederkogel is this year's first.

Since I got to know the Stubai Alps pretty well last year, and mostly avoided the Ötztal ones except for Wildspitze, Similaun, Fineilspitze and Hoher Geige, after a two-hour train and bus ride - because of bike transport I was carless in Tyrol this time - at 11am I set off from the outskirts of Zwieselstein village near Sölden towards the summit 1500m higher.

From the start at Zwieselstein Sahnestüberl bus stop I reached the scenic pasture Lenzenalm in under half an hour on a pleasant forest trail, had a coffee there and continued on the still easy trail, where - oh so Tyrolean! - cows asserted right of way, so I often had to go around. With ever better views especially on peaks above the Obergurgl-Hochgurgl ski center, after a pleasant trail in just over an hour from the pasture I arrived at the junction to Neder lake and Nederkogel summit.
I used the five-minute side trip to the cute lake to leave some unnecessary stuff for the final ascent there and scoped out the continuation to the summit about 700m higher, which looks deceptively short due to the huge cross on top.
A bit before 2pm I headed for the summit, which first winds through gravel terrain then steeply climbs to the scenic northern ridge of Nederkogel.
Here the still somewhat demanding path continues over characteristic granite boulders ever higher above the lake valley on the east side of the mountain. Along the way I crossed some harmless snow patches, about 100m below the summit on advice of a trio of passersby to avoid tricky summer snow on the western ridge where the excellently marked path steeply turns, I crossed to crumbly slopes on the eastern flank. Through fairly loose terrain I climbed to old markings of the unmarked route over eastern cliffs of Nederkogel and via rocky slabs in nice II-degree climbing directly to the big cross on top (the final climbing can mostly be avoided but the crumbly terrain below summit where the east route once went is much more dangerous than the solid rock I took).
As Nederkogel stands as a steep sentinel over the central Ötztal range, summit views are splendid: it was enjoyable to gaze around and recall memories of last year's tours to Wildspitze, Hohe Geige, Similaun and Zuckerhütl clearly visible in the wonderful panorama, and the deep views to Sölden, Nedersee and Obergurgl-Hochgurgl ski center are beautiful too.

After longer stay on top around 4pm I carefully descended to the marked traverse path, where in the spirit of camaraderie shown by those ahead I helped a youngster with advice on the final ascent, then continued down over summit structure and north ridge of Nederkogel. A bit after half past five I was back at the lake at 2436m where I took a long break and planned the night - how I spent it maybe via other channels

In the morning in Zwieselstein village center, above which Nederkogel rises markedly 1700m higher, I caught the first morning bus to Ötztal Bahnhof and from there train to Innsbruck, same evening train on overnight trip to Ljubljana.

The fifth straight day of this year's Tyrol wanderings thus took me highest, though the tour wasn't too long or overly demanding; as long as no snow on west ridge (I had full winter gear but softened summer snow ascent over snowed ridge risky) and skip climbing finish, it's moderately demanding ascent needing about 4 hours walk from start. Maybe not easiest or most comfortable three-thousander nearby - Sulzkogel, Zischgeles or even Rinnenspitze in Stubais offer that - but in dry conditions I can recommend it to those without much experience at these heights.

Mont Blanc (4807 m):
Persistence, success and tragedy on the highest mountain of Western Europe

Last week my partner and I spent time in France to celebrate my 40th birthday, where after a first interrupted attempt at the beginning of the week we reached the highest point in the Alps for the second time.

The plan was a bit more ambitious - we were thinking of Mont Velan or even Grand Combin as acclimatization tours - but the availability of huts and weather conditions did not allow it, so we immediately headed towards Mont Blanc; although our previous wish was the route of the three peaks, due to unsuitable conditions on other routes we decided on the French normal route. Due to the disastrous forecast for Wednesday we had to postpone the planned ascent from Tete Rousse, two days before that we found new accommodation in the recently reopened sinfully expensive Goûter hut (basic overnight 70 EUR (-5 with mountain club card), dinner 53 EUR, breakfast 21 EUR), no running water for washing, while a liter bottle costs 7 EUR - but they open the kitchen for us, because one can calmly prepare a brought meal).
The main problem of the ascent to the Goûter hut is still the extremely dangerous crossing of the Grand Couloir [couloir>, because of which the huts on the normal route were closed for two weeks in August, but the situation in September with snowfall improved enough that the municipal authorities reopened the huts. The crossing is short - it is only a half-minute passage - and undemanding, but mentally exhausting, as was especially evident on the second attempt. In the continuation of the ascent we move on a not particularly steep terrain, where we climb with the help of cables or without them (mostly I, two places poor II).

