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As part of a trip to Mont Blanc (see the post in the topic about this mountain) my partner and I climbed the well-known and popular peak La Tournette on my 40th birthday, which rises like a mighty guard over the attractive Lake Annecy and the city of the same name, the capital of Haute-Savoie, where we were waiting for the passage of a cold front.

The path to the summit, which rises like a small rock peg above the extensive massif, is secured in places and due to its extreme popularity very slippery, but relatively undemanding. The summit offers exceptional views of Lake Annecy and the surrounding areas, and with normal visibility also of the Mont Blanc massif, which we were deprived of that day.

According to the criteria of this portal, the path can be classified as a demanding secured path, and on it, among numerous hikers of various mountaineering knowledge and equipment, we encountered a multitude of ibexes, which brought back feelings from the western Julian Alps.
From the starting point to the summit there is a good 1100 m of elevation, which can be covered in less than three hours.

For a long time - even before I first visited these parts - I was drawn to the splendid stone fortress of countless pinnacles, recesses and bold spires. Cima Undici - named because from Sesto at the summer solstice the sun shines over it exactly at eleven o'clock - occupies one of the central places in the wildest sunny hour in the Alps, the famous Sexten meridians. With its appearance, apparent inaccessibility and historical significance (it was down its cliffs that the famous Mascabroni descended in WWI) Cima Undici most completely embodies the spirit of these places and represents a kind of emblem of the Sexten peaks east of the mountain civilization of the Three Cin.

The Eleven has, besides numerous less distinct towers, two main summits: while the southern one (3092 m) - the higher - with its complexity and length of approach, extreme friability and technical difficulty in unforgiving terrain (III) for a soloist - a tourist is probably too big a bite, the ascent to the only 11 m lower northern summit (3081 m) is serious, technically quite demanding and objectively sometimes dangerous, yet reachable also for experienced mountaineers without greater alpine ambitions. And it was precisely to it that this time a surprisingly well-equipped path finally carried me.

Cima Undici/Elferkofel Nord (3081 m), "Via Berti", II/I-II

Although I often came to this area, having done ascents of Monte Popero, ferata Roghel and c. Gabriela, Strada degli Alpini and Campanile Colesei and to the cross of Crode Rosse di Sesto along both arms of Zandonella, due to numerous factors (closed paths towards Passu delli Sentinelli, fresh snow and snowstorm in July, problematic itinerary) until this year no serious attempt on Cimo Undici Nord had succeeded. This time conditions were suitable.

On the first day after morning work obligations I arrived quite late at the parking lot at Selvapiani (parking fee 12 EUR per day, 20 for two days) with the intention that on the longer path to the hut on the first day of the trip I would conquer Cimo d`Ambata (2815 m) and peek towards Cima Bagni (2983 m), but due to the destroyed path 152, consequence of the catastrophic summer in the Alps which required long and quite unfavorable detours, in places it was completely missing, and late hour of the day when possible afternoon thunderstorms were forecast, I interrupted the ascent in the quarry at approx. 2400 m and via Sasso di Selvapiane (2116 m) with great caution due to the poor condition of the path reached the quite pleasing Berti hut.

On the second day I set off early towards Sentinella pass. In this area the situation is considerably better or more similar to the past - the slopes are still broken, requiring a fair amount of caution, but not beyond expected limits. After the junction of the Zandonella via ferrata, where I scrambled last year, through unpleasant scree we reach the quite new protected path Cengia Manuela (2024) - it is a short and technically relatively straightforward (B), but airy and certainly not entirely trivial via ferrata, which safely takes us across the broken world below the famous pass, under which the destroyed ladders on the former path have long ceased to serve their purpose.

After a few meters of walking on the Strada degli Alpini I spotted tracks that lead us towards the rock of the mountain that rises majestically above the saddle. Soon one can spot the first man and the approach chimney, which is friable but not overly demanding (II-). Above it for a short time a real, easily traceable path across the scree surprises us, running to the right of the famous gully of the Mascabroni descent - once a snowy threat, today unfortunately a dried-up channel.
Higher up we again enter pathless terrain, but it is excellently equipped, in some places the route (unnecessarily in Italian) is even marked with red ribbons on stones. The very primitive ascent proceeds through friable chimneys, gullies and systems of ledges and over a moderately steep wall which we overcome in keys with easier climbing (I-II). In the summit part over an exposed ledge we cross under the pre-summit, ascend through a demanding chimney (II) and over an airy ridge climb (I) to the narrow, precipitous but very scenic summit with a box of summit registers (bring your own!)

The ascent itself is not particularly technically demanding - perhaps on three places we climb good II, otherwise mostly I. grade - but it is constantly tense, proceeding in a primitive, steep and broken environment. At the summit due to family agreement I did not linger too long and carefully descended to the pass and past the frequented Popera lakes and Berti hut to Selvapiane and to San Candido, where the remaining family members joined me for a few more pleasant days in the otherwise very lively Dolomites.

