Slovenian Mountain Trail
Maribor - Slovenj Gradec
Between Christmas and New Year 2025, we set off on the Slovenian Mountain Trail from Maribor to Slovenj Gradec.
First day (afternoon): Maribor - Mariborska Koča (closed) - Ruška Koča on Areh
We take the train to Maribor Tezno station and continue on foot to the trail's starting point. We start hiking around three, as the sun slowly sets behind the hill. An idyllic winter walk follows amid sunset colors. Spruces are covered in a layer of white snow. Then darkness, cold, we barely see the markers, stumbling through snow that sometimes sinks in, sometimes slips. We pass tourist settlements and ski resorts decorated for pre-New Year. A bit off the ski area, peace returns, snow underfoot and a clear starry sky above us. Finally, idyllic Areh - behind the little church, Orion and the Pleiades shine... The hut is closed, but they leave us an open room where, tired, we eat dinner from our backpacks.
Second day: Areh - Koča na Pesku (Rogla)
The original plan was different, but over breakfast in the hut, we decide to go only to Rogla today. Kilometers in snow pass more slowly indeed. On Areh, we meet many skiers and very few hikers. As a result, most of the path to Šumik Waterfall is untrodden. Breaking trail on the mountain path takes us considerable time and energy. We meet almost no one on the way, and it feels like we're alone in the beautiful winter forest. Later, we opt for the snow-covered road, as most of the mountain trail is blanketed in deep snow and we don't want night to catch us again. Toward Klopni Vrh (which doesn't feel like a peak to us) and then to Rogla, the path is easier and faster. Except the last kilometer on the traffic road, we meet no one, enjoying the peace and quiet of remote trails.
Third day: Rogla - Lovrenška Lakes - Ribniška Koča
In the hut, we eat breakfast and pack sandwiches for the trail. We smile at the crowd on the ski slope as we head past toward Lovrenška Lakes. That day brings many more views for us, including mountains, as more paths are open. More people today, so the trail is mostly trodden. Snow and sun create winter idyll. With time to spare, we visit snow-covered Ribniško Lake and watch sunset from Jezerski Vrh. After a delicious dinner in the hut, we play a game of chess.
Fourth day: Ribniška Koča - Slovenj Gradec
Though we like sleeping in, today we start before dawn, rewarded with stunning views. The path to Črni Vrh glows orange in the sun. We descend to Grmovškov dom, drinking coffee amid skier crowds. We continue along the ski slope, breaking trail again as the mountain path is untrodden. Weather changes, and by Koča pod Kremžarjevim Vrhom, we get some snow from the sky. The hut has a cozy mountaineering vibe; we eat lunch and descend the steep icy path to Slovenj Gradec - the only section needing microspikes these days. Some expected trouble returning by public transport on the holiday, with few buses. Satisfied, we head home already planning next stages of the Slovenian Mountain Trail.