vrh123 - Recent messages

Hello,

I'm interested in which crags you think are the most pleasant.

Criteria:

1) Flat terrain, enough space for belaying and all gear.

2) Relatively easy access and (un)overgrown terrain.

3) Enough routes from 4a to 6a, emphasis on 5s, to get a good climb session.


I'm not as demanding as it might seem from the post. Of course not all criteria need to be met. Generally, I'm interested in crags comparable to Preddvor, as for all mentioned things it's currently optimal for me.

So far I've been to Turnec, Preddvor and Vipava.

Additional question: anyone know the status of Kamnitnik near Škofja Loka? Google says it's closed, but nowhere else can I find info confirming or denying it.


Thanks in advance and best regards.

Hello,

today my dad and I climbed at Turnc. Even with the sport climbing guide I couldn't orient myself on which sector we were actually climbing. I think it's not necessary to add that we're newbies.

Can someone tell me what the sector with the bench is called, the one closest to the parking (well, it's not really a parking lot, but you probably know what I mean), from which you go to Grmada via Pogačnikova path? So from the parking we go towards Pogačnikova, then turn right on the wide path and walk to the bench on our left.

We climbed there and one rock (sector?) to the left, so on the outer side of the rock, where inside there are the stairs (Pogačnikova).

Thanks in advance for all the help.

Does anyone know what the condition is on the path Ravne - Dovška rožca? Asking because of storms and such. Are parking and path in normal condition?

Thanks.

Is the scree on picture 9 the same as this? Are things better today? How would you rate the path past the hunting hut in terms of exposure? I'm not vertiginous, have some via ferratas behind me, but things like this scree are more annoying to me. No cable, right?

I'm thinking where to go on nicer weather these days for a relatively short (~2/3-hour) trip. I have practically no winter experience, so I'd go somewhere where the path is well trodden and no avalanche danger. Avalanche bulletin says danger above 1500m is 3rd degree now, but don't know how it relates to individual mountains. Is there avalanche danger anywhere on the path from Petrov's Hill to Porezen or is the winter path suitable for a beginner? How do Porezen, Ratitovec and Blegoš compare in winter (mainly avalanches)? Is any path completely safe? Thanks in advance.

At the top without sheep poop - super.

One question: How does the Čez Psico path compare to the Skozi Žrelo path? I know Psica is less secured and thus probably more demanding. Just rough comparison please.

I have only a few secured paths behind me: both Gradiški, Triglav from Kredarica and Mala Mojstrovka. How does Psica compare to those? Would you recommend it to a relative beginner of very demanding paths?

Thanks in advance and best regards.

Another question about the well-known situation at the summit. Last month it was still desperate. Literally, you can't find even a little space without (fresh) sheep shit. It's really not pleasant.

I have a friend who says he was at the summit on October 12 a few years ago and the summit was clean. Does that still hold true?

Does anyone have insider information on when they no longer release sheep up there?

What's the condition of the trail through Žrelo and through Škarjev rob? Wire ropes, pegs ok?

On Monday I'm thinking about a hike to Kosmati vrh. What's the snow situation and is there any path safer than others due to avalanches? I'm inexperienced in winter, so I'm inquiring.

@Climber91 - I know where the boulder is. So I go around it on the right and continue towards the forest.

@Macesna - Do you remember anything, was that path somewhat safe? Hiking isn't foreign to me at all, but I have no alpine skills to set up protection on steeper parts myself. Anyway: yes, I followed that path, but it got narrower, overgrown, and on the left sheer drop, so I turned back. I think a slip there would end badly. In your memory, is the path to sectors B and C like that?

And to all: which sectors at Turnc would you mark as the friendliest? I mean mainly somewhat normal approach and a comfy belay spot. For example, I don't plan to climb on the inner side of Mali turnec, because belaying on those stairs is uncomfortable and it's all dark and a bit claustrophobic.

In short, which sectors are least like the mentioned inner side of Mali Turnca and most like Garderoba?

And yes, Turnc seems quite neglected, and that's why I like it. Because no arranged parking and it's unclear, there are no people.

But need to be careful. Even in Garderoba, the far left short route (Silvotova, 4b, 8m) has no decent anchor. It's a thin rope tied around a tree and some rotten rope holding it all. I didn't trust it with my weight, so I clipped in, then still downclimbed.

Many thanks again, you're very kind, info is very useful at this point.

Excellent, thanks for all the help.

By the look of the rock it seemed to me like Garderoba, but I wasn't sure because I thought the whole crag doesn't extend that far to the left, but that it starts there at Pogačnikova with sector A.

In the sport climbing guide sectors A (Pod Westrovo potjo), B (Kovačev turnc) and C (Ačkov turnc) are together, then there's quite a gap between C and D, E, F and G (which are close again).

Can someone tell how to get to sectors A, B and C? At the place where you would enter Pogačnikova via stairs, turn left (there was some path, but overgrown) or do you have to go along the asphalt road to Kovač inn or start of Westrova and then somewhere right or something like that?

And one last question, since I can't quite imagine how far the whole crag extends: how far is J (Beli raz), the last sector on the far right?

If you continue straight on the wide path that leads to Garderoba on the left, you come to some hut or rental space (next to volleyball net, if I'm not mistaken). If the hut is on the right, on the left, if memory serves, there's a clearing or rocks again. Is Beli raz already somewhere there or do you have to go further? I can't imagine based on the sketch in the sport climbing guide.

Thanks for such quick and good response.

Best regards