The start of the ascent towards the summit took place in a calm and warm night, but after a bad hour of easy glacier walking the conditions quickly and surprisingly deteriorated, followed by a snowstorm and wind at 80-85 km/h, which drove us with a few other hikers into the Vallot bivouac (4362 m) somewhere halfway. There we waited almost three hours waiting for the expected improvement, which did not come; in complete whiteout we led another pair back to the hut and descended disappointed into the valley. At least as consolation we caught the penultimate train and a little earlier rode to the capital of Haute-Savoie, Annecy, where we spent the next few gloomier days, which we spiced up with an ascent of La Tourette (see post on the topic).

During our stay in Annecy on my 40th birthday we climbed the well-known and popular peak La Tournette, which rises like a mighty guardian above the attractive Lake Annecy (see separate post about this peak: https://www.hribi.net/trenutne_razmere/fra/la_tournette_2351_m_gorovje_bornes/10015/10123).
While walking we were thinking how to save the vacation in conditions that will change drastically after Wednesday's all-day rain or snowfall - do we climb the nearby Aiguille d'Argentière and Mont Dolent, the more distant Grand Combin or Mont Velan or even Ortler on the way home? We asked the appropriate services in Chamonix about the conditions on the Trois Monts route on Mont Blanc, which was our original wish, but received a warning and negative answer regarding the state of the route.
In the end the idea came that since we are already here and well acclimatized, let's try once more on the same route to the summit of the Western Alps. Fortunately we still got two places for Thursday overnight in the Goûter hut, Tete Rousse was completely booked.

Conditions changed drastically after Wednesday's front passage - the wall under Aiguille du Goûter, where the path to the hut leads and where on Sunday and Monday there was not even a handful of snow, was now almost entirely snow-covered and in a large part required climbing in crampons (which is otherwise usual for this ascent). A bigger problem was that Thursday's sun quickly melted the snow binding in the rocks of the upper part of the couloir, which represented an increased risk during the crossing. During our crossing everything still worked perfectly fine, but in the upper part of the wall, a good hour after our crossing of the key section, we saw a large avalanche in the couloir and heard terrible screams below us - we continued anxiously, at the hut we heard that unfortunately a person had died in it, at the place where there had already been quite a few - far too many - victims this year.
The next morning we started a little later than on Monday and quickly progressed past the Vallot bivouac and along the Bosses ridge. We reached the summit after about four hours, but progress on the final part of the ridge was made difficult by powerful gusts of wind in an otherwise extremely atmospheric morning that offered wonderful views. With the exception of the wind, which is a constant in this part, the conditions were excellent due to the newly fallen snow. That day we were among the first on the summit, but on the way back we met a considerable number of hikers, mostly with mountain guides.
After returning to the hut under the splendid backdrop of the play of sun and clouds we quickly descended across the wall under Goûter and with fear and a lump in the throat crossed the couloir, in which equipment and clothes were lying, and warned the ascending mountaineers and the appropriate services in Chamonix-Mont Blanc, which we visited the next day.
After visiting the mondane alpine resort on the way we also saw Martigny, the capital of this alpine landscape in the time of the Roman Empire, and the hospice of St. Bernard - but that perhaps already opens a new story around Mont Velan, Grand Combin and Mont Dolent, that peak so beloved by Kugy - once upon a time.

