Visoka Ponca - Strug - Vevnica
|
| redbull21. 07. 2018 19:50:09 |
But anyway over Kotova Sp. it's almost obligatory to have a rope, on the previously drawn one you can manage without too
|
|
|
|
| Dr.ejči21. 07. 2018 21:58:56 |
I'm wondering, Dejan, if you've actually gone on any of these variants?... or just giving general tips?... my opinion is this... up the ledge is, to me of course, much easier than down... also tracking passages from meadows is easier... essential part we don't mention is from ledge to meadows over extremely steep grassy folds and gullies... there the exposure is really big, no protection... along the ledge there are pegs but "for the fast ones" it doesn't help because according to "pikpok"'s photos no one touches rope and other "alpine ballast"... no hard feelings, I'm not the best, just a scree guy who always carries necessary gear... better one more piton, sling, carabiner than NOTHING!... descent from saddle... far from where Dejan drew... normal tracker takes you too far right to VKŠ wall into ledge system ending with step needing rope rappel... belay is made... easier further left down gully (at gully top probably still belay with red prusik we made with Juš in snowy descent)... lower no issues until crossing right (per Mihelič should seek choked gully which is actually ledge)... ledge at narrowest (ca 40 cm) really "psychs you out" left dizzying depth... for info all "newbies" on big boulder near bivouac on Kotovo sedlo memorial plaque A. Čopkova young climber who fell from that ledge autumn 2016... my opinion don't always rely just on difficulty grade... no hard feelings.
| (+19) |  | |
|
|
|
|
| Janez Seliškar21. 07. 2018 22:26:52 |
Scree guys have a bit more gear on this tour than runners.
| (+8) | | |
|
|
|
|
| bbugari122. 07. 2018 10:53:08 |
If I understood correctly, for the traverse Ponca - Strug - Vevnica no winter gear and no SVK (due to loose cables) is needed, and the path now follows well due to new Italian markings?
I'm also interested: is it difficult to find the path from Tarvisio bivouac to Kotovo sedlo, or from bivouac to the Koritnica - Mangrt path? Any advice?
What are the time intervals?
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| coffee22. 07. 2018 11:14:14 |
I think cable looseness doesn't determine SVK use, only if they are torn.
| (+4) | | |
|
|
|
|
| redbull22. 07. 2018 13:02:43 |
The path is traceable - red spots downhill from bivouac, on debris you're on marked path.
|
|
|
|
| pikpok22. 07. 2018 14:07:18 |
Some use rope also for crossing where cables are unsure (pic from net and friend's pic from Thursday tour). Let each judge for themselves the difficulty and safety gear use. I know that if I end up on too tight part I can always turn and abandon the tour end. Otherwise a slip can happen anywhere.
 1 2
| (+3) | | |
|
|
|
|
| bbugari122. 07. 2018 16:21:42 |
alessio, what are you waiting for??? 
pikpok: is the path now well traceable from Ponca to Vevnica?
|
|
|
|
| pikpok22. 07. 2018 16:26:10 |
The trail is well traceable but there are neither Italian nor Slovenian markings. They made "red dots and lines"... "paws" as Dejan wrote.
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| redbull22. 07. 2018 19:10:59 |
More than enough not to miss it, more or less the ridge. Don't go there in fog though
|
|
|
|
| VanSims22. 07. 2018 20:24:12 |
@bbugari: From Bivouac Busettini (new name) towards Koritnica or Kotovo sedlo the path, as @redbull said, is marked but only formally as markings in the first part are so faded they're barely traceable. Path goes first a bit down and left then descends in switchbacks to scree, somewhere there junction to Mangrt, at least faintly written on rock, but where exactly I wasn't clear...
