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Triglav - Slovenian Route

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Dr.ejči14. 07. 2015 07:20:18
We had a great time and it went well... really nice classic!... it only took us a bit more time at the detail by the "freezer", when we counted an abnormal number of rope teams coming from "Short"... some more of my view.
...jump over the summit logbook under Bučarjeva stena...1
...walk along Zlatorogova polica...2
...view towards Ustoličenje...3
...chaos in Nemška...4
...wet gully under the window...5
...loose rock in the window....belay recommended...6
...towards Frelihova...7
...view from Frelihova into Slovenska grapa...8
...Prevč...9
...in the traverse...10
...view...11
...detail...12
(+12)like
dolenjka&primorc14. 07. 2015 22:21:06
Yes, we had fun and while Marijan and Andrej dealt with the detail at "freezer", we two with Tone extended the tour along Kugy ledge and over Bovška notch to the top nasmeh
At the top circus zmeden
(+2)like
redbull15. 07. 2015 14:48:57
nice, congrats, didn't know Mercator is under Triglavnasmeh), cheers


good luck
like
lijaneja21. 07. 2015 20:24:32
A bit late, my short comment on the done tour. Thanks to Marijan for leading, I notice he feels completely at home in our mountains and is a good connoisseur of them. Burdened with 60m rope, handicapped from the start, but with each height meter I enjoyed more the natural passages opening to us. My mistake was descent via Prag in hellish afternoon heat.
Start towards the larches on the left.1
High, high...2
Andrej, Branko and Marijan3
Rocks towering into the sky.4
Stenar in an uncharacteristic green color.5
Familiar panorama.6
The three musketeers.7
White walls.8
Nice climb to the right of them.9
View into Vrata.10
Last snow before the exit.11
Still without a cloud.12
Window.13
A look back.14
We're out. Glava 2426.15
Begunjski vrh.16
Bovški Gamsovec, Razor, Kriški rob and Šplevta (Indian).17
Škrlatica.18
On Slovenski turnec.19
Bustling at the summit.20
(+10)like
aleksandra3. 08. 2015 18:49:55
With excellent leading ascent via Slovenian, descent via Prag.velik nasmehnasmehvelik nasmehnasmeh
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(+10)like
JusAvgustin6. 08. 2015 16:13:44
Yesterday again up the route. This time chance to fulfill birthday wish. Celebrant enthusiastic, nor was it bad for me. Route completely dry. We exited via Frelih ledge. Very nice morning further brightened by Jedriličar, who also fulfilled wish and climbed Long German with two friends. Also met at Slovenian exit another forum member, whose name remains secret for personal reasons. Great day ended in Radovljica with discovering monument to my grandfather, who started introducing me to mountains and alpine environment in early youth.
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(+9)like
jedriličar18. 04. 2016 08:38:28
Yesterday I basically described the conditions, today I'll just put some pics up ... just so there's no 'misleading' ...
View of the route from the winter room ...1
Entry into the route then gully towards the larches ...2
Entrance slab ....3
Under the larches a bit of snow, a bit of rock ...4
Above the larches bare chimneys ....5
Bare rungs ... but rotten ....6
Quite rotten descending ladder into the notch ...7
Towards Beli plati ... pure rock ....8
View back from the top of Beli plati ... pure rock ...9
Towards Bučarjeva stena ... it can be bypassed along the gully on the right side ...10
Close-up ... at the exit from Bučarjeva there is one rock jump ... in a few days it will be pure rock ...11
Rock jump close-up ... now it's about 3-4 meters ...12
And that's it, here the difficulties end ... the Slovenian gully is nicely filled and we've stamped it too ...13
Prevc is also nicely soaked and of course, the highway is made ...14
Exit from Prevc ... and that's it ...15
Towards Kredarica ....16
Pir in view ... 17
(+15)like
lijaneja18. 04. 2016 10:55:16
Right, Marijan! You're becoming more and more of an extremist.
(+1)like
jedriličar18. 04. 2016 11:09:11
Yeah, don't know what was extreme here, except extremely rotten ... eek
(+5)like
mailman18. 04. 2016 11:52:59
But without beer it doesn't go, eh?jezik
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grega_z_brega18. 04. 2016 12:57:05
beer is for replenishing lost electrolytes jezik
(+4)like
JusAvgustin18. 04. 2016 13:15:10
yeah sure, 4 hours in the Wall and 9-12 hours in the tavern...mežikanje Why would it be different for others?!velik nasmeh
(+7)like
lucalevi24. 06. 2016 14:11:35
Yesterday 23-06-2016, Slovenian Route.

