| janezs7327. 09. 2015 19:10:36 |
Curiosity wouldn't let me rest and I went to test this outdoor fitness. I'm dedicating the following info to those who love such sports via ferratas or want to try them, as well as to those who hike the hills on so-called protected paths.
In my opinion, the main issue is that these are completely different "sports", even though both include the term "protected path" in the name. This one at Zelenica stands out completely from the SLO selection of protected paths and via ferratas (however many there are).
First, climbing shoes (!) are necessary for this via ferrata. Note this especially if you're used to walking our classic protected paths. Even with climbing shoes, which make some passages much easier, they still won't pull you up at the hardest spots, where most of the weight in via ferratas is on the arms. Interestingly, the moves are also different from sport climbing. At times, it felt like I had similar sensations (in my arms) when climbing sport routes graded between 5b and 6a (though of course the technique can't be compared, no mistake). Unfortunately, experience from via ferratas doesn't help much on protected paths. There it's mainly about footwork feel, balance transfer, endurance, checking crumbly/broken footholds and handholds, etc.
For those not used to via ferratas, some tips. Might help someone. Of course, not trying to be smart  just well-meaning:
Before vertical sections, use a lanyard or any rigid short tether with cable, rest on it and think about where to step and especially (!), how to clip at the first next bolt above the hard part. If the hard part is vertically upward, release the lanyard and clip it above the next bolt before unclipping from the safety cable. If the hard part is diagonal (e.g. on the last belly or at traverses in the middle section) and you're running out of arm strength, climb it by pushing off perpendicularly sideways from the cable with your feet - this will tension the lanyard and free your hands after each move. During such moves, push the lanyard up with the lower hand, move the foot, turn body toward the cable and push off, tensioning the lanyard and holding it at the next point. If it's a horizontal traverse, hang on the lanyard and cross (meanwhile moving the lanyard forward with the rear hand). As I said, such via ferratas are like fitness, technique is needed.. no need to do everything "by force"
Otherwise, the via ferrata is really well made. Grades are quite realistic. I have just one concern: the starting part (D grade) is easier than it looks, maybe not selective enough!
For me personally, the middle belly above the traverse was the most mentally draining.. I don't even know why - maybe because I rested in the niche on the right and lost the hanging feel - that belly is really exposed... I'll check next time what's the issue
right after the initial E in the right variant, one of my safety leashes got stuck under the nut (because I moved too fast), which I barely fixed - that always drains a lot of energy... so it's worth thinking well how to clip
if you're not skilled, don't go there without extra protection.. anchors are prepared everywhere so people can climb as safely as possible!
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