Perhaps just this, to my great surprise on a weekday when I was returning from this really very rarely visited summit, a trio of Italians was also ascending it - and judging by the really abundantly equipped route one can conclude that this summit, which despite sufficient prominence is not drawn on most maps, is nevertheless becoming ever more popular.

The ascent of the summit, which enjoys considerable prestige among locals, closed an important chapter in a personal mountaineering career. Nevertheless in this wonderful part of the Dolomites there still remain quite a few objectives that invite - first Cimo d`Ambata and Cima Bagni, then the famous Croda dei Toni/Zwölferkofel, and of course the southern summit of Cima Undici. But for that different circumstances and company will be needed - someday.

Western ridge of Kalški greben, III/I-II

Stable, mountaineering-friendly days like the ones we've seen in the recent period are perfect for exploring lesser-known, hidden and forgotten corners of our mountains. This year I focused most of the dry season on exploratory trips to the alpine world abroad, but finally the time came for a tour I had in mind for many years - ever since I read Habjan's modest but informative report about it online and later in Brezpotja.

According to the data I managed to gather, only a few hikers have set out along the western ridge of Kalški greben - in total I found three slightly inconsistent reports - into a world that, despite being in plain sight of the masses walking from Suhadolnik to Kokrsko sedlo, feels untouched and primeval. Apart from very rare traces of predecessors in some places and one guy in the upper part of the ridge, no other signs of human activity in the direction can be found.

At first I perhaps followed a bit too long the relatively well-trodden path marked with yellow dots from Suhadolnik past Neškarjev plaz, which shares the start with the western ridge and bypasses it south below it. I reached the ridge itself via steep off-trail only slightly below the barrier that makes the ascent towards the central part difficult, where the forest turns into dwarf pine.

The passage towards the dwarf-pine section of the ridge, enabled by a steep rocky-dwarf-pine gully, is the key detail of the route and reaches high II., in the upper part even III. grade of climbing at one or two spots. As an unfriendly reward for the effort, an endless expanse of dwarf pine greets us at the top, which must be methodically - or with raw force of pushing through - swam through in quite steep terrain. Higher up, more and more rock appears between patches of dwarf pine, some jumps reach at most II. grade. At around 2000 m the ridge breaks at a high-mountain meadow, above which it narrows into the final rocky section.
Climbing in this part is a real pleasure: views below us are always deeper and wider, the rock is compact and the route flows. Difficulty of climbing along the sometimes quite airy cut does not exceed II. The ridge eventually spits us out onto the gentle summit slope of Greben just a few minutes' walk to the top, which we reach via the easy southern path.

From the top I set off along a pleasant, partly secured path, stopped by at Kalška gora, and returned to the car at Suhadolnik via the relatively newly renovated path past the closed Cojzova hut.

In any case it's a wild, adventurous tour in a primeval setting that requires a certain sense of orientation and technical knowledge, but is not too hard. Breaking through large fields of mature dwarf pine is quite tedious, but it rewards us with wonderful climbing on fairly solid rock. The ascent along this route is thus relatively dynamic and I recommend it to the still unconvinced who are prepared - but they should perhaps watch the video first to be clear what awaits them.

Since footage says more than pictures, I also provide a short video of the ascent: https://youtu.be/PGEEBeWSY1o

Mont Blanc (4807 m):
Persistence, success and tragedy on the highest mountain of Western Europe

Last week my partner and I spent time in France to celebrate my 40th birthday, where after a first interrupted attempt at the beginning of the week we reached the highest point in the Alps for the second time.

The plan was a bit more ambitious - we were thinking of Mont Velan or even Grand Combin as acclimatization tours - but the availability of huts and weather conditions did not allow it, so we immediately headed towards Mont Blanc; although our previous wish was the route of the three peaks, due to unsuitable conditions on other routes we decided on the French normal route. Due to the disastrous forecast for Wednesday we had to postpone the planned ascent from Tete Rousse, two days before that we found new accommodation in the recently reopened sinfully expensive Goûter hut (basic overnight 70 EUR (-5 with mountain club card), dinner 53 EUR, breakfast 21 EUR), no running water for washing, while a liter bottle costs 7 EUR - but they open the kitchen for us, because one can calmly prepare a brought meal).
The main problem of the ascent to the Goûter hut is still the extremely dangerous crossing of the Grand Couloir [couloir>, because of which the huts on the normal route were closed for two weeks in August, but the situation in September with snowfall improved enough that the municipal authorities reopened the huts. The crossing is short - it is only a half-minute passage - and undemanding, but mentally exhausting, as was especially evident on the second attempt. In the continuation of the ascent we move on a not particularly steep terrain, where we climb with the help of cables or without them (mostly I, two places poor II).

