JusAvgustin - Recent messages

Exclusive ridge that I couldn't rate until today. All Prle's attachments and warning exclamation marks didn't prevent Andrej and me from crossing this special one among ridges today on the last day before the rains. Why special you'll ask. Most likely climbed even less than Z ridge of Mala Martuljška Ponca... Reasons probably several: ridge nowhere described in detail, difficulty such that it'll deter many and ridge actually almost terra incognita. Probably stays that way. I'll describe course and difficulty very sparingly, maybe some resent me but that's me. Great alpinist of classical era said "Lo devi provare".
Ridge that doesn't leave even a hardcore ridger indifferent, ridge that ranks in my personal top 3 traversed so far. Overhanging, bushy, steep, crumbly, insanely exposed, hard, above all complete absence of human traces.
Sparse description: From Požgana Mlinarica to Zadnja, then ridge to first tower (IV.), then along ledge to col and second tower (II-III.) Follows deepest col of ridge, up to third tower (very close to V.) Then ridge over pinnacles and towers to 4th tower (II-III) extremely exposed. Continuation no longer very hard, except one detail on penultimate tower which is III-IV). Ridge ends at junction of V ridge SVŠ. Traverse over very steep grass to secured alpine path. In no case down the scree. Approx climbing time 6 hrs. Difficulty high.
Enjoyed by Andrej and Juš

Big thanks to Maret who spurred me to climb the ridge, and sincere congrats to Andrej for all tricky pitches led, as leader in the team.

In a few words among my top 5 ridges. From Vratica to VRP via S ridge is one of the things I'll always remember with pleasure. Total blast on the ridge. Even more crazy company. Beautiful rock and insane exposure.

Haha, turbo legend.

Part of the PP. Terrain like in Kravja dolina.

Lp

Just now we are on Velika Goličica.
I don't know the reason why I delayed so long ...
Views that have no equal.

A few hours later ... I have always been looking towards the Goličicas and today finally also on the initiative of conquering 2k it came to turn.
Ascent via the approach gully along the extreme right edge under the wall (steep part).
Above from the saddle then via logical passages (actually there is a path and a couple of cairns at key points) to the top of MG and from there via a cairned path to VG.
The plan was to look at the continuations to Mali Prisank via both Goličicas.
A beautiful day in beautiful company, even though we got washed from the top of MG to the lower third of the gully ...

No, at Erjavčeva hut. Parking for the whole day costs 18 euros ...

Before the bridge at Erika, in the parking lot under the 3rd hairpin, at Erjavčeva hut ...

Yesterday, 31.7. we climbed Stenar from Sovatna with intermediate stops on all Stenar's sub-peaks or "natural additions" ...
We started at an altitude of 1800 m, where we climbed to Stenar's plain via a saddle, which actually allows the easiest approach to the grassy plains under Stenar. From Stenar's plain we first climbed to the peak above us on the left side, when we realized that it is not Turn pod Stenarjem at all.
From the peak we traverse across the slope (easily passable, but exposed) to the notch in the SE ridge of Stenar from where we descend along the ridge to the real Turn pod Stenarjem 2177 m.
From Turn, of which there are two but the lower one is marked, we continue along the ridge cut to the top of Spodnji Stenar 2381 m from there along a super cut to the junction with the summit structure of Stenar. At that time we did not approach the top of Stenar, as we descended through quite severe rubble to a suitable knob for descent by rope into Stenar's notch, into the totally ruined world of Macesenec 2472 m. From the top of Macesenec we descended back to the notch and climbed to Stenar as well, thus completing a super tour.
On the tour we encountered climbing of the lower III. grade, the world is serious, broken, chaotic and completely wild. One of the aesthetically more beautiful ridges of Stenar.
I recommend the use of rope and all other technical equipment.
Thanks to M&M for the description of the approach to Macesenci.
An extraordinary tour in Stenar.

Today with my dearest we ascended Kopiščar's route, traversed to Hanz's, ascended it to the summit structure of Hanz's tower, and also approached the tower. Technical difficulties do not exceed grade I. Again a beautiful tour in the wild walls of Prisank.

Yesterday 22.7.2026 in the afternoon we climbed over Zagon to Kožne, from there to the summit of Celovška špica and continued across the ridge towards Stol. The ridge is still a unique experience, slalom between rock blocks, which you just admire from afar and as if the Almighty had thrown them onto this pile of stone called Orlice.
A super afternoon, in beautiful company.

To Turn there is a beaten path.

Yesterday morning we started from Vršič, approached via the Slovenian route to Turn, climbed Turn, continued on the path to the jubilee, climbed to the top of Zadnji Prisank, descended back to the path, and continued towards V Zvonik. We climbed Zvonik directly from the cairn via the only chimney-gully-feature in the wall. On the way back I replaced the auxiliary cords on the anchors for descent.

That would have been the post if the weather had cooperated.

Already towards Sovna glava the first drops fell; we turned back and waited it out in the old cannon bunker. At 10am it was clear that the atmosphere would stabilize and we would be able to complete the tour.
We did it as well, but with a three-hour delay.
The difficulties we encountered did not exceed grade II.
The wild walls of Prisank impressed us. We'll be back here ...

The ridge gets more fucked up with every visit ... You die laughing, but is that really so. The sharp-edged dynamics of Paradajz didn't appeal to you/you two?

On Friday we climbed Veliki Oltar via the NW ridge. For me the most beautiful possible approach to VO. In detail there is still my piton that I hammered there during my first ascent from Velika Dnina. Above it an anchor has been made for descent on rope. In the anchor one strand is attached which serves as a rope on which we descend back to Dnina. The rope is cut at one end so it's probably still there.
Anchors from there on some are safe, some are not. Each anchor needs to be checked before loading it. As Bojan wrote, to the saddle of Podrtija there is nothing like it; from there on beautiful rock to the summit barrier. Over the summit barrier/ledge it can be done direct. Bypass on the left on what remains of the chimney (II) is not necessary.
It was a beautiful day in even more beautiful company.

Congratulations.

Tone, this time it's not me ...
Good luck.

Tone, but this one for me.
https://www.hribi.net/izlet/ruski_kriz_veliki_oltar_po_sz_grebenu/1/7/4631
The Oltar certainly shouldn't be taken lightly. Access from all sides is demanding.