|
| CarpeDiem24727. 07. 2013 14:52:51 |
Hi!
Perception of the difficulty of individual routes is, as we've established, quite subjective. Since I haven't done Hanzova on Prisank yet, I hope you're not asking about that one, but about Kopiščarjeva (starts from Vršič and goes over the 1st window to the top). To me, the route seems realistically a bit harder than Hanzova on M. Mojstrovka. There are many climbing routes to Triglav, and if you went up via Plemenice, for my feelings this route is somehow equally demanding as the mentioned one on Prisank. 
|
|
|
|
| tinky27. 07. 2013 15:38:39 |
ejas 1234 Hanzova on Mojstrovka or Tominškova on Triglav are, in my opinion, much easier than Kopiščarjeva on Prisank, especially since they are shorter. Kopiščarjeva through the window offers little rest and is also very steep and exposed in some parts, especially at the start.
|
|
|
|
| ejas123427. 07. 2013 20:32:59 |
We went to Triglav from Krederca.
For Prisank, Kopiščarjeva interests me.
If anyone else has an opinion, it would help, since I'm deciding today. Thanks for the answers.
|
|
|
|
| jedriličar27. 07. 2013 21:39:20 |
Kopiščarjeva on Prisank is a 'ferrata' in 3 parts: entry part with one slightly exposed traverse and a bit of vertical climbing, nothing special, then about an hour of walking to the middle ferrata part characterized by one chimney, in the upper part of which you need to crawl through it, then again about half an hour of uphill walking to the scree through the window, which is for me at least the worst part because it is very loose and when there are people ahead you must watch carefully because all sorts of things fly down. The exit from the window is the last ferrata part, steep steps. The ferrata itself is well secured at all necessary places and the little free climbing is no problem, so if you are even a bit experienced as a mountaineer, you shouldn't have problems. Of course, secure yourself at all critical spots. So, a little caution doesn't hurt and watch your step, good luck...
| (+6) |  | |
|
|
|
|
| lynx28. 07. 2013 19:43:16 |
And if anyone's worried about snow: yes, there's a larger patch below the window, but under the path. It looked like there was still snow on the traverse to Hanzovo. The protections are in good condition.
 1
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| nejckov29. 07. 2013 16:18:21 |
So, as I gather from the above comments, I can head out tomorrow up Kopiščarjeva and down the south gully - without winter gear?
|
|
|
|
| lynx29. 07. 2013 16:46:40 |
I don't know about the south (return via ridge), but I don't believe anything would have survived there, since there's no more snow on Kopiščarjeva either. Info from yesterday, same as b.temlin.
|
|
|
|
| Suriljana29. 07. 2013 18:31:32 |
I was today up the ridge and down the southern gully - no more snow. And lots of enjoyment!
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| VanSims30. 07. 2013 19:00:25 |
On Sunday morning I stock up on food and drink at the shop in Kranjska Gora. Instead of two 1.5 L bottles of water, I take three. The heat will be intense. Good thing I did!
Then I drive to Vršič. There's someone standing in the middle of the road in a yellow reflector vest.  I swerve to the opposite lane so I don't run him over, then he jumps to the left side of my car, making me brake.  I barely get past. Well, this one's not smooth, I think.  What if someone came the other way? Where did he escape from? Hope nothing ran him over or worse, that he caused an accident.
I park at the parking lot just before the turnoff to Tičkova hut. Put on my boots, grab gear and off I go. At the viewpoint I head towards Sovna glava, step on it along the way, descend to the scree, cross it, climb a bit more and reach the junction. Head to the ridge path.
The path rises steeply right away, so you have to kick some rocks here and there at the start. Then it levels and soon I'm at the front window where Kopiščarjeva joins. It's already hot by then, I've drunk quite some water. There I head to the ridge. The cables are quite steep. Free climbing with protection is a bit harder, I have to pull the cable twice. Then I reach the ridge where there's first a very exposed cable then two easier ones. Then the ridge continues and you have to climb unprotected several times. One detail, right after the path turns to the right side of the ridge is also a bit scary. Otherwise nothing too crazy hard. So slowly I reach the junction with Jubilee and Slovenian from where it's another 5-10 min to the top.