The start of the ascent towards the summit took place in a calm and warm night, but after a bad hour of easy glacier walking the conditions quickly and surprisingly deteriorated, followed by a snowstorm and wind at 80-85 km/h, which drove us with a few other hikers into the Vallot bivouac (4362 m) somewhere halfway. There we waited almost three hours waiting for the expected improvement, which did not come; in complete whiteout we led another pair back to the hut and descended disappointed into the valley. At least as consolation we caught the penultimate train and a little earlier rode to the capital of Haute-Savoie, Annecy, where we spent the next few gloomier days, which we spiced up with an ascent of La Tourette (see post on the topic).

During our stay in Annecy on my 40th birthday we climbed the well-known and popular peak La Tournette, which rises like a mighty guardian above the attractive Lake Annecy (see separate post about this peak: https://www.hribi.net/trenutne_razmere/fra/la_tournette_2351_m_gorovje_bornes/10015/10123).
While walking we were thinking how to save the vacation in conditions that will change drastically after Wednesday's all-day rain or snowfall - do we climb the nearby Aiguille d'Argentière and Mont Dolent, the more distant Grand Combin or Mont Velan or even Ortler on the way home? We asked the appropriate services in Chamonix about the conditions on the Trois Monts route on Mont Blanc, which was our original wish, but received a warning and negative answer regarding the state of the route.
In the end the idea came that since we are already here and well acclimatized, let's try once more on the same route to the summit of the Western Alps. Fortunately we still got two places for Thursday overnight in the Goûter hut, Tete Rousse was completely booked.

Conditions changed drastically after Wednesday's front passage - the wall under Aiguille du Goûter, where the path to the hut leads and where on Sunday and Monday there was not even a handful of snow, was now almost entirely snow-covered and in a large part required climbing in crampons (which is otherwise usual for this ascent). A bigger problem was that Thursday's sun quickly melted the snow binding in the rocks of the upper part of the couloir, which represented an increased risk during the crossing. During our crossing everything still worked perfectly fine, but in the upper part of the wall, a good hour after our crossing of the key section, we saw a large avalanche in the couloir and heard terrible screams below us - we continued anxiously, at the hut we heard that unfortunately a person had died in it, at the place where there had already been quite a few - far too many - victims this year.
The next morning we started a little later than on Monday and quickly progressed past the Vallot bivouac and along the Bosses ridge. We reached the summit after about four hours, but progress on the final part of the ridge was made difficult by powerful gusts of wind in an otherwise extremely atmospheric morning that offered wonderful views. With the exception of the wind, which is a constant in this part, the conditions were excellent due to the newly fallen snow. That day we were among the first on the summit, but on the way back we met a considerable number of hikers, mostly with mountain guides.
After returning to the hut under the splendid backdrop of the play of sun and clouds we quickly descended across the wall under Goûter and with fear and a lump in the throat crossed the couloir, in which equipment and clothes were lying, and warned the ascending mountaineers and the appropriate services in Chamonix-Mont Blanc, which we visited the next day.
After visiting the mondane alpine resort on the way we also saw Martigny, the capital of this alpine landscape in the time of the Roman Empire, and the hospice of St. Bernard - but that perhaps already opens a new story around Mont Velan, Grand Combin and Mont Dolent, that peak so beloved by Kugy - once upon a time.

Finally a few dry facts:
- the ascent is justifiably rated PD on the French mountaineering scale: technically not overly demanding despite climbing under Aiguille de Goûter, but the entire tour, which is usually two days, is long and serious, with approx. 2400 m of elevation gain and considerable exposure and wind exposure in the upper part of the ridge. The initial part of the final ascent on the glacier is easy, the glacier is surprisingly little crevassed (you rarely see such an intact glacier on alpine four-thousanders), steep parts in the upper, later section do not exceed 35°. I would rate the ascent as half a grade technically and physically easier, but mentally more taxing than the recently completed route on the Dom;
- return ticket for the cogwheel train from Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, which takes us to 2412 m, costs 40 EUR; the alternative at this time is only a long ascent or descent into the valley (additional 1400-1800 m). The first train is at seven in the morning, the last at 16.13, so the ascent must be adjusted accordingly. It should also be taken into account that the couloir should always, if not almost necessarily, be crossed in the morning hours, as much as possible;
- currently only the normal route via Goûter is reasonably passable, the more attractive routes - the Italian normal route from Courmayeur or trois monts from Aiguille de Midi are this year mostly untracked and strongly discouraged due to heavily crevassed glaciers.

Enough - the ascent succeeded, even though it was marred by the tragedy of others, which reminded us of the untamed nature in an increasingly unstable environment.