A bit further another unmarked junction, probably to Koritnica. To lowest point where path starts rising there's still a rope and another lower variant where only anchors left from ropes (path probably rerouted higher for easier crossing of annoying scree). Once across scree, normal path to Kotovo sedlo decently marked and, ignoring some torn ropes (no issue for someone from della Vite or ridge), well secured.
|
|
|
|
| 2061alessio25. 07. 2018 23:46:30 |
x bbugari1 and others: this is not a hiking marked path white-red with number, this is an alpinistic path because we don't maintain it and by law in Italy only some Mountain guides or special companies can do it of course if there is money therefore, money from FJK region is first for "vie ferrate" and hiking paths so unfortunately this path will stay as it is for many years, years ago Mountain Guides renovated one part from Vevnica towards Strug as long as there was money and then unfortunately end.
| (+11) | | |
|
|
|
|
| janezs7317. 08. 2018 15:02:29 |
Yesterday was the day for this magnificent ridge Vevnica-Strug-Ponca.
Started from Planica and breakfasted below Kotovo sedlo, then traversed the slope of Koto peak via ledge/gully and grassy ledges, much written about, directly to Vevnica. No morning magic on Jalovec this time, but mists around peaks equally enchanting. Gully technically no problem, grassy ledges exposed in places - wire helps. Bolts drilled every 5-10m. After jammed ledge right then to Vevnica summit straight up the ridge, carefully as most rocks waiting to fly to valley.
Descent from Vevnica to notch towards Strug pure scree, of wires only half usable, mainly vertical ones still serve, but soon unusable.
On ridge to Strug and further to Poncas of course forget using rusted and randomly hanging old wires. No need anyway. Always enough passages with good holds around.
These sacred places in my understanding of mountains not for records. Every hour given to spend there too short. So often sit and just stare.
From middle Ponca descend marked path to Tamar. Clear few people use it, numerous variants trodden mainly by animals.
| (+8) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Franc6018. 08. 2018 08:41:45 |
How small the world is for Hribi.net.
Janezs.73 photographed us (I escaped him) at V end of spica. We came up normal from Kotova spica. Returned via traverse below Kotova spica, so we missed by about an hour.
Here's this link, more descriptions can't hurt.
http://www.zupnija-dovje.si/images/prenosi/stezice/stezice1.htm
Open: Planica - PL7 Vevnica below Kotovo sedlo.
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| janezs7318. 08. 2018 12:35:17 |
Dejan, thanks. It was fantastic. Take care!
Franc, nice to see you both. Feeling of sharing this beautiful wilderness early with another living (thinking) being is wonderful.
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| AI18. 08. 2019 18:16:28 |
Conditions on the traverse are good (4.8.2019). Snow doesn't interfere anywhere.
I would warn about the increasingly poor protections on the path from the notch below Strug to Vevnica.
At one spot the situation is quite dangerous. After the initial section with two parallel wires, the path goes right around the exposed "nose". From the ascent direction you can't see around the nose and when you pull the wire, you shockedly notice that the wire behind it is torn right after the exit from the bolt. In the bolt it is held only by the clamp friction. I advise great caution and as little pulling on the wire as possible. It is also good to have a solid "grip" in the left hand.
Similarly, above the first part of the path above the notch, quite a few loose rocks are "hanging", waiting for the right moment.
Descent on the "Path of Life" is fine. In the upper part in the vertical section one step is pulled out; since it is clipped to the wire, it hasn't fallen out yet, but it is not suitable for loading. The lower part (from the gully down) is excellently renovated. The path is currently officially closed as a "via ferrata", but only as a climbing route. As Alessio noted, the reason is preparation for the renovation of the upper part too.
| (+8) | | |
|
|
|
|
| mdenac4. 07. 2022 22:58:51 |
Nice greetings to all! Has anyone crossed this ridge this year and could have some info on the condition of fixed protections from the saddle between Strug and Vevnica to Vevnica? Is it still doable there (within the usual difficulty of this ridge)?
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| 2061alessio5. 07. 2022 17:17:18 |
Unfortunately everything in the old state
| (+6) | | |
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.