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| janezs7317. 06. 2018 17:10:38 |
@bperc & @primoza: after reading your report on the via ferrata above Griffen yesterday, I tested it today right away.
Primož, you won't regret trying it too... the ladders are really twisted and many inclined quite up or down, in overhangs or right above them or larger undercuts... altogether in this via ferrata about 200 m of E sections and about 200 C/D (or better D) sections...
I agree with what's said, that this is the hardest in Austrian Carinthia, and probably beyond... the length of E parts is really exceptional and that's where the biggest challenge shows, don't go here without slings if you can't hang on your arms for 1h without them giving out... I can't, so I rested on slings on numerous pitons.
In short, hard!
But already in this good month since the via ferrata opened, quite a few Slovenes have signed in the logbook. Bravo!
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| don kihott17. 06. 2018 18:01:21 |
I think it's one of the harder ones in the whole of Austria... Actually I climbed it without using brackets, only cable and friction, I clipped the sling only for filming harder sections and photos... In the via ferrata there have already been about 5 or 6 rescues of exhausted climbers/ferratists, that's why two weeks ago they drilled 30 additional larger brackets into the wall... Most people anyway keep hanging on the sling all the time or drag themselves from anchor to anchor on the cable, hands getting stuck behind the cable...etc...etc... The thing is long and constantly pumped, chance for rest only before the via ferrata turns from the right ladder to the left, there are some really B/C spots... The rock is really crumbly and sharp!!!
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| MatejaP9. 07. 2018 09:05:53 |
The via ferrata was on my wishlist since last year and on Saturday it was its turn
Among you there are many experts on similar routes, I've maybe just sniffed E, because natural routes with cable just for aid are closer to me, which doesn't apply to the mentioned via ferrata.
Already at the start, when I looked well at the sign, the climbing time of 45 minutes bothered me and I didn't know what to think, it seemed too much for such a short route, a bit of fear of course doesn't hurt
For me personally the middle chimney was a bit harder, maybe hands were already a bit tired, because I awkwardly clipped at "Štef's piton" and had to lower a bit to go on. The exit is also well spiced, but you know it's almost over and it pulls you up
The via ferrata pumps adrenaline through your blood and is worth all respect, arms take the main load, some legs, and in the head everything must be properly arranged
I climbed in climbing shoes with all necessary gear, also sling to rest and yes I stood on pitons as seen in Primož's photos, because simply no other way, maybe I lack experience, probably never have enough to fix that
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| lino16. 06. 2019 10:33:46 |
Primož, as always wonderful photos from the via ferrata. But the math doesn't add up for me. Žan, Ajda, your better half and your littleness. By my logic that's 4/4, but on this via ferrata then 1/2 or 2/4 family setup. Enjoy further!
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| redbull16. 06. 2019 12:03:13 |
Lino, why do you start farting around? Let them have what they have, even though it mentions a lot about family, there are good mountain data and great photos. If you're on the forum for the informativeness of them, then skip who all was there.
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| lino5. 07. 2019 19:28:18 |
Primož, I'll quietly praise it, so Redbull won't pop again...... Because of that pop..... I am in a state of obsessive-compulsive phobia. Best!
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| parenzo2. 03. 2020 14:58:42 |
I'm wondering if there's any thinking about a longer via ferrata in this area? Say in the wall near Vrtača hut. Say: starting at the lowest point of the wall, it would zigzag right with exit at Šentanc and difficulty (constant) D.
I think such a via ferrata would be very, very welcome. Since the wall is in shade, it would be the only one far around where you could climb in it even at high summer temperatures.
As such, it would be closest to Lj, Kr..etc. Other pluses: arranged parking, proximity of access, proximity of two huts, proximity of border...etc.
The quality of the rock and possibilities of equipping, local alpinists would know best.
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| don kihott26. 09. 2023 20:48:31 |
Gailer Hengst is really a top via ferrata Masterpiece...Definitely, at least in my opinion more demanding than Griffen!!...
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| balon29. 09. 2023 17:14:31 |
Hello, I need info if the path from the top of the via ferrata towards the house is marked also from bottom up? We're going to climb Triej, two would go around to the top, that's why I'm asking.
Thanks for the answer,
Alen
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| JORDAN29. 09. 2023 18:16:54 |
The path from bottom up is not marked, but well trodden. If you don't see the path yourselves, ask at the hut.
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| balon29. 09. 2023 19:20:54 |
Jordan, thanks for the answer.
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| balon29. 09. 2023 19:20:58 |
Jordan, thanks for the answer.
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