Finally a few dry facts:
- the ascent is justifiably rated PD on the French mountaineering scale: technically not overly demanding despite climbing under Aiguille de Goûter, but the entire tour, which is usually two days, is long and serious, with approx. 2400 m of elevation gain and considerable exposure and wind exposure in the upper part of the ridge. The initial part of the final ascent on the glacier is easy, the glacier is surprisingly little crevassed (you rarely see such an intact glacier on alpine four-thousanders), steep parts in the upper, later section do not exceed 35°. I would rate the ascent as half a grade technically and physically easier, but mentally more taxing than the recently completed route on the Dom;
- return ticket for the cogwheel train from Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, which takes us to 2412 m, costs 40 EUR; the alternative at this time is only a long ascent or descent into the valley (additional 1400-1800 m). The first train is at seven in the morning, the last at 16.13, so the ascent must be adjusted accordingly. It should also be taken into account that the couloir should always, if not almost necessarily, be crossed in the morning hours, as much as possible;
- currently only the normal route via Goûter is reasonably passable, the more attractive routes - the Italian normal route from Courmayeur or trois monts from Aiguille de Midi are this year mostly untracked and strongly discouraged due to heavily crevassed glaciers.

Enough - the ascent succeeded, even though it was marred by the tragedy of others, which reminded us of the untamed nature in an increasingly unstable environment.

With my partner, we wandered again through the Swiss high mountains last week. This time we climbed two peaks:

Lagginhorn, 4010 m (SW ridge/norm., PD-, I-II)
Dom, 4545 m (N slope/norm., PD+, III-/II, 40°)

The original idea was, for acclimatization before the serious Dom, which I had planned for a long time, to visit the predominantly glacial Weissmies (PD), which is considered an acclimatization classic from the Weissmieshütte hut (2726 m), which we approached on foot from Saas-Grund. However, a precipitation-poor winter and hot summer also affected Weissmies, so the glacier through which the normal route runs is this year extremely difficult and dangerous to traverse (rotten ice, numerous extensive new crevasses, steepness), so the hut keeper strongly advised against the ascent. Like most others, we chose an alternative goal that is gratefully similar in many ways (difficulty, length, starting point) except for the terrain character of the route to Weissmies and therefore suitable for our purpose: only one meter lower Lagginhorn.
We started the ascent in complete darkness, although we never have to step on snow or ice on the way to it at the moment, and due to the ridge character the route itself is not particularly exposed to falling rocks. Otherwise the thing itself is quite monotonous, comparable to blocky paths to many Turkish three-thousanders, and technically and orientation-wise relatively simple - the PD rating is in my opinion still exaggerated, the hardest spot by the white slab is somewhat exposed but short and not particularly difficult to climb (I+); everything else is mostly steep walking or scrambling not exceeding grade I. The summit itself is unexpectedly narrow and precipitous; during our visit a cold wind was blowing and mists obscured the view, so we quickly headed back down to the valley. The quite monotonous descent drags on, and apart from individual scenic ridge spots there is no special aesthetics on it - but it represents the fact that it is a relatively undemanding four-thousander that can be attempted without glacier equipment and rope (we saw quite a few solo walkers), a possible draft proposal for all who would like to climb an alpine four-thousander for the first time and avoid the crowds on the nearby Allalinhorn. In this respect, as well as for acclimatization before other ascents, Lagginhorn gains special references.
With all that, I must still say that the ascent should not be underestimated despite the above words, already because of the length (4-5 hours and approx. 1300 m ascent from the hut); on the way we for example saw people in completely unsuitable footwear and incomplete equipment still on the ascent in the early afternoon - this should certainly not be followed.

