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This weekend I decided on a trip to rarely visited but very interesting areas. The highest peak of the Caserine-Cornaget-Resettum chain in the Carnic Prealps is an interesting objective, the solitude on the path you can almost cut with a knife, and access to the summit is relatively easy.
The normal route to it starts in the Val Settimana valley about a kilometer before the Pussa hut (to there from Claut on a pretty bad road). To the Anita Goitan bivouac I was already well warmed up on the steep marked path, from there onwards you have to search a bit for the passage. The description from vienormali.it directed me straight up the ridge behind the bivouac, but the terrain there wasn't too appealing, so I chose another option - I followed the abandoned marked path towards the Meda notch to the cirque below it. There I found a passage to the right into the Ciadin de la meda cirque. There's even a modest little path across, later cairns started appearing. I followed this path all the way to the small ridge under the Torre della meda tower, from there I descended to the bottom of the cirque (later I realized that was far from the most pleasant passage into it, but never mind). Ciadin de la meda is a magical place where you just can't believe how far away it is from everything, yet access here is really so easy. Of course it was the ideal spot for a break and snack before the final ascent to Cornaget. This part is naturally more demanding, but the technical difficulties are very moderate and I can recommend it to anyone drawn to such wild places who can manage a step on slightly more delicate terrain. No more orientation issues from here, it's solidly cairned, plenty of cairns. First you have to climb to the Savalon notch, which is probably the hardest part of the tour. The final part of the ascent goes over steep compacted scree terrain where you can never be completely sure of your step, and a slip could be quite problematic. Extreme caution is really needed here, especially on descent. On the notch I find myself facing some kind of inclined slabby wall reaching towards the mountain's summit. I can't believe the access goes over it, but actually it's fairly easy - there are a couple of climbing spots at the start (probably all within grade I, no issues on descent), most of the path is on ledges and well cairned. And so finally I end up on the ridge (exposed), which after a few meters brings me to the top. And I'm on the highest summit of this mountain group! Though the weather wasn't quite clear, the views met expectations, from nearby Caserine and Dosaipa to Duranna, Cima dei Preti, and even farther "real" Dolomites. I descended the same route, with lots of caution especially below the notch, and from the cirque I managed to find a direct passage that led me to the marks just below the bivouac.
All in all, I can say it's a great tour that I recommend to all who aren't too scared of unmarked terrain (I was too, but it somehow worked out ) and like tours where you're very unlikely to meet anyone. By the way, the first entries in the summit register date back to 1993 ...

So, this season it was somehow fitting to wrap up with an ascent of a slightly higher mountain. So on Sunday and Monday, two Slovenian mountaineers tackled Catinaccio d'Antermoia, a 3004-meter peak in the Dolomites above Val di Fassa. Although we don't have much experience with foreign mountains yet, the choice turned out perfectly.
Anyway, here's how it went: tour start in Val di Fassa at Pera di Fassa settlement, Rualp hamlet, around 1350 meters. We parked here around 2:30 pm on Sunday and started the ascent to the Gardeccia hut. This is perhaps the least pleasant part of the tour. It begins on a fairly steep trail straight from the village, but after less than half an hour of hiking, it joins the asphalted (but closed) road to the hut. Further on, the path follows this road for a while, and signs direct to a parallel gravel path at times. After a bit more than an hour (if memory serves) of walking, we finally reached the plateau at around 1950 meters, where the Gardeccia and Stella Alpina huts stand (and a third, Catinaccio, which is closed). You can get here by bus from the valley, and chairlifts can shorten the way, of course for a fee. Anyway, we were finally in the high mountains, the scenery got nicer and progress more enjoyable. Another 45 minutes of hiking led us to two more huts, Vajolet and Preuss, below the walls of Catinaccio, Vajolet Towers, and also - already - our target Catinaccio d'Antermoia. The first day still had an hour of walking from these two huts up the valley to the Principe saddle between Catinaccio d'Antermoia and Valbona peaks (at 2600 meters), where the Rifugio Passo Principe hut lies, where we stayed overnight. It's a very small hut, almost built into the wall on a ledge. Otherwise very nicely equipped, staff very friendly, we enjoyed a tasty and plentiful dinner and some German beer. Not cheap, but expected. After dinner, hung out a bit in the dining room with other guests, at 10 pm night silence starts (not quite like on Kredarica...).
Next day, after breakfast and decent coffee, we went for the summit of Catinaccio d'Antermoia. We ascended via the west via ferrata and reached it in 55 minutes. The route is nothing special, about the level of the Slovenian one on Mangart, maybe a slightly harder spot, but really nothing to fear. Protection status ok, a couple pegs pulled out, but none in critical spots. Summit has extensive views, air wasn't clear enough for Ortler, but visible to Marmolada. And to the other side to the cirque and Antermoia lake, where we descended. This descent - via the east via ferrata - is a bit trickier, as the terrain is quite rubble-filled and loaded in many places, but doable (and us Slovenians are all used to that...). Path otherwise well protected, cables a bit looser (Italian style) than on the west via ferrata, but once I got used to it, I even liked it. Trickiest is the lower part, mostly steep scree, protected sporadically, but requires ultra caution. Finally reached the screes of Antermoia cirque. From there straight to its flat bottom, then to the nice little lake. Hut nearby too (yeah, they abound), stopped for snack and a few pics, then quickly (ca. 2 hours) descended the remaining 1300 vertical meters through marmot kingdom, then nice Val de Udai valley all the way to Pera. Returned there just after 2 pm. Tours and mountain joys now over, just nice 250 km (about 3.5 hours) to Nova Gorica await, companion another two hours to the Styrian end...
The tour is very nice and recommended, nice loop through mountains we rarely visit. Paths good and always well marked, upper part well protected and not too hard. Plenty of huts too (though location-wise the highest - Passo Principe - is perhaps best). Mountains gorgeous, walls vertical, environment super tidy. And of course - conquer a three-thousander in great position with fine views and get lots of ideas for more tours. Especially, descending from San Pellegrino pass on return, sight of Civetta made it clear we gotta go there ASAP. Not this year probably, but it'll come.