Shortly after I arrive at the summit two groups of Austrians come, so it was quite lively. I munch, look around a bit. You could see the complete Julijci visible from there of course the dominant Kepa in Karavanke and across the border - yesss again that indispensable prominent Dobrač.  That was more or less all, though Hohalmca appeared for a moment on the way! Too muggy atmosphere. Sun burning like hell. Weather was perfect but if I ordered it I'd order it less muggy and 5-10 degrees cooler.
On descent I head to the southern i.e. Slovenian path and down to the lower two gullies. The passage there downhill is quite awkward. Well, I can confirm too, NO SNOW ON THE SOUTHERN ANYMORE. After a quite arduous descent (still better than from Špik over Kačji graben ) I reach the normal path and past the turnoffs for Jubilee and Razor back to the turnoff for the ridge. There I rest a bit again, munch then to Vršič.
Already on the way from Sovna glava, I notice Ajdova deklica in the wall, at the viewpoint read a bit more about her then to Poštarska hut for beer and jota. Very good, service friendly too. Then to the parking, in Kranjska Gora for ice cream and home.
| (+7) | | |
|
|
|
|
| jetamp31. 07. 2013 14:48:14 |
On Friday I plan to go to Prisank up the Ridge path and back to Vršič via the southern path.
I was on Little Mojstrovka and Triglav without harness kit, but I'm asking if self-belay kit is needed on the Ridge path?
Thanks
|
|
|
|
| Janez Seliškar31. 07. 2013 14:53:53 |
Self-belay kit is recommended both on Hanzova path to Little Mojstrovka, as well as for ascent to Triglav.
Same for Prisank.
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Keko31. 07. 2013 15:57:24 |
You won't be able to use the self-belay kit much on the ridge, because there are very few steel cables, total about 20 meters. Whether you take it or not, you decide yourself.
When I was up there twice already, nobody used it.
|
|
|
|
| Becar31. 07. 2013 16:25:03 |
I used it on this path too, even if only for 20-30 m where exposed, why not. For this path personally I wouldn't buy SVK extra, but since I had it already I took it. Myself I stick to the "official" recommendations here on hribi.net for path descriptions and I'm very satisfied with them. SVK is most useful just above the window where there's a fairly steep passage. And on one slab a bit higher.
Jetamp, since you went Hanzova to Mojstrovka without, I feel I won't convince you to take it for this path either. Good luck
|
|
|
|
| ursula10007531. 07. 2013 18:53:16 |
Does anyone have information on what condition the Hanzova path is in?
|
|
|
|
| Gorska planika1. 08. 2013 10:43:27 |
On Tuesday with my wonderful mountain friend we started in Tamar and headed to Little Mojstrovka (over Grlo, over Sleme and via Hanzova path to the top). Hanzova path is normally passable, no snow patches and super!
From there we descended the southern side to Vršič. We continued the path via Kopiščarjeva to Prisojnik window and descended again to Vršič via Ridge path. From there we went to Jalovec and returned to Tamar valley over Kotovo sedlo. On the way to Jalovec we had a small snow patch which was normally passable.
The day was fantastic and unforgettable!!
|
|
|
|
| alina2. 08. 2013 18:29:04 |
You have primo conditions ZS lp
|
|
|
|
| IgorZlodej3. 08. 2013 17:07:01 |
I set off for Prisank from the 29th bend of the Vršič road, just like several times before. The path to Kranjska planina is really nice, the continuation to Mlinarica was really quiet and relaxed. From Mlinarica I headed towards Zadnje okno and the Jubilee path. Nothing special on it, except that the views and flowers always surprise me again, in a good way of course. People were coming to the summit from all sides, some were already up there. I was surprised that some walk the ridge with poles, and I also saw some on the southern path, of course almost no one had helmets. I didn't stay long up there, I descended along the ridge to the window and then down Kopiščarjeva, because it was at least in the upper part still in the shade. I still had the return along the road to the 29th bend.
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| IgorZlodej3. 08. 2013 19:05:57 |
They even bounce them with poles , but some won't get it even in 100 years that where there are steel cables, poles have no business being there. A helmet is of course welcome even in case of a fall, because the head is the most vulnerable and there are quite a few such injuries. Well, when they have to pay for treatment, which will be pretty soon because everything is going to hell anyway, those will be very relevant.
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.