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Triglav - Slovenian Route

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lepenatka9. 04. 2015 10:25:21
Thanks for the detailed information.
I wish you safe steps on all paths.nasmeh
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jedriličar13. 04. 2015 06:54:01
On Saturday morning Branko and I spent time in the Slovenian Route. Conditions are like this: up to the white slabs it's real mush, white slabs for crawling, above the logbook box in Bučarjeva wall one 10m pitch where it's convenient to belay, then nice and no more problems in Slovenian gully and prevc, pure walking. Traverses, especially that before white slabs, pure psychotherapy, don't remember so exposed but so rotten traverse, if it doesn't freeze tonight that traverse will soon end, because snow melting fast (we started at 4 from gate and it was 1 deg C). All together, nice climbing fun with a bit of psyche training, then went to Kredarica to drink some beers and next morning down via Cmir (descent also just postholing to balls ...) ... and some pics upload, as always ...mežikanje
Towards the entrance to the Slovenian ...1
Larches, so prominent that you can't miss ...2
Already the first traverse under the larches hinted that the traverses would be nasty ...3
Further towards the larch ...4
You have to go up there ....5
At the larches the climbing begins .... luckily in the gullies it was firmer ...6
Above the larches, Branko in a small jump ...7
Exit from that little gully to the ridge ,,,,8
Now from here onwards, a bit of scrambling, then that rotten traverse towards the white slabs ....9
That rotten traverse, part one ...10
That rotten traverse, part two ....11
And that last part, here we had to downclimb about ten meters, but all rotten ....12
Here actually the enjoyment begins, the notch below the white slabs ...13
On the white slabs we had to scramble a bit ...14
View back, you can see that last part of the psycho traverse ...15
A bit of scrambling on the White Slabs ...16
And onwards ...17
View back above the White Slabs ... you'd think it's flooded to the balls, but it's not ...18
Traverse to Bučarjeva stena, the chimney is flooded to the balls and it's just a walk, unlike the summer variant ...19
Gully in Bučarjeva stena ..20
The jump step in Bučarjeva stena ... most went across without protection ...21
The jump up close ...22
I like myself too much, so you carry all that gear with you, so why not use it?23
Branko in the last detail of the jump ...24
And across ... that jump took us one hour ...25
The jump from above .... and another rope team behind us was belaying ...26
Next is that traverse to the Slovenska grapa .... and onwards it's just walking ...27
Slovenska grapa .... right at the top of the gully there is a window where the summer variant goes, and above it Frelihova prečka ....28
Close-up of Okno and Frelihova ...29
View down from Slovenska grapa ... the ledge is clearly visible ...30
At this point you need to turn left into Prevčev izstop ...31
In Prevčev izstop ..... 32
And its end cannot be seen ...33
Frelihova and Slovenski turnc ...34
Already high up in Prevcu ...35
And it still has no end ... meanwhile these two youngsters overtook us like a fast train ...36
Another fifty meters and we're out ...37
And out we are ... not bad, first in the wall, last out ,,,, I don't know why everyone in the wall lingers somewhere ???38
Another nice view of Triglav, Milerjev kamin, we little ones planned next morning through it, but we turned directly down to the gate ...39
For all who weren't there but were invited, mi2 enjoyed it (Branko and Marijan)40
(+29)like
JusAvgustin13. 04. 2015 07:50:02
You guys were late, huh?jezik
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jedriličar13. 04. 2015 07:55:28
No, Juš, we just had no hurry because we were going to sleep at Kredarica anyway, drink some beers and chat a bit ... enjoyed the route leisurely ... as befits my years ...velik nasmehvelik nasmehvelik nasmeh can't make 200 photos and be fast ...
(+11)like
dprapr13. 04. 2015 08:01:00
Marijan, I just heard this week stricter speed checks in Europe, so you did right... and enjoyed.