After descending to the valley we drove to the camp near Randa towards the main goal of the trip: the mighty cathedral Dom, the highest in the group of mountains above Saastal, which is the seventh highest but the third most prominent mountain in the Alps and the highest peak that lies entirely in Switzerland. The ascent to it is not known as overly technically demanding (although it is anything but trivial), but is known as very long and strenuous (and also objectively dangerous due to numerous glacial crevasses) - from the starting point to the summit there is as much as 3139 m of elevation gain, every meter must be walked, which is a specialty among alpine giants and the greatest elevation difference on the route among normal routes of four-thousanders. When we looked at it in the past and the day before from Saastal or above it, it seemed inaccessible with its vertical east wall, but unlike most neighbors such as the exclusively climbing Täschhorn and Lenzspitze it has a weak point, namely the extensive Hohberggletscher glacier on the NW side, which extends right to the last meters before the extremely precipitous summit, and offers the possibility for a strenuous but accessible normal route for skilled mountaineers. Of course there is always potential for difficulties on such a serious tour.
The weather forecast for the day we climbed the summit was not the most favorable, but it improved over time and after modest recovery the day after Lagginhorn we headed towards Domhütte, which is the starting point for the ascent of Dom.
The path itself at the hut is for the most part quite pleasant for the eyes and legs, as it winds through pleasant and comfortable walking terrain with wonderful views of the mighty Weisshorn and bold Zinalrothorn, later joined by a beautiful view towards the Matterhorn. Higher up the path becomes somewhat more demanding and gradually turns into a real easy via ferrata with very ingenious protections that safely take us through steep chimneys and a narrow ridge; without protections this would be quite serious climbing.
Breakfast before the ascent of Dom, which was that day the goal of almost all guests, is strictly at 2:30, although as usual we were a bit slow and left more towards the back. The path itself in the first part is well marked with cairns, but we followed the wrong series of cairns above the moraine and lost a few minutes on a day when afternoon thunderstorms were forecast; in this part we almost avoid the glacier up to the Festigrat ridge.
At approx. 3650 m follows the key element of the tour: the ascent over an approx. 80 m high wall of the ridge above the Festigletscher glacier, which at one place in the lower part may reach III-, otherwise it is mostly pleasant climbing of II in fairly compact rock. There are enough bolts for protection, which also indicate the optimal direction. Due to the crowd of people ahead of us we were forced to wait a long time, which meant we had to speed up in the second part of the ascent. In this part first follows a steep descent and crossing a very crevassed, dangerous part of the Hohberggletscher glacier, above 4000 m the latter becomes increasingly steeper (up to 40°), but does not cause too many difficulties.
The latter was potentially indicated by the weather, which contrary to expectations changed drastically and threatened. At the col approx. 80 m below the summit, where the conclusion of this year's almost impassable Festigrat ridge is also located, we joined forces with a group of experienced mountaineers; four of us quickly set off along the exposed and steep ridge to the summit and in a fast pace down to the glacier, the rest safely descended without the final ascent.

On the narrow and precipitous but very atmospheric summit with an elegant cross, where there is space for only a few people, we stayed only a short time.

Later we unanimously found the way across the increasingly open glacier and descended through the wall - at this point I must thank that they helped us with a longer collection of ropes and enabled a faster descent in the effort to get past the key section before potential weather inconveniences (we ourselves had only 30 m, which does not allow effective abseiling - I recommend at least 50 m). Half an hour above the hut the sky raged, but nothing worse happened.

After a long sleep the next day in light rain we descended past Europahütte and Charles Kuonen Hängebrücke, the longest suspension bridge in the world measuring almost 500 m in length, to Randa and set off on the long drive towards Ljubljana.

Final thoughts? The trip was certainly successful, we also had quite a bit of luck with the weather. Prices are Swiss expensive (especially in Domhütte, which is supplied only by helicopter), but the fact that due to logistics and bad weather we extended our stay at the hut for one night in the evening nevertheless proved wise; the tour to Dom is already very strenuous, and would have been even more so with an additional descent to the valley in a thunderstorm.
The tour to Lagginhorn is on the other hand relatively easy and in itself hardly worth the ascent except as acclimatization for more demanding and higher goals, but currently offers a favorable opportunity to climb a four-thousander without glacier equipment and rope. Some experience and respect for this kind of high mountain terrain is certainly necessary.

Thanks! The proposed itinerary - or some variation of it, perhaps in combination with Montanaia and the Padova hut - I warmly recommend in any case.
The Friulian Dolomites are truly unique, with numerous gleaming rocky towers and distinctive mineral forms, landscape-wise extremely attractive, and at the same time quite solitary, calmer than their more famous neighbors to the west - Kugy claimed in his mountaineering writings that in feeling and aesthetics Cridola and its surroundings have no equal.
It is true, though, that for a hiker seeking solitude the possibilities there are not exactly unlimited - yet I am already looking towards other goals here, for example Monfalcon di Forni, which can be admired during the ascent to Cridola.
But now other things come first
Good luck!

Monte Cridola (2581 m, "via Kugy-Orsolini", II+/I-II), Cima Urtisiel Est (2119 m), 4.-5. 7.