With my partner, we wandered again through the Swiss high mountains last week. This time we climbed two peaks:

Lagginhorn, 4010 m (SW ridge/norm., PD-, I-II)
Dom, 4545 m (N slope/norm., PD+, III-/II, 40°)

The original idea was, for acclimatization before the serious Dom, which I had planned for a long time, to visit the predominantly glacial Weissmies (PD), which is considered an acclimatization classic from the Weissmieshütte hut (2726 m), which we approached on foot from Saas-Grund. However, a precipitation-poor winter and hot summer also affected Weissmies, so the glacier through which the normal route runs is this year extremely difficult and dangerous to traverse (rotten ice, numerous extensive new crevasses, steepness), so the hut keeper strongly advised against the ascent. Like most others, we chose an alternative goal that is gratefully similar in many ways (difficulty, length, starting point) except for the terrain character of the route to Weissmies and therefore suitable for our purpose: only one meter lower Lagginhorn.
We started the ascent in complete darkness, although we never have to step on snow or ice on the way to it at the moment, and due to the ridge character the route itself is not particularly exposed to falling rocks. Otherwise the thing itself is quite monotonous, comparable to blocky paths to many Turkish three-thousanders, and technically and orientation-wise relatively simple - the PD rating is in my opinion still exaggerated, the hardest spot by the white slab is somewhat exposed but short and not particularly difficult to climb (I+); everything else is mostly steep walking or scrambling not exceeding grade I. The summit itself is unexpectedly narrow and precipitous; during our visit a cold wind was blowing and mists obscured the view, so we quickly headed back down to the valley. The quite monotonous descent drags on, and apart from individual scenic ridge spots there is no special aesthetics on it - but it represents the fact that it is a relatively undemanding four-thousander that can be attempted without glacier equipment and rope (we saw quite a few solo walkers), a possible draft proposal for all who would like to climb an alpine four-thousander for the first time and avoid the crowds on the nearby Allalinhorn. In this respect, as well as for acclimatization before other ascents, Lagginhorn gains special references.
With all that, I must still say that the ascent should not be underestimated despite the above words, already because of the length (4-5 hours and approx. 1300 m ascent from the hut); on the way we for example saw people in completely unsuitable footwear and incomplete equipment still on the ascent in the early afternoon - this should certainly not be followed.

After descending to the valley we drove to the camp near Randa towards the main goal of the trip: the mighty cathedral Dom, the highest in the group of mountains above Saastal, which is the seventh highest but the third most prominent mountain in the Alps and the highest peak that lies entirely in Switzerland. The ascent to it is not known as overly technically demanding (although it is anything but trivial), but is known as very long and strenuous (and also objectively dangerous due to numerous glacial crevasses) - from the starting point to the summit there is as much as 3139 m of elevation gain, every meter must be walked, which is a specialty among alpine giants and the greatest elevation difference on the route among normal routes of four-thousanders. When we looked at it in the past and the day before from Saastal or above it, it seemed inaccessible with its vertical east wall, but unlike most neighbors such as the exclusively climbing Täschhorn and Lenzspitze it has a weak point, namely the extensive Hohberggletscher glacier on the NW side, which extends right to the last meters before the extremely precipitous summit, and offers the possibility for a strenuous but accessible normal route for skilled mountaineers. Of course there is always potential for difficulties on such a serious tour.
The weather forecast for the day we climbed the summit was not the most favorable, but it improved over time and after modest recovery the day after Lagginhorn we headed towards Domhütte, which is the starting point for the ascent of Dom.
The path itself at the hut is for the most part quite pleasant for the eyes and legs, as it winds through pleasant and comfortable walking terrain with wonderful views of the mighty Weisshorn and bold Zinalrothorn, later joined by a beautiful view towards the Matterhorn. Higher up the path becomes somewhat more demanding and gradually turns into a real easy via ferrata with very ingenious protections that safely take us through steep chimneys and a narrow ridge; without protections this would be quite serious climbing.
Breakfast before the ascent of Dom, which was that day the goal of almost all guests, is strictly at 2:30, although as usual we were a bit slow and left more towards the back. The path itself in the first part is well marked with cairns, but we followed the wrong series of cairns above the moraine and lost a few minutes on a day when afternoon thunderstorms were forecast; in this part we almost avoid the glacier up to the Festigrat ridge.
At approx. 3650 m follows the key element of the tour: the ascent over an approx. 80 m high wall of the ridge above the Festigletscher glacier, which at one place in the lower part may reach III-, otherwise it is mostly pleasant climbing of II in fairly compact rock. There are enough bolts for protection, which also indicate the optimal direction. Due to the crowd of people ahead of us we were forced to wait a long time, which meant we had to speed up in the second part of the ascent. In this part first follows a steep descent and crossing a very crevassed, dangerous part of the Hohberggletscher glacier, above 4000 m the latter becomes increasingly steeper (up to 40°), but does not cause too many difficulties.
The latter was potentially indicated by the weather, which contrary to expectations changed drastically and threatened. At the col approx. 80 m below the summit, where the conclusion of this year's almost impassable Festigrat ridge is also located, we joined forces with a group of experienced mountaineers; four of us quickly set off along the exposed and steep ridge to the summit and in a fast pace down to the glacier, the rest safely descended without the final ascent.

