| jerque16. 07. 2025 12:20:11 |
After a few "scouting missions" the decision to tackle Begunjščica finally ripened. Circular tour from Ljubelj past Zelenica, descent to Preval (or almost everyone says Prevalo) and back via Bornova path. For those who don't want to read "novels", let's say right away that no special features were noticed (damaged paths etc.), but IMO not the best idea for a family outing with kids. Anyway, only later I realized I finally joined the "2000 club"  (if we don't count skiing in Austrian Turas and wandering the much higher Bolivian Altiplano).
Around 5:30 am the free parking right before Ljubelj tunnel was still empty, but during changing two more cars arrived. On return approx. 7 hrs later it was full. At the paid gravel parking also on return only a few vehicles; noticed some hikers parking right behind Kompas Shop, but didn't check privacy or payment.
Between Vrtača hut and Dom na Zelenici it is easy to stray onto side paths that suddenly end in scree or on Šentanski plaz. Did I miss a sign, or did chamois (first time seen outside zoos) jumping elegantly on scree and watching biped "intruders" distract too much?
From Dom na Zelenici (unaware how close to the summit already in straight line  ) the other "Ljubelj folks" took other paths and I had the whole way to Veliki vrh to myself. Partly lucky, hard to imagine meeting oncoming anywhere. Here I really started appreciating good shoes with Vibram soles. But this north face of Begunjščica must be some "remote hole". Neither GPS nor Slovenian A1 network worked (unlike Austrian; if calling 112 by chance, probably get Austrians who couldn't help much?). But views are divine, first pointy Vrtača appears, later Stol, from many spots also to Bled Lake. Some nicely visible alpine pasture from "bird's eye" at valley bottom between Begunjščica and Vrtača, from where cow bells were heard, probably Smokuška planina? The only thing is despite initial climb past Dom na Zelenici (watch, rocks dry slowest here after rain!) Begunjščica peaks just won't "lower", crossing wide Smokuški plaz even lose some height. After crossing first "zajla" on very steep section. Warning, not fixed at many points, more like slack rope. Second "zajla" just before junction with Roblek path, but IMO totally unnecessary, would be better elsewhere on just walked path.
Further path first few meters even nice and easy, no lack of views, esp. towards Dobrča, Begunje and Bled, sometimes across ridge to Stol and Vrtača. But soon rougher again, marked by wood blazes but needs careful steps. Several times it seems almost at top, but just "false summit" (one might be Srednji vrh), path bypasses it and higher one behind. Well, after some "false hopes" finally properly marked Veliki vrh. Interestingly despite "late" arrival (around 9am), quite a while no living soul there, except sheep grazing nearby. With binoculars scanned nearby Stol, definitely one of busier peaks, if anyone in view would surely see. Within half hour suddenly hikers pouring from west (Roblek).
Besides other peaks from summit and later east of it a group of "peaks" towards NE caught attention, somehow reminds of Tre Cime, one of most photographed Dolomites motifs. Wonder if they even have names, probably still under Begunjščica?
As mentioned, near Veliki vrh sheep grazing unsupervised no fences anywhere. So if going there with four-legged companion, be prepared no "stall". Now looking back at recent pics of south face from nearby Dobrča or Šentanski vrh, can't figure how they got sheep up there. Actually they misled me in the end. Until last didn't know if descend to Preval via most direct path or via Roblek then difficult path. Seemed sheep belong to Preval, must be some not too hard path to valley (sheep don't look as bouncy as chamois), plus considerable traffic from west, so chose first option.
First part of this path (Kalvarija?) actually nice and scenic, along ridge over some summits (one has memorial plaque for glider pilot Primož Kampič), maps mark only elevations not names. But nice ends too soon, somewhere under Begunjska Vrtača very nasty section on very steep slope, first rocks, at treeline roots and mud. Especially drags on and on. Interestingly many hikers met greeted in English, later recognized by outfit. Shoes maybe appropriate, otherwise mostly "city" clad or for Bled stroll. Hmm, not saying for hills around Bohinj, Kranjska Gora, Vršič, Soča..., but why is Begunjščica so touristy? Plus path not only nasty but per seen least "instagramable" and mostly viewless, tourist holy grail Bled Lake visible similarly from much easier hills around Begunje or Dobrča.
Already on last part heard visitors of obviously busy Preval hut, Bornova path to Ljubelj after all endured was real balm. Initial part some traffic, again tourists slight majority, from junction where narrowest starts luckily no opposite traffic.
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