A week after climbing Mrzla gora via Hudega praska with my partner - as the start of this year's more serious summer tours - I hiked in the Carnic Prealps and realized a long-desired goal - Monte Cridola, the beauty of the Friulian Dolomites, rising above an exceptional setting of picturesque dolomite towers, windows and rock curtains.
On the first day, to get a taste of the surrounding mountains, I stepped onto the easily accessible viewpoint Cima Urtisiel Est, and on the second day, after overnighting in the Giaf hut, I set off not too early towards Tacci del Cridoli, where a rather wild, serious, though excellently marked ascent from other times begins along the route of the first ascenders to the eastern, main summit of Cridola - the Slovenian Triestine Julius Kugy and guide Orsoline. The route has a primordial character, comparable for example to nearby Monte Siera, but is somewhat more delicate; we mostly climb through crumbly gullies, chimneys and ledges of I.-II. grade, the hardest spot is a smooth chimney rated II+/III-, but it is not exposed and therefore perhaps even less problematic than the few-meter airy traverse of II. grade just below the summit. Otherwise the route is not too difficult, but constant concentration is required due to consistent exposure and steepness - this applies especially on the descent.
On the way I overtook three Italians, and met another five lower on the descent - quite a number for a rather rarely visited mountain on an otherwise very favorable weather day for hiking.

The aesthetic impression of the ascent can only be assessed with superlatives - may the pictures say more than words about the magic of nature's sculptures along the ascent, already praised by Kugy and his successors. The exceptional view from the small spacious, precipitous summit is also worth special mention.

I returned via the northern route past bivouac Vaccari and the Cridola saddle, which offered new exceptional views of the mysterious Carnic world, but also with painful scree that was not to the liking of the sensitive La Sportiva shoes - but despite reservations, I myself also recommend this circular route.
Without further ado - a memorable weekend in a beautiful setting as a successful introduction to the high mountaineering season.

PS: as usual, a more precise route can be read with the help of captions under the pictures. Good luck on mountain routes!

To stray a bit from the topic: last week I also visited the Gleris peaks. Based on the above contributions I stepped onto the path from the Forcella della Pecora saddle with more than just due awe, which however, despite the allure of the path, was not entirely justified: the path is to a large extent obviously freshly (unofficially) marked and nicely followable, skilfully routed through natural passages and technically relatively moderate difficulty (climbing nowhere exceeds good II. grade, rock is fairly compact except at individual spots, exposure manageable), thus scenic and hiking attractive. At two spots a fixed rope was attached during my visit: it helps considerably in the initial descent section from Cima di Mezzo through cluttered terrain towards Forcella del Forame, less relevant on the pleasant final ascent to Cima Alta di Gleris, where it also doesn't follow the most comfortable passages; can be useful on descent.
At the summit of Cima Alta di Gleris, queen of the 7 Picche de Gleris, a logbook awaits with more entries than one might expect, to popular Monte Chiavals (furl. Cjavals) only a less demanding ridge remains. For the whole path to Cjavals I used about 4 hours at moderate pace, parked a bit lower because due to problematic section I wasn't sure about higher road usability (unjustified). At summit met only people on route - family with 2 kids - and descended via varied and quite attractive marked path to Forcella di Vecce, from there scree unmarked trail to junction with path 430 and along it to start.

In current conditions I warmly recommend the path to sufficiently experienced without hesitation; I'd say comparable in difficulty e.g. to Karnic sentiero alpinistico Piero Nobile via Cima dai Gjai or normal to Monte Siero (which has quite different character) or unmarked Cima Piccolo della Scalo in Western Julians; who managed any of these or similar shouldn't have big problems traversing (three of) seven peaks of Gleris massif. Regular reliable markings ease orientation and passage under peaks, still I'd definitely plan the tour in described direction.

Somehow like @djimuzl described, but also very exposed - the fall would end only about 80 m lower in the gully between Poncas. Last time I was there, a somewhat unreliable cable was hanging miserably from the upper ledge, which helps very little on descent.
This part is short, but one of the trickier officially marked ones here and advised against in wet - but not too bad and the further ascent to the summit is very nice and scenic.
Attaching a photo of the tricky part from a few years ago. Careful, otherwise go ahead boldly.

It's true I rarely report on ascents in our hills - especially since they seldom bring novelty to the forum - but given that reports on Pihavec ascents are lonely this year, and the peak itself much less visited lately, I'll treat myself to a slightly longer report this time.