On the narrow and precipitous but very atmospheric summit with an elegant cross, where there is space for only a few people, we stayed only a short time.

Later we unanimously found the way across the increasingly open glacier and descended through the wall - at this point I must thank that they helped us with a longer collection of ropes and enabled a faster descent in the effort to get past the key section before potential weather inconveniences (we ourselves had only 30 m, which does not allow effective abseiling - I recommend at least 50 m). Half an hour above the hut the sky raged, but nothing worse happened.

After a long sleep the next day in light rain we descended past Europahütte and Charles Kuonen Hängebrücke, the longest suspension bridge in the world measuring almost 500 m in length, to Randa and set off on the long drive towards Ljubljana.

Final thoughts? The trip was certainly successful, we also had quite a bit of luck with the weather. Prices are Swiss expensive (especially in Domhütte, which is supplied only by helicopter), but the fact that due to logistics and bad weather we extended our stay at the hut for one night in the evening nevertheless proved wise; the tour to Dom is already very strenuous, and would have been even more so with an additional descent to the valley in a thunderstorm.
The tour to Lagginhorn is on the other hand relatively easy and in itself hardly worth the ascent except as acclimatization for more demanding and higher goals, but currently offers a favorable opportunity to climb a four-thousander without glacier equipment and rope. Some experience and respect for this kind of high mountain terrain is certainly necessary.

Thanks! The proposed itinerary - or some variation of it, perhaps in combination with Montanaia and the Padova hut - I warmly recommend in any case.
The Friulian Dolomites are truly unique, with numerous gleaming rocky towers and distinctive mineral forms, landscape-wise extremely attractive, and at the same time quite solitary, calmer than their more famous neighbors to the west - Kugy claimed in his mountaineering writings that in feeling and aesthetics Cridola and its surroundings have no equal.
It is true, though, that for a hiker seeking solitude the possibilities there are not exactly unlimited - yet I am already looking towards other goals here, for example Monfalcon di Forni, which can be admired during the ascent to Cridola.
But now other things come first
Good luck!

Monte Cridola (2581 m, "via Kugy-Orsolini", II+/I-II), Cima Urtisiel Est (2119 m), 4.-5. 7.

A week after climbing Mrzla gora via Hudega praska with my partner - as the start of this year's more serious summer tours - I hiked in the Carnic Prealps and realized a long-desired goal - Monte Cridola, the beauty of the Friulian Dolomites, rising above an exceptional setting of picturesque dolomite towers, windows and rock curtains.
On the first day, to get a taste of the surrounding mountains, I stepped onto the easily accessible viewpoint Cima Urtisiel Est, and on the second day, after overnighting in the Giaf hut, I set off not too early towards Tacci del Cridoli, where a rather wild, serious, though excellently marked ascent from other times begins along the route of the first ascenders to the eastern, main summit of Cridola - the Slovenian Triestine Julius Kugy and guide Orsoline. The route has a primordial character, comparable for example to nearby Monte Siera, but is somewhat more delicate; we mostly climb through crumbly gullies, chimneys and ledges of I.-II. grade, the hardest spot is a smooth chimney rated II+/III-, but it is not exposed and therefore perhaps even less problematic than the few-meter airy traverse of II. grade just below the summit. Otherwise the route is not too difficult, but constant concentration is required due to consistent exposure and steepness - this applies especially on the descent.
On the way I overtook three Italians, and met another five lower on the descent - quite a number for a rather rarely visited mountain on an otherwise very favorable weather day for hiking.

The aesthetic impression of the ascent can only be assessed with superlatives - may the pictures say more than words about the magic of nature's sculptures along the ascent, already praised by Kugy and his successors. The exceptional view from the small spacious, precipitous summit is also worth special mention.

I returned via the northern route past bivouac Vaccari and the Cridola saddle, which offered new exceptional views of the mysterious Carnic world, but also with painful scree that was not to the liking of the sensitive La Sportiva shoes - but despite reservations, I myself also recommend this circular route.
Without further ado - a memorable weekend in a beautiful setting as a successful introduction to the high mountaineering season.

PS: as usual, a more precise route can be read with the help of captions under the pictures. Good luck on mountain routes!

