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Begunjščica

benjamin71. 01. 2026 14:09:47

Šentanc icy, what kind of crampons? Maybe a photo? Thanks.

benjamin71. 01. 2026 14:09:52

Šentanc icy, what kind of crampons? Maybe a photo? Thanks.

garmont18. 02. 2026 15:35:14

Today up the central route and down via Šentanec. We were one of the few, if not the only walkers on the mountain. big grin

Conditions TOP, but tomorrow everything will be different rolling eyes

Regards

Lower down it was post-holing, higher up much better.

All waterlogged. At the start ski pole tracks, in between super hard snow.

The exit due to avalanches is a bit more to the left than usual.

(+9)

Tomco18. 02. 2026 18:55:14

Looks great! Thanks for the report, nice to see after a longer “dry” period without reports from the high mountains (justifiably so). smile

(+2)

seba2322. 02. 2026 01:00:45

Hi.
Up to where is the road passable from Begunje to Planinica hut (turn to Roblekov dom)?
Is the hiking trail from 'Gostišče Draga' to Roblekov dom passable?
Are proper crampons needed or just mini spikes?
Thanks

Tomco28. 02. 2026 15:18:36

Today 28.2. via the Y gully to Begunjščica.

In the morning snow to Zelenica like concrete, even higher it didn't sink much. The daily spring cycle works nicely.

Conditions in the Y gully are very good. We entered via the steeper right variant, up to the ridge via the left branch. Tracks all the way to the top and not difficult. On many sections we intentionally went next to the tracks where the snow was nice.

Because it was relatively easy, we went back to check another variant, for which I mistakenly thought at the time that it is the left branch (also one passerby mistakenly confirmed to me that the left branch goes there). In fact we found ourselves in a variant that goes more to the left towards Trolk. Uh there it was completely different. Right in the steep section between the rocks was wet slushy snow, completely useless, we just floundered to the rocks. There was no sense to continue like that and we turned back. Followed some displeasure from the better half due to the annoying butt descent in the wet snow and boycott of the repeated ascent via the right branch to reach the top. So we just descended back via Y. As usual, over a beer at the hut everything calmed down. velik nasmeh

Bottom line, conditions in the gullies of Begunjščica are very good. Visitors report that it is also excellent in Lenuhova.

Snow holds well. Of course there are also nice steps.

Take the right variant for entry into the Y.

Conditions mostly excellent. Photo at entry. Beautiful views of surrounding rock towers.

Traverse where we join the normal left access.

Here we head right, which is correct. Caution - if you turn left here, you won't be in the Y couloir anymore and higher up you'll find yourself in a very difficult terrain.

Not too demanding, if you hold the pole one ice axe is currently sufficient.

Then back down to check the variant I mistakenly thought was the left branch. Traverse after the fork.

View back; we are already completely left of any Y variant.

A little further the snow was still good.

Then right at the most difficult part the snow no longer held well. Exactly in the gully between rocks it was the worst. Here we went a bit higher but turned back before the bend. Butt descent was very awkward.

(+6)

Tomco28. 02. 2026 18:01:12

EDIT: in the meantime I found out that the variant we did today is not the right but the left branch.

Then this other variant that we additionally tried is not the left branch but some more climbing-oriented route even more to the left. Although they told us on site that that is supposedly the left branch. zmeden

Can someone help correct possible confusion based on the pictures? So that I don't mislead or spread disinformation with the publication.

Thanks!

(+2)

turbo28. 02. 2026 19:35:42

Long ago I was often in the Y, usually left exit, then skiing down via Šentanc. I also went right, I think only once, I remember it was unpleasant for me, I don't know if because of bad conditions or exposure, but it's decades ago.

This is good to read => see attached photo: https://www2.arnes.si/~mcuder/vrh/veliki_vrh_b.html

Y Gully (IV-, above S5)

The gully splits below the summit and has two exits to the ridge (hence the name Y). The ski one is the left arm of the Y, but the right one has also been skied.

Similar to the Central gully to the cirque end and then right in the middle of the cirque end into the gully. A bit higher the gully widens, the narrower continuation opens a bit right of the plumb line. Higher the gully widens again. Straight above us is the summit rock step, left and right we notice two possible exits. The left one is not the most visible, since the exit itself to the ridge cannot be seen from here.

The right exit leads to a side ridge, along which we reach the main ridge at ridge elevation 2035m (a bit larger bump east of the main summit). This exit is less skiable because the side ridge is harder to ski.

The left exit is unclear from below, but higher it nicely opens a passage to the ridge. Several variants are even possible (at least two). The easiest is if we hold to the left side (always straight in the gully) and then under the summit rocks traverse to the right (good 10m below the ridge) and climb up onto the ridge.

(+1)

garmont28. 02. 2026 19:48:52

For me personally the right branch is easier than the left one. There was once an 8mm rope up in the rock of the left branch that helped… nasmeh

(+1)

parenzo28. 02. 2026 20:46:16

At the right one there is only one possibility. Get to the little ridge. At the left one, the exit possibilities are “unlimited”, or depending on conditions, or how it is “filled”, which significantly affects the difficulty.
On 16.02.2020 I posted this photo above the exit from the left branch.
Back then I just went straight.

(+1)

Hike0028. 02. 2026 21:37:39

Hi, on Friday I made the track on this "left" branch, only that this is not the left branch, but a route more to the left of it. Maybe someone knows the name of the route? For easier orientation I attach gps track and link to the video, I have fewer photos though. I think the link will be active only 3 days, because I don't have a premium account. 🙂
https://we.tl/t-61tO0p7CKr

(+1)

Tomco1. 03. 2026 09:40:17

Thanks for the answers. Yes, into this other one we then went on the tracks that Hike00 made the day before. At the place on my picture 6 instead of continuing right along the Y route, you branch off into the gully even more left and then this is no longer the Y route. At first it is relatively easy and filled, then from one overhang onwards you find yourself on very demanding rocky terrain.

No wonder we turned back. I have corrected my post and the comments under the pictures.

Trobec5. 03. 2026 23:16:06

Again skiing in suboptimal conditions (icy, already quite dark) but in the end still glad that I went... even if the others canceled jezik

https://trobec.blogspot.com/2026/03/turna-posihtna-begunjscica-532026.html

(+2)

Trobec5. 03. 2026 23:45:47

Hm... while reading the above discussion I myself for a moment wasn't 100% sure anymore if it really was the left branch back then (page 59)... or "left left" zadrega

Tomco6. 03. 2026 17:33:16

Since I have a fresh memory... velik nasmeh

From the pictures, back then (post on page 59) they were in the classic left branch, although in much more demanding conditions than current ones.

This "left left" ( velik nasmeh

) is something completely different...

(+1)

Trobec6. 03. 2026 21:00:19

Well, I'm finally reassured that it really was the left branch velik nasmeh

Yes, conditions back then really weren't the easiest... on the repetition the next year it was significantly easier.

(+1)

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