JusAvgustin - Recent messages

Exclusive ridge that I couldn't rate until today. All Prle's attachments and warning exclamation marks didn't prevent Andrej and me from crossing this special one among ridges today on the last day before the rains. Why special you'll ask. Most likely climbed even less than Z ridge of Mala Martuljška Ponca... Reasons probably several: ridge nowhere described in detail, difficulty such that it'll deter many and ridge actually almost terra incognita. Probably stays that way. I'll describe course and difficulty very sparingly, maybe some resent me but that's me. Great alpinist of classical era said "Lo devi provare".
Ridge that doesn't leave even a hardcore ridger indifferent, ridge that ranks in my personal top 3 traversed so far. Overhanging, bushy, steep, crumbly, insanely exposed, hard, above all complete absence of human traces.
Sparse description: From Požgana Mlinarica to Zadnja, then ridge to first tower (IV.), then along ledge to col and second tower (II-III.) Follows deepest col of ridge, up to third tower (very close to V.) Then ridge over pinnacles and towers to 4th tower (II-III) extremely exposed. Continuation no longer very hard, except one detail on penultimate tower which is III-IV). Ridge ends at junction of V ridge SVŠ. Traverse over very steep grass to secured alpine path. In no case down the scree. Approx climbing time 6 hrs. Difficulty high.
Enjoyed by Andrej and Juš

Big thanks to Maret who spurred me to climb the ridge, and sincere congrats to Andrej for all tricky pitches led, as leader in the team.

In a few words among my top 5 ridges. From Vratica to VRP via S ridge is one of the things I'll always remember with pleasure. Total blast on the ridge. Even more crazy company. Beautiful rock and insane exposure.

Yesterday in Prontarska Route. The entry is interesting, a bit of scratching needed, the continuation iced over, so you can get through the jumps without scratching. It continues under the boulder and to the upper snowfield before the gully, which is very nicely climbable. Then a short gully and you're out of the route. We descended to Kofce and from there to the transport waiting for us at the big parking lot. Big thanks that we didn't have to walk back to the starting point.

On Sunday with the youngsters in the Slovenian route. The route is still beautiful and attractive. The Slovenian gully is completely dry. We exited via Frelih's traverse.
The kids enjoyed it to the max, only the descent dragged a bit for them.
Definitely a trip I'll remember in the best possible way.

Yesterday on Široka peč with Gozd Martuljek. From top we traversed also to Dovški križ and via express descent to Vrata.
No peculiarities on approach and ridge. Beautifully spent day in Martuljek.

Vodeb describes it so richly...

Promet.si
Complete closure until 15.3.

Right after border post sharply left towards Pamž farm. Before farm at right bend to right through the forest road to fork at ditch. Then on track to entry.
This with GPS tracks went totally over all limits...

"Where could be dangerous would be really ridiculous to do profile." That's joke, right? Dejan do you realize what you're writing?

https://youtu.be/ibsxwLIR4Fo

Support your local GRS societies.

"in the direction of the prominent tower Turnec..."

Crazy, what are you climbing...

Oh...

Bučerjeva wall...

Well if one of the few who soloed Čop tells you that, I think the matter is clear...

Tough and demanding. Good luck.

5 lines above it's all explained. And look at the pictures and you'll see the conditions above Vršič...