Nadvojvoda - Recent messages

To the question whether the matter would go through, i.e. whether you are ready for the tour, actually no one can answer you with "yes/no" because we do not know you; you will have to decide for yourself. Accordingly I am neither encouraging nor discouraging you.

If you decide to try, then 1) prepare yourself as thoroughly as possible in terms of orientation, to the point that you know the entire passage from the saddle between Šplevto and D. Križ by heart, plus screenshots of the key spots on your phone, and 2) perhaps most importantly: do not force your way through, go there with the mentality that you will proceed only as far as you can safely go and that you are prepared to turn back at any point.

Regarding equipment: at the time I had two 30 m ropes with a colleague, but we did not need them, because the only place where abseiling would be required, which is also the technically most demanding detail of the route, can be avoided by a detour of about 10 m to the right around the ridge. It is located at roughly 2600 m, I would say from memory. But again, I cannot tell you now not to take a rope with you.

Regarding experience: before that I had already done several tours of this and higher difficulty, but one has to start somewhere. Kopiščarjeva is difficult but requires a different skill set than Oltar, because there you mainly need physical strength, not orientation skill, which is crucial on Oltar in addition to mastering I-II terrain.

Conditions yesterday, 29.5.26.

Plemenice:
From Luknja to approx. 2300 m there are only 3-4 short snow patches, all can be avoided with a light climbing detour. From there to the entrance below Triglavska škrbina there is still snow, but the terrain is gentle and therefore completely unproblematic. The only place where an ice axe would come in handy, but I didn't use it, is the snow patch below the škrbina. I reached the summit completely without using winter equipment, but since I don't know the reader, I still don't recommend going on the route without it.

Tominškova:
The descent over the snow-covered Triglavski podi to the junction for Tominškova is quick and unproblematic, while Tominškova itself has two snow patches: one at approx. 1950 m and is the only place on yesterday's route where safe passage without an ice axe is impossible; the other is quite low on the path, hardly worth mentioning due to the ease of crossing.

Is there anything walked from Planika over the saddle?

Does anyone have any knowledge of the existence of a possible passage between Špik and MMP that is not that direct crossing along the ridge, which Juš wrote about a few years ago, but say some somewhat manageable pathless crossing?

The idea is to connect Špik with Oltar, where this part between Špik and MMP is currently the only unknown.

What about after Findenegg, no traces that anyone has walked?

Thanks for info. Regards

opazovalec, I'm curious how you put together/got to picture #1, or maybe you use some app on your phone for that?

30 m is surely enough, 20 might be a bit tight...
good luck!

lijaneja,
last year I went along this ridge and would like to pass on a couple of orientation tips.

This descent down the gully I'd rate as the most awkward part of the route, more than the horse. At its top there's an unmistakable peg through which you thread the rope for abseil. Harness absolutely necessary.
If you look at the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sXI9CY7YS8 second 0:51 is the branch-off for this gully, unmistakable.

I'd add that Mihelič in Slovenske stene writes that you can descend from Rinka to the lowest point of the ridge directly down the scree and no need to divert into this gully. I don't know if that's easier or harder variant than the one through the gully.

When you return to the scree, at the point in the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZUw6zGzRZw at second 7:01 you can bypass the spot also on the left side, easier.

The horse can be crossed by riding or by descending prb two meters into the right flank as shown in the video shared by zokipoki.

LP

I asked the student working at the parking lot today (15.7.) about the regime: a possible half fine is 20, daily parking 25. And there were no wardens today.

15.7. bare, snow patch at 2300 right by the path, can bypass it

I went on 17.09. from V Koncu via Žmavcarje to Skuta. The road from KB is normally drivable, no snow.

Thanks

Has anyone gone via Žmavčarje in the last month? What's the condition of the path?

Thanks to everyone for the info