Regards
(+11)like
jedriličar13. 04. 2015 18:55:54
Drago, we accepted award for slowest team in wall ... 4 beers at Kredarica ... velik nasmeh
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JusAvgustin13. 04. 2015 19:27:38
As far as I was told start should be at 4am from the car. Under the route in max 1.5 hours. At the exit they were at 12pm. Do the math. Was the start delayed or did they really take so many photos. When we go together again I'll prepare for bivouac...jezik
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jedriličar13. 04. 2015 19:34:07
That's it, started at 4 as I wrote, 8 hours to exit and another 2 to Kredarica ... made some 150 photos, had a great time, easy, no rush ... last ones overtook us 100 meters below exit .... velik nasmeh ... I always carry bivouac sack with me.. mežikanje
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Dr.ejči13. 04. 2015 20:33:39
Hope you drank "my" beer too?? mežikanje
(+2)like
redbull13. 04. 2015 20:35:29
congrats and of course great photos
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Maemi13. 04. 2015 21:19:09
Seen on Kredarica around 2pm while hanging wet clothes mežikanje The news that the Slovenian Route had been climbed spread quickly around.
Beers undoubtedly deserved, bravo! cool
Apparently one team at the larches turned back to Vrata....
(+5)like
lijaneja13. 04. 2015 21:27:26
Bravo Marijan. By description and photos it appeals to me. I'd probably feel a bit cold in betweenvelik nasmeh.
If I get it right: with more snow and lower temps it would be pure poetry.
(+1)like
dolenjka&primorc13. 04. 2015 21:27:46
We really had fun and enjoyed to the full mežikanje ..easy going, sporty velik nasmeh ..
Marijan..two were still behind us velik nasmeh
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Wine13. 04. 2015 22:15:41
Congrats istrijan nasmeh
who cares if it was 3, 4 or 10 hours, the main thing is that it got climbed cool
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mukica14. 04. 2015 08:20:36
Wowww, congratsnasmehnasmehnasmehnasmehNice demanding tour and lots of funnasmeh
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JusAvgustin26. 06. 2015 20:20:58
Today in great company via Stena. Due to lots of snow in Slovenian gully I decided and took them via Ustoličenje. Great alternative. At boulder all legendary names. Extremely rarely climbed exit. I'll come back here. No pics.
(+4)like
Dr.ejči26. 06. 2015 21:47:17
Not quite, but approximately like that, yeah...zavijanje z očmi

I'll attach some myself...mežikanje
Ustoličenje from afar...1
...and from close up...2
...ambience below it...3
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Iuvi27. 06. 2015 07:07:57
That's how it is with the snow in the gully.
1
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JusAvgustin5. 07. 2015 08:23:52
He said: "take me to Triglav..." So we went. We entered the Slovenian at 6 a.m. Reached the summit at 10:30 via Prevčev exit, then over Kugy ledge and notch to the top.
Apart from snow in Slo gully no specialties, and even there we didn't need winter gear. But there's still a lot of snow in the gully...
Upper Štuk1
2
the snow won't be gone so soon3
Prevčev exit4
Variant for the diligent5
The wall6
Clearly visible Prevčev exit and variants in it7
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jedriličar13. 07. 2015 13:25:15
As Juš wrote a few days ago, there's already a lot of snow in the Slovenian gully, and it doesn't melt quickly. And it's hard, no self-forming steps ... ice axe mandatory, and if used to walking such snow, doable without crampons. Rest without specialties, chimney under window bit wet and slippery, window crumbly. And careful into Slovenian ... mežikanje
Slovenkska gully still nicely snow-covered, so no problem to climb the boulder ...1
Ice axe is mandatory ... crampons recommended for the inexperienced ....2
At some places the snowfield can be bypassed, but it's faster up the snowfield ...3
Enthronement ...4
Andrej explains how to get there ....5
In the German [route] we counted about 8-9 pitches ...6
And Tone on the Slovenian tower ... I'm very glad he put him on the list too ...7
We ended the tour with a feast at Stanič's .... Tone, who no longer likes feasts, had to take his wife to the sea the next day, so he went to the valley ....8
(+12)like
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