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Prisank

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janez.novak3. 08. 2013 19:29:47
Three years ago I fell on the southern slope of Prisank, almost on the grassy path. I fell on my head and arm. Since I had a helmet, nothing was wrong with my head, I hurt my arm worse. If I hadn't had a helmet then, it's a big question if I'd still be walking around.
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Zasavčan6. 08. 2013 14:28:36
I'm interested in the conditions on the Jubilee path from the top of Prisojnik along the Prisojnik ledges through the last window and through the notch to Mlinarica, and return to Vršič? cool
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IgorZlodej6. 08. 2013 14:57:20
On Saturday 3.8. the conditions were really goodcool
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_sandra_6. 08. 2013 15:06:02
We too met quite a few people without helmets on Kopiščarjeva on Sunday, then you see some who rest and sit right on the path, you're one or two turns above them and can only hope no stone gets loose and flies down.. I don't understand the carelessness of some..zmeden
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som697. 08. 2013 19:16:29
Prisank is a really nice mountain, but it has one problem: you drive too high up, then folks think about all other stupidities...
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Trobec8. 08. 2013 10:49:09
1.8. was a super day for the mountains, wonderful weather, good visibility... had to start early because it got hot later.

Well, but such weather (since the moon wasn't full) apparently drove various "crazies" to Prisojnik too.

Already in the morning at the junction between ridge and southern we met 2 Russians in sneakers sharing 1 school backpack. The first one was already turning back before the window (on ridge path). When I asked him how it is (until then I held back comments on gear) he said he doesn't even know himself how he got there (to the window, where it's still quite easy). Later I learned from a mountaineer that they drove to Vršič and asked the lady collecting parking fee which is the highest mountain around here.

Well, that wasn't enough for the day. When we were almost back (around 12 at junction between Kopiščarjeva and ridge/southern) two were looking at the map deciding where. Then they headed off on Kopiščarjeva.
Final blow 2min later at Sovja glava. Again a pair (foreigners at first glance, first time in serious mountains) again with school backpacks, helmets swinging half a meter here and there and the first one greets "good morning", then happily head towards Prisojnikzmeden

Otherwise, no snow on ridge and southern (or no crossing), warmly recommend helmet, for via ferrata set anyway. Sure the cables are few, but on some most exposed spots they are there and those extra half kilo to carry won't kill anyone. And if doing a loop, recommend ascent on ridge and descent on southern (didn't mention Kopiščarjeva because I haven't been there yet).