Almost good conditions, crampons and ice axe very useful!
7-8 hours from/to Aljažev Dom (without Triglav's summit, Slovenian only)


Pictures

Luca Iacolettig

P.S.: when we began slovenska grapa, several big rocks fell from the top of grapa inside it. Is this due to melting ice or Zlatorog? mežikanje WATCH OUT!!!
Start1
On the wall2
3
Slovenska grapa4
Prevčev exit5
Triglav6
(+6)like
ŠpRo2914. 07. 2016 11:47:40
On Tuesday via Slovenian. Still some snow to cross, otherwise excellent experience and above all unforgettable memory. Exited via Frelih ledge, descended via Prag.
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(+7)like
JTrogar10. 08. 2016 16:37:11
With Milan and Andrej we climbed Triglav last week via Slovenian Route. All three were first time and we really enjoyed the great atmosphere of Triglav north face. No major issues in the route, except here and there finding the right continuation. From Slovenian pillar we continued to Kugy ledge, as we planned to summit via north ridge. Due to fog hiding the summit, we rather climbed to summit via Škrbina, as we didn't know that route either. On summit congratulations and quite familiar company from home area. Descended past Kredarica via Tominsko.
Best regards and safe steps to all from under the beautiful Golts, Janez












Snapshot in Slovenski pod Macesni1
Snapshot in Slovenski pod Macesni2
Snapshot in Slovenski pod Macesni3
Peek towards Luknja4
At Macesni5
Peek towards Stenar6
Bele plati7
Below Bučerjeva stena8
Bučerjev kamin9
View10
In Bučerjev kamin11
In Bučerjev kamin12
Snapshot on the path13
Peek at Slovensko grapo, above the goal Slovenski turnc14
Snapshot below Slovensko grapo15
Ustoličenje16
The sun slowly catches up with us17
Zlatorogove police18
Entrance from Slovenska grapa to Frelihova polica19
Snapshot on Frelihova polica20
Snapshot on Frelihova polica21
Snapshot on Frelihova polica22
Snapshot on Frelihova polica23
Peek towards Glava24
Snapshot on Frelihova polica25
Snapshot on Frelihova polica26
Frelihova polica27
Someone is following us28
Peek towards Begunjski vrh29
Snapshot30
Snapshot below Slovenski turnc31
Snapshot below Slovenski turnc32
Triglavska north face33
Prevčev izstop, Begunjski vrh34
pokuk towards Očak35
Ants on MT36
Snapshot on Slovenski turnec37
Green snow38
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Hut at Kredarica40
Towards Kugyjeva polica41
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Glacier43
Snapshot on Kugyjeva polica44
Snapshot on Kugyjeva polica45
Snapshot on Kugyjeva polica46
Towards Zaplanja47
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Joyful meeting at the summit50
Srečo, nice to have met51
Playful chamois at Kredarica52
We had a good time53
Until next time54
(+10)like
mukica19. 07. 2017 08:00:35
Yesterday with a friend I was in the Wall via Slovenian Route. We exited via Frelih and continued on our own towards Triglav summit, where we joined the secured path about 15 min before. We crossed some snowfields, snow was soft and it was a real pleasure scrambling and walking towards the goal. For me so far the most interesting and most demanding ascent to Triglavnasmeh
Morning in Vrata and shining goal1
At Macesni2
Mighty wall3
Carefully and prudently4
Belay required5
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On the ledge7
Then the decision: we two go a bit our own way8
View towards Kredarica9
Traversing softened snowfields10
And fully scree-eroded ledges11
Check every hold, many things remain in the hand12
The world stands very vertically13
View along the traversed path from the ledge in Stena14
Here we join the secured path15
Thrilling at the top16
Moment on descent to Kredarica17
Return via Tominšek Path to Vrata18
Tominškova pot19
One more view of the Wall....20
(+2)like
miri19. 07. 2017 08:25:55
Brave.Congratulations.What was going through your head on sl.6?nasmeh
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lepenatka19. 07. 2017 08:38:40
Congratulations nasmehnasmeh. That's an achievement.
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anitagoitan19. 07. 2017 10:13:45
Mukica sincere congratulations, nice and solitary approach to Očak in these days!
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mukica19. 07. 2017 12:04:37
Miri...what do I know...probably thought if there'll be something narrower and craziermežikanje
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