To stray a bit from the topic: last week I also visited the Gleris peaks. Based on the above contributions I stepped onto the path from the Forcella della Pecora saddle with more than just due awe, which however, despite the allure of the path, was not entirely justified: the path is to a large extent obviously freshly (unofficially) marked and nicely followable, skilfully routed through natural passages and technically relatively moderate difficulty (climbing nowhere exceeds good II. grade, rock is fairly compact except at individual spots, exposure manageable), thus scenic and hiking attractive. At two spots a fixed rope was attached during my visit: it helps considerably in the initial descent section from Cima di Mezzo through cluttered terrain towards Forcella del Forame, less relevant on the pleasant final ascent to Cima Alta di Gleris, where it also doesn't follow the most comfortable passages; can be useful on descent.
At the summit of Cima Alta di Gleris, queen of the 7 Picche de Gleris, a logbook awaits with more entries than one might expect, to popular Monte Chiavals (furl. Cjavals) only a less demanding ridge remains. For the whole path to Cjavals I used about 4 hours at moderate pace, parked a bit lower because due to problematic section I wasn't sure about higher road usability (unjustified). At summit met only people on route - family with 2 kids - and descended via varied and quite attractive marked path to Forcella di Vecce, from there scree unmarked trail to junction with path 430 and along it to start.

In current conditions I warmly recommend the path to sufficiently experienced without hesitation; I'd say comparable in difficulty e.g. to Karnic sentiero alpinistico Piero Nobile via Cima dai Gjai or normal to Monte Siero (which has quite different character) or unmarked Cima Piccolo della Scalo in Western Julians; who managed any of these or similar shouldn't have big problems traversing (three of) seven peaks of Gleris massif. Regular reliable markings ease orientation and passage under peaks, still I'd definitely plan the tour in described direction.

Somehow like @djimuzl described, but also very exposed - the fall would end only about 80 m lower in the gully between Poncas. Last time I was there, a somewhat unreliable cable was hanging miserably from the upper ledge, which helps very little on descent.
This part is short, but one of the trickier officially marked ones here and advised against in wet - but not too bad and the further ascent to the summit is very nice and scenic.
Attaching a photo of the tricky part from a few years ago. Careful, otherwise go ahead boldly.

It's true I rarely report on ascents in our hills - especially since they seldom bring novelty to the forum - but given that reports on Pihavec ascents are lonely this year, and the peak itself much less visited lately, I'll treat myself to a slightly longer report this time.

Last Sunday during a stressful period (especially as lazier students got even more used to relaxed Covid-time approach :tongue) at the end of September I wanted a shorter, less ambitious outing, so headed to Pihavec, one of the last peaks above Kriški podi left in my collection (excluding the brr ridge between Goličica and Planja). Original traverse plan via lonelier route fizzled due to conditions, substitute was nice though. Description probably known to many, no harm providing it for a curious follower.

In the morning with companion who accompanied me to Luknja saddle, among numerous hikers heading to Triglav or Kriški podi, parked in Vrata and walked to the pass, where sunny morning was replaced by quite dense fog and strong wind gusts. Continued solo and despite poor visibility, when fog was only occasionally blown away by a stronger gust of wind, reached the famous gully in the west wall of Vrh nad Kamnom without major orientation problems, where Tina Mihelič, great Julian Alps expert, ended her life. Gully offers the most elegant crossing of the wall, but quite demanding - one few-meter passage requires climbing good II grade (guide states even II-III, which is too much here), the rest easier but still steep. For return on the same path, less experienced ones should not forget to take a piece of rope.
From gully continued on steep precipitous grasses and followed logical ascent course on grasses and scree between Pihavec and Vrh nad Kamnom, a bit below the Čez Kamen notch also spotted two lonely cairns. Near the notch joined the upper part of the marked path and easily reached spacious Pihavec summit.
No views on the lonely peak nor proper alpine atmosphere could be conjured, but occasionally Triglav and Razor group revealed above the fog. Before heading back, a guy surprised me - and I him - who supposedly had not experienced a visit here yet. Well, a look in the logbook showed that visits are not (anymore) so rare and that even that day we were not the only ones.

Based on assurances of the mountaineer I met and log entries suggesting passability of the path, from the notch I headed down the (still) marked path (original intent was descent via pathless south ridge over M. Pihavec to pl. Zajavor, but had to abandon due to very poor visibility and strong wind). Protections in upper descent part from notch partly damaged, but where really needed (crossing vertical jump secured with steps and cable) function satisfactorily; on the other hand terrain truly collapsed and ascent on this path in given conditions deadly dangerous. If at all, when descending solo where we can control the situation, use it only for descent, even better to avoid it until possible repair/reopening; given the route and broken terrain I doubt the latter is really worthwhile.