LP
Ajdovska deklica1
Mojstrovka bathes in the morning sun2
3
female ibex with young...how merrily they leaped over the rocks4
view through the window5
junction with Kopiščarjevo6
hobos come begging for food ;) alpine chough - (Pyrrhocorax graculus)7
Jalovec (we were there yesterday ;) and Mangart8
Rokavi, Škrlatica and Dolkova špica9
Razor and Očak10
before descending11
12
judging by the 3rd inscription, it's obvious which hikers are on the rise13
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Ulčnik8. 08. 2013 12:03:08
Hello, would anyone go to Prisojnik via ridge this Sunday with me, I'm from Ljubljana. I'm an average hiker (walk within marked time). mrk pogled
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emma11. 08. 2013 20:05:22
1
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pohodni11. 08. 2013 20:41:09
A nice day also lured me and my son into the mountain world. We climbed to the top of Prisojnik via Kopiščarjeva, returned via Slovenska pot. Quite a few people on the climbing part today, praiseworthy that most were decently equipped for such a path. The climbing section of the path is sufficiently secured, where there are no protections it's nice to grab a solid rock. The scree on the path isn't that annoying, as plenty of solid stones stick out from it that you can step firmly on. The same goes for the descent via Slovenska, although scree-covered, it shouldn't pose problems for an experienced mountaineer. Huge crowds on the summit today, which was confirmed on the return to Vršič, completely jammed with cars. Peak of the season anyway.
Entry into the climbing section.1
in the wall2
escape route, girls behind us3
with a backpack it's tight here4
although nobody waters them they have survived5
this hole isn't that small at all6
the steep exit from the window also marks the end of Kopiščarjeva path7
on the sunny side8
along the ridge to the top9
all the benches are occupied10
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bojči12. 08. 2013 08:09:19
Does anyone have info on what condition Hanzova route on Prisojnik is in. Best regards.
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janezs7312. 08. 2013 09:11:23
hanzova is passable without problems; for the snowfield in devil's gully recommend ice axe or poles, terminal lip was yesterday about 2 m high, but not vertical; passage from ridge notch above devil's pillar to white wall, where there was a small rockfall last year, is clean and easily passable, at the traverse right below summit the pegs are shifted half meter to the left, so the route is safe... lots of enjoyment
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jedriličar19. 08. 2013 10:28:15
Yesterday via Jubilejna. Nice and long path, airy in places. No snowfield on the ledges on north faces of Z. Prisank, so passable without issues, just a small snow patch in the last window that causes no problems. Took about 5 hours for the whole route. Lots of people on Prisank, descent via ridge, met lots of Czechs in sandals and flip-flops ...grim look
A nice day awaits us ... Mojstrovke1
Descent towards Mlinarice ...2
And the sun is rising behind Razor, the path to the notch is quite long and drags on ...3
Path to Razor, but we go left ...4
Up there we go ... Zadnji Prisojnik5
View into Krnica through the window ... at this window the secured path begins ...6
One of the initial details, no problem ...7
One of the initial details, no problem ...8
But there is plenty of walking between the secured sections of the path ...9
Here the most beautiful part of the path begins,,, in the shade in the gap is the last window10
To me the most beautiful detail on the path ... vertical wall, well secured ...11
Then a traverse and we are in the window ...12
in the last window ...13
View of the climbed wall ...14
in the last window ... from above hangs quite some wall that will fall down soon ...15
on the other side of the window, view of the martuljške peaks, from left Špik, M. and V. Ponca, Oltar, Škrlatica, Dolkova Špica ....16
now quite some walking on ledges and traverses awaits us ...17
Then Prisank appears for the first time ...18
A bit up and down the gullies ....19
Look back - one crumbly ledge ...20
View ahead - we go on these ledges ... they are well secured ...21
The path is well secured where it needs to be ...22
We need to descend to that saddle ...23
Short break, behind is Prisojnik24
The traversing is not yet over25
From the saddle upwards ...26
The ledges are not yet over ...27
Secured crumbly ledge...28
Last secured ascent on the path ...29
Still the ascent to the top, in 15 minutes we are up ...30
Final ascent, the summit is already visible ....31
One picture for memory from the top, then down for beer, the ridge awaits us, yippee ...32
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Flora119. 08. 2013 11:28:45
How do you mean you took 5 hours? If you started around 7:00, summit at 12:55? 5 hours one way, to the summit? Asking because I have the route planned. Thanks.
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jedriličar19. 08. 2013 11:33:53
No, we were at summit at 12:20, last pic taken before leaving, started hike at 7, had a half-hour break, short stops etc, so effective hiking about 4:30 hours. Can be faster, but we were 6, details drag a bit ....
As for the route, not technically difficult, has a few airy spots well protected and lots of walking on ledges and traverses. Start early, by 10-11 sun already on the Krnica side, say if start at 6 (hour earlier than us), maybe do the north face in shade ...
If more questions, just ask ...
Best
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Flora119. 08. 2013 11:38:09
If I understand correctly, ca. 5 hours one way, to the summit. Because in first post you write, quote, Took about 5 hours for the whole route. Thanks and all the best.
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jedriličar19. 08. 2013 11:39:43
One more note (see pic): when you reach the notch under Razor, no need to follow Razor path and go left on traverse, as at one boulder a path branches left directly to the notch where climbing route starts (visible track but no markers or signs, misled us), saves surely 15-20 min walking ...mežikanje ... yeah, you're right, my mistake, meant only ascent, of course .... and for descent via ridge you need 2-2.30 hours ...
At the place marked by the arrow, leave the marked path and follow the unmarked path to the left up which leads us directly to the entry notch of the climbing route ...1
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AnzeKozjek19. 08. 2013 13:09:52
Hi!

Interested which would be technically harder route on Prisank. Kopiščarjeva or Hanzova? Would need ice axe on Kopiščarjeva too? Almost mandatory crampons? Planning to go with mates in 3 days, curious about snow conditions....

Thanks for reply, LP!
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lynx19. 08. 2013 13:12:22
Kopiščarjeva is easier and currently completely dry.
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Keko19. 08. 2013 13:17:54
The Jubilee trail through the last window is comparable in length to the path to Škrlatica with slightly less elevation gain. It's a relatively long path.
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jedriličar19. 08. 2013 13:23:27
For Škrlatica you do about 1,700 meters of ascent, and for Jubilee with descent down to Mlinarice no more than 1,200 m ascent, which is a difference of at least 500 meters, which is not little nor insignificant ....mežikanje
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