Last Sunday during a stressful period (especially as lazier students got even more used to relaxed Covid-time approach :tongue) at the end of September I wanted a shorter, less ambitious outing, so headed to Pihavec, one of the last peaks above Kriški podi left in my collection (excluding the brr ridge between Goličica and Planja). Original traverse plan via lonelier route fizzled due to conditions, substitute was nice though. Description probably known to many, no harm providing it for a curious follower.

In the morning with companion who accompanied me to Luknja saddle, among numerous hikers heading to Triglav or Kriški podi, parked in Vrata and walked to the pass, where sunny morning was replaced by quite dense fog and strong wind gusts. Continued solo and despite poor visibility, when fog was only occasionally blown away by a stronger gust of wind, reached the famous gully in the west wall of Vrh nad Kamnom without major orientation problems, where Tina Mihelič, great Julian Alps expert, ended her life. Gully offers the most elegant crossing of the wall, but quite demanding - one few-meter passage requires climbing good II grade (guide states even II-III, which is too much here), the rest easier but still steep. For return on the same path, less experienced ones should not forget to take a piece of rope.
From gully continued on steep precipitous grasses and followed logical ascent course on grasses and scree between Pihavec and Vrh nad Kamnom, a bit below the Čez Kamen notch also spotted two lonely cairns. Near the notch joined the upper part of the marked path and easily reached spacious Pihavec summit.
No views on the lonely peak nor proper alpine atmosphere could be conjured, but occasionally Triglav and Razor group revealed above the fog. Before heading back, a guy surprised me - and I him - who supposedly had not experienced a visit here yet. Well, a look in the logbook showed that visits are not (anymore) so rare and that even that day we were not the only ones.

Based on assurances of the mountaineer I met and log entries suggesting passability of the path, from the notch I headed down the (still) marked path (original intent was descent via pathless south ridge over M. Pihavec to pl. Zajavor, but had to abandon due to very poor visibility and strong wind). Protections in upper descent part from notch partly damaged, but where really needed (crossing vertical jump secured with steps and cable) function satisfactorily; on the other hand terrain truly collapsed and ascent on this path in given conditions deadly dangerous. If at all, when descending solo where we can control the situation, use it only for descent, even better to avoid it until possible repair/reopening; given the route and broken terrain I doubt the latter is really worthwhile.

After descent over large scree field continued on easier pathless terrain under Bovški Gamsovec ridge to Dovška vratca (2180 m). Then it fully cleared up and I couldn't help but climb back up nearby Bovški Gamsovec for the trademark views and in good 20 minutes stood on the summit. On the way met quite a few hikers, on summit enjoyed and photographed wonderful views - with now fully clear view of Triglav north face - and was back at Dovška vratca in less than an hour; this time did not descend the otherwise very nice, already known path to Luknja but, since afternoon obligations were already urging me, quickly descended over Sovatna. In an hour and a half was in the car and heading back in weather hinting at possible evening precipitation.

Although the outing was meant as an easier tour after some more ambitious paths abroad, it turned out to be an interesting little tour in quite wild surroundings, even though located near Triglav promenades.

felix, thanks. The excursion is really gorgeous - panoramic, fun and excellently protected - but due to features of this part of Gail Alps and many interesting ferratas and easier climbs to summits above the hut, I'd recommend overnight in large pleasant Karlsbader Hütte and climb another hill (many routes in Lienz Dolomites, unofficial name or compact range name, described on portal).

On timing: we hurried due to afternoon obligations, so (especially on descent) speeded up a bit. Time on hribi.net is overstated - average hiker at least 1.5h to hut (official 2:15 too conservative), plus good hour steep to ferrata start. Ferrata airy and demanding spots, count at least 3h to Grosse Sandspitze - official traverse time, which we took at moderate pace. Views demand stops, add a bit.
Descent Ari Schubel to start in just over 2h, faster pace. Maybe count 1.5h descent to hut (recall official ascent on descent path 2.5h, exaggerated, descent fast except secured spots).
Reminder: small elev. diff. Karlsbader to Grosse Sandspitze (512m), but Panorama ridge has many descents to notches and reascents.

