neph - Recent messages

We're planning to climb in Klemenča peč this weekend, so I'm interested in the conditions. I assume there's no snow? What about the wall itself, does it generally dry quickly?

Thank you very much in advance for the replies!

I've reached the point where I've decided to buy my first climbing shoes. I've read some tips on the internet (mostly from forums), but they aren't consistent. What should I pay attention to when buying? Some recommend ~a size smaller, others don't... Today I tried two of the cheapest models in Kibuba one size and 1.5 sizes smaller than my foot, and it squeezed me quite hard especially on the big toe area. I know climbing shoes usually stretch about a size, so I'm in doubt... Some say for beginners it's better to buy comfortable ones, i.e. large enough climbing shoes...

http://www.grs-koroska.si/razmere-na-zelo-zahtevni-poti-na-raduho/

Some places organize solo sport climbing schools, where climbing long sport routes is also covered. Anyway, I doubt that all necessary procedures or maneuvers that are good to know for climbing long (alpinistic) routes are shown there. I suggest you join one of the alpinism schools, the winter part is also very interesting.

Ps. A literally short course doesn't count, because it's a pretty complex set of knowledge.

This can happen with pricier shirts too. Follow the above tips. Otherwise these shirts from Lidl, Hofer (Crane, Crivit etc.) are quite good quality, especially for the price. They serve me well, some already for several years.

Especially in hard winter it is occasionally plowed only to the memorial for fallen partisans. There we turn right into the forest, cross to the meadow and over it (usually trodden) and join the path from karavla. Thus we extend the tour a bit, but the first part is nicely gentle. Since I know this path, I rarely start from karavla.

Very nice, Stanetova chimney is quite a fun route!

I confirm the statements of the previous women. But it's a very nice hike, I recommend it!

Kita, I think it's much more problematic that you "feel like" writing essays like your last one. I expressed my opinion in a cultured way, the word you hung onto (slip) was meant in completely different contexts, which I presume is clear to every averagely informed forum user. Well, since it's not clear to you, I'll exceptionally make an effort and explain the matter additionally.

First I wrote that in my opinion the most "dangerous" sections are those that are not secured, then I gave an example on the path to Prisojnik. That you can't afford a slip many other places too is obvious, I mentioned it only as an example on the path to Prisojnik, which is not secured but is exposed (to support my original claim regarding sections without cables, pegs etc.).

I hope this message explains it to you and that there won't be more similar comments that ruin the atmosphere on this forum.

ps. The purpose of my original post was not to dissuade anyone from the path, it was just an objective description of the conditions on the path.

Kopiščarjeva path is definitely very demanding, especially compared to other secured paths. To those asking about difficulty or not fully confident in their abilities I recommend self-belaying. Still I think that usually the most "critical" sections are those without cables. I think someone on the forum already mentioned - last year the descent along the ridge to the window seemed quite awkward to me at one spot (if I can say so) - without pegs, crumbly rock and highly exposed- you definitely can't afford a slip there. Of course it's just my subjective experience, maybe someone else sees nothing demanding there (maybe I positioned awkwardly and nowadays wouldn't see any problem).

If you're looking for the optimal option, i.e. as it's usually done (ascend the harder route and descend the easier one), best to go from Kot to Debeleg kamen and above it turn right to the secured path to Vrbanove Špice. From Visoka Vrbanova špica descend back towards Kot to the junction for the "climbing route" to Rjavina, ascend it and descend via the ridge path to Staničev dom. Of course with this route you traverse from Staničev dom to the junction for the climbing route on Rjavina twice and thus extend the tour, but it's certainly the most comfortable option.

Another quite good option in my opinion is ascent to Rjavina via "climbing route", descent via ridge path to Staničev dom and then descent to the valley via Vrbanove špice. Of course everything depends on experience - if you're confident on secured paths you can go in all directions, but all mentioned routes are quite demanding and exposed in places.

Read previous comments in this thread. But at Rjavina I'd point out one thing - the last descent before the summit is secured only with pegs, so self-belaying is out. You have to traverse it up and down.

Jedriličar, thanks for explanation, found also official Mammut explanation, adding as interesting:


"The CE- Standard for Half- and Twin Ropes is different regarding the testing: twin ropes are always tested both pairs clipped into one biner (80kg mass, 12 falls), half ropes are... tested as a single rope with a 55kg mass (5 falls required). So the standard for half ropes is tougher than the one for twin ropes as half ropes also offer a great safety margin as a single rope (only to be used to belay two second climbers from an anchor). Therefore, half ropes can always be used in twin rope technique as well (whereas the other way round, twin ropes can not be used in half rope technique). The impact force is not affected by clipping one or two half ropes through the same biner."

So we got to the bottom of it.

Jedriličar, some time ago I read articles on the topic but can't find them now... At the start we understood correctly, but according to my info, twin rope shouldn't be used as half, because advantages of twin are lost and problems with too high impact force arise. Not sure if clipping twin into same quickdraw is dangerous or not, so correct me if wrong.

In practice many clip twin together into same device. Personally wouldn't use twin as half.

ps. Juš, good rope right?

Jedriličar, as far as I know, half ropes (those marked 1/2) are not clipped into the same karabiner, although many do it. They are clipped alternately, you can clip one several times in a row, but never together.
But there are ropes certified as double and twin at same time - those can be used as you like. I agree with the rest written.

ps. Primoza, not sure exactly for what purpose you use just one half rope, in principle both are mandatory. One strand only for belaying another (only half used for three-person team, twin never).

We walked the mentioned path with my brother on Sunday and Monday. Started in Kot and continued to Lower and Upper Vrbanova špica. Path well secured throughout. From Upper Vrbanova špica we descended a bit above Dom Valentina Staniča and branched right towards Cmir. Then back to the hut, refreshment, picking up stamp cards and also afternoon-evening jump to Triglav. On the top of the father crowds of hikers and "hikers" gathered both days - many without helmets, some in sneakers. Also on top obviously new fashion of signing on rocks ( ). Around 8pm we drank deserved beer at Kredarica and descended back towards Dom Valentina Staniča. In morning we descended to Pekel and ascended secured path to top of Rjavina, descended via ridge path and on to Begunjski vrh. At hut exchanged stamped cards for socks and symbolic recognition and happily descended back to Kot. All I can say is that the mentioned connecting path is highly recommended, especially for those who like secured paths and crowds not their thing.

The Hojnik Path is great as a variation for the ascent to Lanež or further to Raduha, but I'd really like to know which specimen lacking sense of aesthetics marked it so ugly with red spray. If anything, small dots (or figures) would be quite sufficient, definitely markings are not needed in the exit gully where orientation is more than clear.

By the way, on the video I noticed the marking on the larch "Lanež (left)" above the hut, which wasn't there this time last year.

I got the Alpina Lhotse model a bit more than half a year ago for just over 100eur. For that money I think it's really an excellent buy, but I can't predict what will happen with the boot in the future. For now I can praise it more than criticize. The boot in my opinion is super for winter hiking. It's not overly warm, gets damp on the inside after some time. I tested it in wet, snow and dry. Personally for summer hiking it doesn't suit me (already because of the weight!), so I use it only in winter. Of course it's not a top exclusive winter boot - that needs to be assumed from the start. Given that we're on a mountaineering forum, I think it will serve well for winter hikes for most.