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| don kihott30. 06. 2019 11:15:05 |
Looks good...The wall itself offers friction climbing and seems slightly overhanging in places...The ferrata could be without pegs to get max. difficulty...Parallel, an easier variant with pegs...
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| suzyf30. 06. 2019 11:28:39 |
What is the difficulty compared to Otmarjeva pot in Vipava?
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| Bojan_A30. 06. 2019 12:07:20 |
If there were no pegs, it would be almost entirely E difficulty. Maybe they'll add some more pegs and it will be easier upon opening.
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| don kihott30. 06. 2019 13:52:55 |
Bojan A... They could also make something more concrete and longer than Sp.plota (right branch) and Gonžarce in Slovenia, there are definitely plenty of walls where they wouldn't destroy climbing routes... Anything happening in this direction is super, but only ferratas and ZZP (example-Otmarjeva pot) are being made, which almost everyone crawls on...
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| don kihott30. 06. 2019 17:46:05 |
I agree, they definitely have great conditions for something like that
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| peterr1. 07. 2019 00:24:48 |
Just for info, yesterday 30.6. I wanted to check out this new addition but the builders apparently (maybe not all finished or something) removed the access from the road entrance and the bridge to the wall at the waterfall so it's not passable. Maybe the cause is (premature) posts in media (FB,Youtube) which no one debunked. Since I wasn't the only one who ''stayed at the door'' some ''official'' info from the builders would be welcome.
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| hike&fly17. 07. 2019 22:27:34 |
Saturday 13.7 - the “unnamed” ferrata still not open.
Unfortunately we tested it the hard way. After ascent on ferrata Hvadnik, on descent to valley a cable appears. We followed it. But at the end surprise, as we hit the unfinished end of the ferrata, which in last 10m prevents safe descent. Had to return back along the ferrata to the start.
The ferrata makers could equip both ends with warning signs about unfinished project.
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| janezs7331. 07. 2019 19:55:11 |
ferata Jermn finally open, unfortunately again with too many pegs 
yesterday with 2 colleagues we climbed it 2x: first time using all pegs as intended, and both little bridges too, second time almost completely without pegs - except one spot where you can't avoid stepping on a peg; ratings below for both variants...
Start from road (not from path descending from ferrata Hvadnik) right before the stream, a bit further from sign at junction where path from Hvadnik reaches road.. "ferata Jermn" sign directs further along road (no sign)... before stream don't miss cables up right... after 10m ground first slab starts, clearly pegs... rating (with pegs) C/D (without D/E)... until you reach traverse from path descending from Hvadnik... along this path left to pipe from intake under waterfall, where double-rope bridge clearly directs to slab on other side of water - first 3m D (maybe D/E) - only spot without pegs, then C to overhanging slab - this is definitely hardest spot if not using pegs - height ca 5m, with pegs just D, without pure E (maybe even E/F, but due to overhanging smooth slab and bridging in overhang, second rating assuming no stepping on peg anywhere).. slab crumbles a bit under shoe, so slightly harder than otherwise or compared to "right" Zelenica.. above slab traverse right - first C maybe B/C (really have to try not to step on pegs.. in this case C/D).. middle part to second double bridge B... above bridge nice, partly slightly overhanging crack, pronounced features allow stepping different places... some pegs but not annoying - pass right around them... rating C/D, without pegs D (maybe detail D/E)...
total climbing height a bit less than 100m
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| don kihott1. 08. 2019 12:47:18 |
I already lost interest in going there at all, but with your detailed description you gave me a bit of hope that without pegs I'll at least feel my arms a little and maybe find that (E/F) passage myself
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| ms_primoz1. 08. 2019 13:33:59 |
A really detailed description by Janez, with which he gave hope to don kihott. I browse various professional literature, documentation, books on achievements, but I remained disappointed. I can't find you anywhere. Really not. If you are somewhere, please tell me so that you give me hope for further.
Here one brags in front of a crowd of people who go to the mountains and do ferratas for personal reasons. And not to show who has the longer one.
Slovenia is full of such experts in all fields.
p.s. I suggest you go up a third time with an angle grinder and saw off everything on the side, except that peg, since even you (Janez) can't avoid stepping on it.
When you go up for the 6th time, saw off the side of the cable too... fu**, who needs it anyway
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| don kihott1. 08. 2019 13:53:58 |
ms primoz....don't get upset...Janezs73 really described the matter thoroughly and in detail for those who in via ferrata sense want more than grade E, ms primoz you can skip our comments (so you won't be needlessly grumpy all day) I myself go to the mountains or via ferrata for the soul and to step out at least for a moment from the crazy life rhythm dictated by daily obligations and recharge my batteries...It's not about any ku.č...e as you say in the previous paragraph....Safe step or grip
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| Mtb471. 08. 2019 14:02:34 |
You go up the cables and pegs and that's it. If you want a bit more action and pressure though, ask someone to take you climbing to the crag.
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| dprapr1. 08. 2019 14:45:10 |
Why to the crag, there are plenty of walls on the other side of the valley that are more than E.
Saw one a while ago who went Za Aku with SVK. Probably got lost in the rating.
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| don kihott5. 08. 2019 17:15:50 |
Janezs73, even on that 5m high overhanging slab section it went without pegs (a normal E would say there's no such demanding E section on the slab) and the slab is pretty muddy due to the dirt that individuals shoveled onto the wall with picks... Max rating of the ferrata with pegs is C/D, maybe somewhere a (D?) where there's a bit more spacing between pegs, that's mainly in the entry wall where you gotta walk a good meter on rock, and that's all...
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| janezs737. 08. 2019 09:34:08 |
don kihott: this year you're in such good form that everything seems easier to you  .. despite everything I'd say D grade is spot on
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| Todi16. 08. 2019 06:16:28 |
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| miri16. 08. 2019 07:22:59 |
Dunno if this pretending (16th and 18th pic.) belongs here.
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