Happy trails,
Gašper

PS: topographic sketch of route with official times

Congratulations from me too - it's a truly adventurous ascent, satisfyingly ambitious! Tum tempts me, but the ridge continuation over Plaski Vogel seems like almost (too) honest a bite for a solo explorer, so kudos are even more deserved. The experience is also decently described and photo-documented.
Regarding names, in the end it's not that important, as they are labels often locally spiced. In this case the distribution seems fairly even, but in recent years the easier-sounding Vrh Labrja is preferred, used e.g. on all maps of the Surveying and Mapping Authority of Slovenia from 2000+ that I have at hand (Julijske Alpe - W part, Triglav National Park, probably also Julijci - Z which I don't have now), in most print, and also by M&M. So Žajtam's note is spot on.
Since both names without doubt refer to the same referent (once we figure out which hill it actually is , of course it doesn't matter.

Best,
Gašper

Kl. and Gr. Laserzkopf (2718 m), Galitzenspitzen (2710 m), Daumen (2720 m), Große Sandspitze (2772 m) - Gailtal Alps

A day after the ascent to Glödis (post at https://www.hribi.net/trenutne_razmere/aut/glodis_3206_m_visoke_ture_skupina_hochschober/57/6222) my friend and I set off on the beautiful grand via ferrata Panorama-Klettersteig, which traverses most of the central group of the Lienz Dolomites (which represent the highest and westernmost part of the Gailtal Alps), and ends at the monarch of the range, the 2772 m high Große Sandspitze [strictly speaking it's the "Sepp-Oberlechner-Gedächtnisweg" route, the Panorama-Klettersteig marking represents a complete circular traverse, where the mentioned route is combined with descent to the Karlsbader hut via easier "Gebirgsjägersteig" or "Ari-Schübel-Steig" - the site editor can correct the slip in the description].

Due to late return from Glödis and unfavorable road conditions we arrived late at the large parking lot at Lienzer Dolomitenhütte and reached the spacious Karlsbader Hütte at 2260 m already at night.
Next morning we headed to the start of the famous ridge via ferrata Panorama-Klettersteig, which leads across most of the central Lienz Dolomites group to Große Sandspitze. The modern via ferrata over the summits of Laserzkopf, Galitzenspitzen and Daumen is scenically very attractive, excellently routed and perfectly secured - as such it perhaps represents the most a mountaineer can do non-alpinistically in the Lienz Dolomites in one go.
Technically the via ferrata is not among the most difficult - the most demanding is the ascent to the bold tower Daumen, which at one spot (chimney) reaches C/D difficulty (which might even be slightly exaggerated, as the chimney is relatively unexposed and short, perhaps even more demanding are the ascent to Laserzkopf, the first part of the ascent to Daumen and descent from it) - otherwise the climbing grade is up to C. On the other hand it's a very long and airy secured path with regular ups and downs requiring sustained concentration; but perfectly secured and on surprisingly solid rock - good spirits during the traverse are aided by the wonderful deep views it constantly offers.

From the very panoramic range summit we quickly descended the much easier Ari Schübel path (just one annoying exposed traverse and B/C spot, the rest easier but crumbly) past the hut to the car. My friend then continued towards Innsbruck, I headed to evening work obligations.

Unlike the ascent to Glödis the day before, wonderful weather accompanied us this time, offering expansive views. Conditions are of course still summery, the Karlsbader hut is open until the end of the first weekend in October. The Lienz Dolomites are a popular and compact range that character-wise stands out quite a bit from the rest of the Gailtal Alps, thus surely offering the guest some attractive rewards for the effort invested.

Bottom line - in my personal conclusion of this year's high season in foreign mountains at the end of the calendar summer it was a fairly grand trip on two appealing paths, which due to their marked and secured nature were perhaps somewhat easier orientation-wise, but still very tempting and worth the somewhat longer drive. Recommended.

Thanks everyone, hope I manage to post pics of the continuation of this colorful journey today
Safe in the mountains,
Gašper

Lately I've been posting less frequently on the forum, which doesn't mean I'm not active in the mountains - just due to numerous work obligations it's hard to find time to describe things properly. In the coming weeks I might correct some sins (Hochalmspitze, Grossglockner, Krofička traverse etc.), but this time I'll manage to post a completely up-to-date report related to the beginning of this week that might give someone an idea for visiting the wonderful peaks we visited with a colleague.

