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Mangart (Via Italiana)

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nadka6. 08. 2012 11:40:24
What are the conditions like today... and a route for ''normal'' hikers ... they say they recommend the Italian route more??!! Please share your opinion, and some good advice..
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neph6. 08. 2012 11:51:01
My advice is to carefully read the descriptions of approaches to Mangart on this website and then decide which route to choose.

The Italian route to Mangart runs from the saddle to the summit and is the easiest approach to Mangart, harder is the Slovenian route, where a via ferrata set can already be useful for less experienced.

Via Italiana ends at the saddle, so you have to reach the summit via one of the mentioned routes anyway. As mentioned many times, this route is suitable only for experienced mountaineers without fear of heights, and self-belaying is mandatory.

Good luck!
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nadka6. 08. 2012 11:55:05
Thanks for info.. hope the Italian route is marked so we don't ''stray'' onto some ferrata ??
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neph6. 08. 2012 12:20:22
The branch for Italian route is well marked, above the saddle keep left! mežikanje
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pohodni13. 08. 2012 21:51:52
Despite slightly numb legs from cycling from Kranjska Gora to Mangart Saddle, my son and I joined my wife for the ascent via Via Italiana to Mangart. Stinging nettles on the descent to Bivouac Nogara ensured that the legs weren't numb for long. Down there we equipped ourselves with via ferrata sets and helmets and queued up at the start of the climbing section. There were two groups ahead of us. The first one counted about fifteen members who couldn't scramble over the initial part and then through the hole. Despite near despair, we finally got our turn too. The first group of four members kindly let us pass already in the initial part. There was more grumbling from the second, larger group of foreigners since we cut in among them just when they were resting, but with a bit of grumbling they let us pass anyway. After climbing the ferrata we didn't continue to the summit, but returned to the car and packed up home.
About the ferrata I must say that it is very nicely routed, mostly running slightly to the left, so rocks don't fall on those walking below us. There is plenty of ironwork, almost too much, since the rock is also solid, there are also plenty of natural holds and steps. The exposure of the route doesn't bother me, as it is similar on almost all ferratas. Actually it doesn't matter if there is 50 or 500 meters of air below me.
In short, it is a pleasure to climb it and I will surely return sometime.
descent towards Bivacco Nogara1
he's comfy on the rock2
entrance to the ferrata3
with backpack hard to pass through the hole4
it is steep5
in between also some greenery6
we squeezed between them and overtook them later7
some got stuck here8
always present spectators on the balcony9
Here the depth is the greatest.10
A couple more steps and the end.11
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TanjaM17. 08. 2012 18:51:15
On Wednesday, my boyfriend and I went to Mangart via Italiana, then Slovenian, descent via Italian. To M. saddle around 6h, descended to bivak (a shortcut exists, no need to bivak, but we didn't know, first time). A bit nervous before the ferrata, read scary stuff, in the end really cool, passed quickly because always focused on climbing and enjoyment nasmeh. Regarding exposure, deliberately looked down, test - nice views mežikanje. Not so dramatic as expected. Quite proud of ourselves. Nice day too cool
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legenda17. 08. 2012 21:28:23
On Wednesday, Mangart was really besieged from all sides. We with our granddaughter went up the Slovenian route and descended the Italian one.
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5
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urbancek18. 08. 2012 19:46:59
Yes, only when one ascends to Mangart anywhere from the "valley" does one feel, as you said, the "dimensions" of that mountain. Otherwise, you can imagine how much better Mangart would be without road access. The summit would by no means be so crowded, as everyone would have to make a proper effort for it. But the devaluation of mountains has already been discussed elsewhere...