Ugly mountain. I definitely want to go higher somewhere, but not drawn there.

Wow, hats off. Those two paths (651 and 655) were a big mystery to me and what little I heard was more in the style of "it's impossible at all". Now finally a report from someone who dared to go and check. Definitely useful info on conditions. Thanks.

And anyway, the claim that in Austria "in the immediate vicinity across the border" there is no toll-free pass is a bit strange. We can stay with those in the closest proximity - Korensko sedlo, Ljubelj, Jezersko, Pavlič. All free.

If in Austria there are parking lots at moderate prices, toll is paid on every pass. In the immediate vicinity across the border I don't remember any pass that is not paid.

Wait wait wait wait. All passes where roads with transit meaning lead are free. Paid are tourist roads.
In the Dolomites it's like that. Parking at the passes themselves is often paid, but you can legally park a bit lower. Space is limited of course. And the parking price on paid lots doesn't reach the robbery amount from Vrata by any chance.

If in Austria there are parking lots at moderate prices, toll is paid on every pass. In the immediate vicinity across the border I don't remember any pass that is not paid.

Wait wait wait wait. All passes where roads with transit meaning lead are free. Paid are tourist roads.
In the Dolomites it's like that. Parking at the passes themselves is often paid, but you can legally park a bit lower. Space is limited of course. And the parking price on paid lots doesn't reach the robbery amount from Vrata by any chance.

Brana from Kamniško (if no snow). Mangart via Italian.

If I may give you a recommendation, I think it is somewhat better to do the tour in the opposite direction. The climb from Špička to Škrbina za gradom is not something that one wishes to do and the descent that follows requires a lot of attention almost until the end.

To start with, I think it would be legally very controversial if it applied only to Slovenians, not to EU citizens. If we go to the whole EU, then it concerns only a small share of visitors and such a measure probably wouldn't have much effect.

The sign is not in Bistrica but at the last bend on Jermanca. In other words, parking is only possible on the clearing and a bit further, not on the flat behind the last left bend. That's, yes, really just 5 minutes more. But there are also quite a few fewer parking spots, which can complicate the situation a bit on the busiest days.

It definitely looks quite suspicious. Although it's true that they also offer cash on delivery among payment methods.

A bunch of delicate unsecured traverses over steep grass. I won't scare you, but that's how it is.
It is true that from the junction upwards it's actually better. The most delicate parts are below. And I absolutely advise against the "normal" exit which avoids Koren's path to the right. That's really psychotic.

@turbo
To be honest, what is - except for reservations - so different in today's huts? OK, some have arranged rooms, but to me it seems that the main offer of mountain huts (especially the "real" ones, i.e. high alpine with at least a few hours access from the highest road) regarding accommodation are still common dorms. Although both exist. Regarding food I don't even remember them offering much more than what you listed, maybe some dessert, but no special choices. Which is right.
Regarding the reservation system I absolutely agree. Recently in the Weekly several keepers clearly said that the thing is too rigid and they coped better with the previous system. This system benefits only PZS and foreign tourist agencies, not the employed and hut visitors.
Oh, and by the way, one more thing - this year for the first time in my life I reserved accommodation in a hut in the Swiss Alps. They didn't require any prepayment by any chance. Just by the way.

And this expert can't help but say this:

I agree that for visiting Triglav we would need certain restrictions, which is already well solved on Tre Cime, Mont Blanc and Matterhorn, where visit is necessary with a mountain guide.

Of course this is not true at all.

Slovenians are really "some asses", what all they have come up with to "rip us off"; ... I also resent the alpine association, because in such cases - when prices are too high, it doesn't care for its members and does nothing for them,

I fully agree with this. I happen to know that this year a petition to the PZS leadership was addressed by almost all leaders of Slovenian alpine sections. In which some almost absurd but nevertheless true claims were highlighted. For example this, that PZS card holders are entitled to a discount for parking in Paklenica, in Vrata they get only the middle finger. But PZS is rather silent about it and pushes some "public transport to mountains" campaigns, within which it fraternizes with crowned robbers from Bohinj Tourism.

By the way; yesterday I chatted with a couple, locals, at Terzi Piccoli; with the best will they couldn't remember at which mountain trailhead in Friuli one would need to pay parking.

Zajzera, now also Beli potok. They are in the minority and cheaper (as I already wrote, I parked much cheaper in one Swiss alpine valley than for the same duration in Vrata), but they can be found.