gregcs1 - Recent messages

Today Domn and I climbed Kranjska Poč. Conditions were not good at all, the hardest pitches are those rated the lowest. Good training for the mind and drytooling. We climbed for 8 hours.

Some pics

Today two AO-NM teams climbed the mentioned thing. The route disappointed me a bit, after all Mihelič's hymns of praise, as it's pure rubble. In Debelak's the rock is much better. Nevertheless, the route is Zaplotnik's, and obligatory for an alpinist like reading his Path. The middle part is quite demanding for orientation, but you can follow Mihelič nicely. We didn't, so instead of the praised IV+ slab in the eighth pitch, we climbed some slanted rightward upside-down rubble (pegs). The rest we somehow got right and topped out in a good six hours.
Pictures when I get home. (if I don't forget )

Thanks for the answer. This M&M log is quite colorful

Nowadays on these social networks it's really impossible to get some info without arguing with someone.
It's completely irrelevant what difficulty someone can climb if they don't know how the specific spot looks or what difficulty awaits them there. Even Knez, Česen or Kozjek, who climbed multiple routes in the Face in one day up and down, had mostly climbed those routes before, so they knew what challenges awaited them. There are very few onsight soloists, and even they mostly climb upwards, not downwards. Therefore, since some of you have already been there, I'm asking if anyone knows or can approximately estimate the difficulty of those spots (or their bypasses) where one rappels. The question was in no way posed as a provocation or joke and I really don't know why I shouldn't be allowed to ask it if I can downclimb a IV. What if it's a V there?

@jax

As for downclimbing (be it in a crag or in the mountains), it is one of the best trainings for both movement and psyche. Try it, I recommend

Anyone who's been there and knows the difficulty of the spot you rappel over. Since I haven't been there, I'm asking. I've climbed some stuff, but not expert enough to judge from photo if downclimbable or not.

No, I'm asking seriously. Downclimbing a good IV is no problem for me, and exposure no issue either.

Nice. Would it go without rope?

It's really fun to drop by hribi.net every now and then for a little laugh

If you use the same rope winter and summer, on rock sooner or later you'll rub off the impregnation and the rope will repel water poorly in winter. Helps a bit if the core is also impregnated (full dry), but no miracle. You'll end up realizing you need two ropes, one for winter one for summer.

Everything is possible until a "situation" comes. Then you quickly realize that certain knowledge would be useful, which you get in alpinist school. To all ambitious visitors of four-thousanders I recommend visiting a nearby alpinist section, where you'll surely get both knowledge and company for such feats.

Such fun reading on hribi.net not for a long time! So that this super funny debate doesn't die, I'll throw a bone to gnaw too. I climbed the route solo, freely and it seems totally easy to me
Now hit it!

Široka peč - 1928 (Zlata naveza)

If you have too much money...
link

Last weekend from Vrata via Plemenice to Triglav, and back to valley via Prag. All in low approach shoes (Scarpa Zen Pro). Awesome, no problems, front part allows fairly precise climbing, and over the scree below Begunjski vrh it went pretty good too. Just give them another chance, you'll see you'll get used to it. (unless you're really prone to ankle injuries)

Last weekend from Vrata via Plemenice to Triglav, and back to valley via Prag. All in low approach shoes (Scarpa Zen Pro). Awesome, no problems, front part allows fairly precise climbing, and over the scree below Begunjski vrh it went pretty good too. Just give them another chance, you'll see you'll get used to it. (unless you're really prone to ankle injuries)

@ajda

Everything in its time

Works works. Thanks for the congrats and nice wishes. But... it's just the Slovenska route...