After descent over large scree field continued on easier pathless terrain under Bovški Gamsovec ridge to Dovška vratca (2180 m). Then it fully cleared up and I couldn't help but climb back up nearby Bovški Gamsovec for the trademark views and in good 20 minutes stood on the summit. On the way met quite a few hikers, on summit enjoyed and photographed wonderful views - with now fully clear view of Triglav north face - and was back at Dovška vratca in less than an hour; this time did not descend the otherwise very nice, already known path to Luknja but, since afternoon obligations were already urging me, quickly descended over Sovatna. In an hour and a half was in the car and heading back in weather hinting at possible evening precipitation.

Although the outing was meant as an easier tour after some more ambitious paths abroad, it turned out to be an interesting little tour in quite wild surroundings, even though located near Triglav promenades.

felix, thanks. The excursion is really gorgeous - panoramic, fun and excellently protected - but due to features of this part of Gail Alps and many interesting ferratas and easier climbs to summits above the hut, I'd recommend overnight in large pleasant Karlsbader Hütte and climb another hill (many routes in Lienz Dolomites, unofficial name or compact range name, described on portal).

On timing: we hurried due to afternoon obligations, so (especially on descent) speeded up a bit. Time on hribi.net is overstated - average hiker at least 1.5h to hut (official 2:15 too conservative), plus good hour steep to ferrata start. Ferrata airy and demanding spots, count at least 3h to Grosse Sandspitze - official traverse time, which we took at moderate pace. Views demand stops, add a bit.
Descent Ari Schubel to start in just over 2h, faster pace. Maybe count 1.5h descent to hut (recall official ascent on descent path 2.5h, exaggerated, descent fast except secured spots).
Reminder: small elev. diff. Karlsbader to Grosse Sandspitze (512m), but Panorama ridge has many descents to notches and reascents.

Happy trails,
Gašper

PS: topographic sketch of route with official times

Congratulations from me too - it's a truly adventurous ascent, satisfyingly ambitious! Tum tempts me, but the ridge continuation over Plaski Vogel seems like almost (too) honest a bite for a solo explorer, so kudos are even more deserved. The experience is also decently described and photo-documented.
Regarding names, in the end it's not that important, as they are labels often locally spiced. In this case the distribution seems fairly even, but in recent years the easier-sounding Vrh Labrja is preferred, used e.g. on all maps of the Surveying and Mapping Authority of Slovenia from 2000+ that I have at hand (Julijske Alpe - W part, Triglav National Park, probably also Julijci - Z which I don't have now), in most print, and also by M&M. So Žajtam's note is spot on.
Since both names without doubt refer to the same referent (once we figure out which hill it actually is , of course it doesn't matter.

Best,
Gašper

Kl. and Gr. Laserzkopf (2718 m), Galitzenspitzen (2710 m), Daumen (2720 m), Große Sandspitze (2772 m) - Gailtal Alps

A day after the ascent to Glödis (post at https://www.hribi.net/trenutne_razmere/aut/glodis_3206_m_visoke_ture_skupina_hochschober/57/6222) my friend and I set off on the beautiful grand via ferrata Panorama-Klettersteig, which traverses most of the central group of the Lienz Dolomites (which represent the highest and westernmost part of the Gailtal Alps), and ends at the monarch of the range, the 2772 m high Große Sandspitze [strictly speaking it's the "Sepp-Oberlechner-Gedächtnisweg" route, the Panorama-Klettersteig marking represents a complete circular traverse, where the mentioned route is combined with descent to the Karlsbader hut via easier "Gebirgsjägersteig" or "Ari-Schübel-Steig" - the site editor can correct the slip in the description].

Due to late return from Glödis and unfavorable road conditions we arrived late at the large parking lot at Lienzer Dolomitenhütte and reached the spacious Karlsbader Hütte at 2260 m already at night.
Next morning we headed to the start of the famous ridge via ferrata Panorama-Klettersteig, which leads across most of the central Lienz Dolomites group to Große Sandspitze. The modern via ferrata over the summits of Laserzkopf, Galitzenspitzen and Daumen is scenically very attractive, excellently routed and perfectly secured - as such it perhaps represents the most a mountaineer can do non-alpinistically in the Lienz Dolomites in one go.
Technically the via ferrata is not among the most difficult - the most demanding is the ascent to the bold tower Daumen, which at one spot (chimney) reaches C/D difficulty (which might even be slightly exaggerated, as the chimney is relatively unexposed and short, perhaps even more demanding are the ascent to Laserzkopf, the first part of the ascent to Daumen and descent from it) - otherwise the climbing grade is up to C. On the other hand it's a very long and airy secured path with regular ups and downs requiring sustained concentration; but perfectly secured and on surprisingly solid rock - good spirits during the traverse are aided by the wonderful deep views it constantly offers.