I used the last two days of annual leave for peaks around Lienz. A good week earlier I planned to end the high alpine season in Switzerland with Finsteraarhorn, but had to postpone this tour for a year due to health and weather conditions, so for this year I said goodbye to foreign high mountains with a less demanding and more comfortable trip (though planned relatively complex).
With my friend we chose a somewhat unusual and complicated itinerary, which earned us quite a few extraordinary views and atmospheric moments - well, also some annoyance
On the first day, to admit, in the proverbial style of Slavic colleagues not too early we arrived at the entrance to the Hohe Tauern world and climbed the prominent, recognizable from afar Glödis (also Glödisspitze). The secured path leading to the summit along the southeast ridge since 2006 is technically not particularly demanding (mostly up to B, one spot maybe B/C, short climb above the bridge C, but can be avoided), but damp rocks carrying patches of fresh snow required cautious ascent. On the way we cross a very attractive suspension bridge, which due to the snow tongue and icy base below looked quite ominous.
After a stop at the summit in increasingly panoramic afternoon we slowly descended and on the way observed a "glory" (phenomenon similar to a rainbow). In the evening we were at the car and headed to the starting point towards the goal of the second day on the contrasting side south of Lienz.

Perhaps it's a bit premature to say that summer conditions are leaving - we went to the summit right after a short snowfall period, on the via ferrata only fresh wind-blown snow accompanied us, which after a few warmer days is probably gone now. Views from the top were more selective, Grossglockner which I visited in early September didn't peek out of the clouds; nevertheless the spacious summit offered a nice choice for the last days of calendar summer and the Schober group revealed itself somewhat shyly but quite majestically before us.

Finally some more technical notes: the trip is quite well known to Slovenes and due to the fairly straightforward Glödis path offers a comfortable opportunity for a one-day assault on an attractive three-thousander, but the drive to the Lienz area in East Tyrol is quite long. The road to Seichenbrunn compared to most similar Austrian starting points is locally a bit worse (that's why we had some unexpected problems on the late evening descent), but shouldn't be a serious obstacle even for low cars - it's not the Gößgraben road
Path to the via ferrata entrance at just over 2900 m is easy, long and somewhat monotonous, though through attractive landscape.
Flawlessly secured via ferrata is more akin to our high alpine secured paths than modern sport vias and apart from the attractive bridge crossing is skillfully routed over the most comfortable ridge passages.
Hut open until early October, but seems to have been somewhat deserted lately - we met no one on the entire path, towards the summit we broke the first tracks in the snow.

Thanks everyone, due to the pleasant experience it was a pleasure to provide the description and possible tip.
Such a traverse (and Nederkogel a day later) is also excellent preparation for demanding ascents that I still plan at the end of summer, e.g. Finsteraarhorn in Switzerland.

Perhaps just emphasis that when planning similar tours we have quite a lot of free hand and choice, because from the huts lead numerous well-marked paths to a multitude of peaks - in Karwendel, which is really an extensive range, there is an abundance of spires and towers between, say, 2300 and over 2700 m altitude, and unlike approaches at home even easier climbing paths are often marked.

Safe steps!

Thanks @palček plezalček! Always try to animate trips in words, especially when lesser known to Slovenes areas I've explored last two years.
Think those "panoramas" really show dynamics of nature and weather conditions accompanying me on this path.
Otherwise I too gladly read your path descriptions that often come in handy for planning future outings.
Best,
Gašper

Trobec:
Well, thanks for the rating; this description was the hardest of all I wrote for this portal, because it is really quite complicated exploratively, to the saddle under Mali vratci is "wild", obvious orientation landmarks are few. Copying Habjan makes no sense, his is also loose.
As user redbull already said and you consistently note (although with a bit of terminological confusion), over Mali vratci there is actually no need to go, which I emphasized in the description, but Habjan suggests exactly that - it increases the difficulty, the descent to the notch is somewhat awkward.
I must note that Mali vratci are not a saddle (as the name might otherwise suggest - but see the similarly named peak Vratca on the other side of the Kočna massif), but rather the actual summit above the saddle (ref. Habjan: Brezpotja, https://www.gore-ljudje.si/na-kocno, http://xn--pepoti-ckb.si/tocka.php?id=4591 etc.)

Perhaps somewhat unimportant, but if the perspective of a slightly harder-to-reach summit spurs someone to an extra traverse, that's fine too

Otherwise a very nice tour - congratulations!
Best,
Gašper