Regards!nasmeh
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MANGRT27. 08. 2012 21:28:10
24.8. from saddle to gully to ferrata entry. No crowd. After climbing to Slovenian and summit. Fog on summit was coming and going, as were glories. Descent via Italian.
WARNING TO READERS: NEW PEGS ON FERRATA VIA ITALIANA, POURED WITH CONCRETE MASS, ARE STARTING TO LOOSEN. IN ANOTHER YEAR THEY CAN BE PULLED OUT.eek
Preparations at the entrance1
Sun from behind Ponca2
From the hole3
4
Lots of overlapping5
On the most beautiful part6
One for mommy7
Continuation on the Slovenian route8
Through the gate9
Summit soon10
But no glory11
12
Fleeing from the heat13
Safe to the valley14
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Andrej529. 08. 2012 21:20:04
After long postponement, worries, fear, preparation, I finally managed the Via Italiana ferrata too. Started during the day from Belopeška Lakes. Not many hikers heading to Via Italiana, I counted five of us at early hour. To Bivak Nogara (cca 1900m) the path is quite steep except the first kilometer on gravel. At Bivak Nogara the door glass is shattered so now the pane hangs. Under the bivak a thin stream of water flows. The ferrata is in excellent condition in my opinion. Lots of people at the top despite workday. Down via Slovenian path to the saddle, back to Bivak Nogara and to the valley. Total a bit more than 13km walked, 2000m ascent.
I would never say that the sun rises on this side1
Bivouac Nogara2
View downwards3
Two from Črni vrh are already high up4
In the wall5
Mists6
7
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Flora129. 08. 2012 22:38:00
Bravo, Andrej!
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Tatana10. 09. 2012 09:45:24
Tomorrow I'm heading on this path. If anyone happens to see this question today, I'm wondering if you're clipped in all the time on Via Italiana or are there parts where it's not possible?
Otherwise I'll find out soon nasmeh
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Daaam10. 09. 2012 09:51:55
You can clip in everywhere it's neededjezik good luck
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TanjaM10. 09. 2012 09:52:27
If I remember correctly there's wire most of the time (but not 100% sure), but sometimes you have to stretch a bit to clip over. The path is very well secured though.
Here's another reply right before mine.
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Daaam10. 09. 2012 10:06:00
Just so you don't mix up the Italian path to the top and Via Italiana to the saddlemežikanje .. well-intentioned warning
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Tatana10. 09. 2012 10:23:31
Thanks to both for the replies nasmeh You two are really quick nasmeh
Daaam... I know it's two different things - plan is to the saddle, then down to Bivak Nogara, up Via Italiana and Slovenian to the top, down the Italian nasmeh
That's why I'm asking more, because if not clipped over high drop I start feeling a bit dizzy, if clipped it's ok nasmeh I've seen various pics and videos of Via Italiana and it's quite exposed, so important for me to be able to clip mežikanje
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lynx10. 09. 2012 10:35:20
It's excellently secured. Some short bit in between without, but those are short wide ledges where no need (I remember only one). It'll be over too soon. mežikanje
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katja8710. 09. 2012 21:23:58
On Sunday, 9.9.2012, we went to Mangart. From Mangart saddle we descended to the start of Via Italiana ferrata, climbed it and continued up the Slovenian path, descended on the Italian side.

The ferrata is quite adrenaline-packed and I recommend it only to experienced, as it requires mainly arm strength, and to those not afraid of heights, as the drop is quite big. The path is extremely well protected, wire all the time. Protections in excellent condition.

Pictures from the hike can be seen on the website of Planinsko društvo Matica Murska Sobota: http://www.mojalbum.com/pdmaticams/20120909-mangart-cez-ferato/foto/20041540
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tagec13. 09. 2012 13:28:59
Monday morning in Bovec puts us in good mood right away, only cloudiness over Mangart and possible rain worry us a bit. We drive to the cable car, where we find out again it doesn't run, only weekends, and price 17 euros vs 10 in Sella surprises us. So we drive to M. saddle (originally thought to spice the tour with bike!) descent to Nogara, where we meet 2 Poles, in the wall already 3 Slovenians. We get hot fast when hurrying a bit, protections excellent, exposure quite severe, not for dizzy. One hour passes very fast when fully concentrated on climbing and Nina is a bit disappointed when we exit to saddle, as she enjoys vertical most. On Slovenian we catch up three Slovenians from Belopeških and chat cheerfully on top. They know they have long descent ahead, we can still enjoy the top almost alone, as car is close and room in Bovec..nasmehnasmeh
at Noggari..1
the depth is quite impressive..2
nice traverse3
Happy railings..4
Scaffolding in the background..5
all our highest..6
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LidijaJesih31. 07. 2013 17:50:24
Last year when we were returning from Mangart we watched climbers ascending Via Italiana. They won't see me there already, he said. Well, a year has passed, some experience gathered, a bit of skill acquired, self-belay not only do we have but we also know how to use it. So we went. Not my first time, he devotedly behind me. Nicely secured, airy, not too long, requires concentration and calm spirit of course, pumps a bit of adrenaline, and we were through. You know that smile after? Felt good to me too. Mangart otherwise besieged from saddle via usual paths (less via Slovenian), regardless of ban many sneak to top of saddle. If you behave as needed, it extends the path only by 20 minutes. And you can go to hut for refreshment after, since you pass by. On way back we stopped at Belopeških too, just for fun. Fresh, nice day it was. One of those that connects.
End of the landslide with Mangart in the background and road signage. For some, for others, as if it doesn't exist.1
The path turns at the saddle towards bivouac Nogara, view opens to Belopeška lakes2
After this gully Via Italiana starts gently and right at the start requires going through a window3
Bivouac Nogara, full of lambs and someone playing with them :)4
Through this hole the calf must be pulled5
Exposure is complete in places, that's why there is protection6
There is even a green ledge, below the path leading to Belopeška lakes7
One of the more interesting details.8
The lens doesn't go around the corner...9
How do you call it not quite Slovenian? Luftig?10
When you stand on this peg you squeeze the cable tighter. From the saddle it looks like you're in the air.11
Queues on the normal path.12
Observation post on the saddle :)13
Photo three images back also from the level (mannequin is different).14
You also see a face on the wall where the rockfall was? The way it smiles, there will be more...15
Nature spoils with views and rhododendrons.16
Another glimpse of the Belopeška Lakes, far from city heat.17
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