From the very panoramic range summit we quickly descended the much easier Ari Schübel path (just one annoying exposed traverse and B/C spot, the rest easier but crumbly) past the hut to the car. My friend then continued towards Innsbruck, I headed to evening work obligations.

Unlike the ascent to Glödis the day before, wonderful weather accompanied us this time, offering expansive views. Conditions are of course still summery, the Karlsbader hut is open until the end of the first weekend in October. The Lienz Dolomites are a popular and compact range that character-wise stands out quite a bit from the rest of the Gailtal Alps, thus surely offering the guest some attractive rewards for the effort invested.

Bottom line - in my personal conclusion of this year's high season in foreign mountains at the end of the calendar summer it was a fairly grand trip on two appealing paths, which due to their marked and secured nature were perhaps somewhat easier orientation-wise, but still very tempting and worth the somewhat longer drive. Recommended.

Thanks everyone, hope I manage to post pics of the continuation of this colorful journey today
Safe in the mountains,
Gašper

Lately I've been posting less frequently on the forum, which doesn't mean I'm not active in the mountains - just due to numerous work obligations it's hard to find time to describe things properly. In the coming weeks I might correct some sins (Hochalmspitze, Grossglockner, Krofička traverse etc.), but this time I'll manage to post a completely up-to-date report related to the beginning of this week that might give someone an idea for visiting the wonderful peaks we visited with a colleague.

I used the last two days of annual leave for peaks around Lienz. A good week earlier I planned to end the high alpine season in Switzerland with Finsteraarhorn, but had to postpone this tour for a year due to health and weather conditions, so for this year I said goodbye to foreign high mountains with a less demanding and more comfortable trip (though planned relatively complex).
With my friend we chose a somewhat unusual and complicated itinerary, which earned us quite a few extraordinary views and atmospheric moments - well, also some annoyance
On the first day, to admit, in the proverbial style of Slavic colleagues not too early we arrived at the entrance to the Hohe Tauern world and climbed the prominent, recognizable from afar Glödis (also Glödisspitze). The secured path leading to the summit along the southeast ridge since 2006 is technically not particularly demanding (mostly up to B, one spot maybe B/C, short climb above the bridge C, but can be avoided), but damp rocks carrying patches of fresh snow required cautious ascent. On the way we cross a very attractive suspension bridge, which due to the snow tongue and icy base below looked quite ominous.
After a stop at the summit in increasingly panoramic afternoon we slowly descended and on the way observed a "glory" (phenomenon similar to a rainbow). In the evening we were at the car and headed to the starting point towards the goal of the second day on the contrasting side south of Lienz.

Perhaps it's a bit premature to say that summer conditions are leaving - we went to the summit right after a short snowfall period, on the via ferrata only fresh wind-blown snow accompanied us, which after a few warmer days is probably gone now. Views from the top were more selective, Grossglockner which I visited in early September didn't peek out of the clouds; nevertheless the spacious summit offered a nice choice for the last days of calendar summer and the Schober group revealed itself somewhat shyly but quite majestically before us.

Finally some more technical notes: the trip is quite well known to Slovenes and due to the fairly straightforward Glödis path offers a comfortable opportunity for a one-day assault on an attractive three-thousander, but the drive to the Lienz area in East Tyrol is quite long. The road to Seichenbrunn compared to most similar Austrian starting points is locally a bit worse (that's why we had some unexpected problems on the late evening descent), but shouldn't be a serious obstacle even for low cars - it's not the Gößgraben road
Path to the via ferrata entrance at just over 2900 m is easy, long and somewhat monotonous, though through attractive landscape.
Flawlessly secured via ferrata is more akin to our high alpine secured paths than modern sport vias and apart from the attractive bridge crossing is skillfully routed over the most comfortable ridge passages.
Hut open until early October, but seems to have been somewhat deserted lately - we met no one on the entire path, towards the summit we broke the first tracks in the snow.

Thanks everyone, due to the pleasant experience it was a pleasure to provide the description and possible tip.
Such a traverse (and Nederkogel a day later) is also excellent preparation for demanding ascents that I still plan at the end of summer, e.g. Finsteraarhorn in Switzerland.

Perhaps just emphasis that when planning similar tours we have quite a lot of free hand and choice, because from the huts lead numerous well-marked paths to a multitude of peaks - in Karwendel, which is really an extensive range, there is an abundance of spires and towers between, say, 2300 and over 2700 m altitude, and unlike approaches at home even easier climbing paths are often marked.

Safe steps!

Thanks @palček plezalček! Always try to animate trips in words, especially when lesser known to Slovenes areas I've explored last two years.
Think those "panoramas" really show dynamics of nature and weather conditions accompanying me on this path.
Otherwise I too gladly read your path descriptions that often come in handy for planning future outings.
Best,
Gašper