Now on "easy" as čara would say... I rarely post from hikes, but that time, really, it wasn't a hike across Pohorje, but through Pohorje. Three days, basically along the transversal, but multiple detours and zigzag, slowly, visiting all interesting points. Friday: start at five along Šumljakova (transversal), visit Bolfenka, view from Cigelnice, Mariborska, Areh, Žigartov vrh, Bajgot, Koča pri Šumiku, return via Kmečki vrh, Trije studenci and Črno jezero to Osankarica (30 km; sleep; thanks Julius for the tip!). Saturday: Poh. battalion, Tiho jezero, Klopni vrh (and hut), Pesek, Rogla, RTC, Lovr. lakes, Ribniško jezero, Ribniška koča (sleep; 31 km). Sunday: Črni vrh, Pungart, V. Kopa, M. Kopa, Partizanski dom, Koča Planinc, Kremžarjev vrh (and hut), Slovenj Gradec (22 km). Total about 83 km.
First day: nice and pleasant, even across ski slopes. Around Areh very nice landscape. From Bajgot to Osankarica (with Črno jezero) veeeeeery nice, really pleasant, fairy-tale path. And what to say about the section from Poh. battalion to Tiho jezero and from Klopni vrh to Zgornja brva (second day)? Often in life I've caught myself saying that "this and that" is the most beautiful seen so far in the mountains. But this path is really something special. "Fairy tale" and "paradise" are insufficient words for that experience of spruce forests, streams, moss, wonderful morning shadows, soft paths, green grass. Very, very nice also all the way to Ribniška koča (with Ribniško jezero), then instead of chamois to Črni vrh follows a wild tent settlement that totally surprised me. Campers felt completely safe. Police, inspection...? Ski areas around Kop are panoramic, but that's not my type of path I enjoy. At Mali Kopa this walk through Pohorje can end. If it weren't for that beautiful Koča Planinc, that western part of Pohorje wouldn't be worth revisiting for me with its nasty, rocky, hot and unnaturally routed paths.
Huts: All praise for the friendly caretakers at Koča Planinc. At the top of the list is the lovely hostess at Koča na Klopnem vrhu where I smelled the best food aroma in my life. Unfortunately couldn't wait for that incredible hidden mushroom goulash, next time... No caretaker disappointed me, the hostess at Mariborska koča was also lovely. Actually at some huts you couldn't even reach the caretaker; only waiters, like at Pesek (where they don't know how to show the transversal stamp) and Pungart. Worth trying cheap overnight at these two homes, as they are still officially mountaineering stations. I think not for long, as they turn into pure sports "entertainment" and "outdoor activity" destinations (Pungart looks like a 5* hotel, Pesek will become that in two years after planned reconstruction; yes, also Korošica). At Ribniška koča they lovingly (in writing) ask you to report if you'll take food from your backpack (who knows why, maybe to chase you outside the hut, fresh air?), at Kremž. vrh the caretakers don't know the bus schedule in Sl. Gradec (which you could throw a stone at from above). At RTC there are stories of building a 110m skyscraper(!??!?!). Koča pri Šumiku - closed! Caretakers on vacation, during July weekend?!? At Osankarica prices very reasonable, though not official mountaineering station (Wiener, salad, two beers, tea, overnight in heated room, shower: 36 €).
Paths are generally well maintained, especially with those new signposts (a bit worse only in the western part). But the marked times are very unusual. Although not a runner, not a slow hiker either, those times were regularly unreachable. Example at Klopni vrh: "Pesek 2 h", 10 min longer "2,15 h", 20 min longer "2,45 h"?!? Also for height markings on signposts it's unclear what they mark: sometimes two signs with different heights on the same post, but sometimes it's clear it's the height of the destination, not the standpoint. Signposts are nicely placed to Partizanski dom, then like on Julijci, where it's no longer known that some transversal exists (also on maps). Regarding the transversal route, unclear why it doesn't go through Cigelnice, why unnecessary detour from behind Mariborska koča to the ridge and especially why between Bajgot and Pesek it doesn't go neither shortest (past Trije žeblji) nor nicest path (Črno jezero-Tiho jezero-Klopni vrh). Then it doesn't cover Rogla, V. Kopa, M. Kopa, Kremžarjev vrh. The part I don't like is from Tinčeva bajta to Bajgot and recommend detour right on the road, as well as detour to Koča Planinc instead of direct to Brneško sedlo. Critical (completely unmarked) spot is descent to road (in reverse direction end of road) at position of former Koča na Klopnem vrhu (near partisan monument).
If we take as reference the new tourist map Pohorje 1:40000 (without year of edition), bigger errors between Bolfenk and Mariborska koča, at descent from Žigartov vrh (path goes further west and makes big detour), at Bajgot (wrongly marked junctions) and marked (but non-existing) marked paths on V. and M. Kopa on the map.
Yes, from SG on Sunday bus to Dravograd at 15:10, connection to MB at 17:40. Direct SG-MB at 19:20, also SG-CE. Data on internet for SG on "avtobusne vozovnice" site.
End of hike (all to Maribor) in pleasant company of Lucija and.... yes, Bojan. Nice greetings if they read these impressions...