skrajnik - Recent messages

Can anyone give me some smart advice on buying (twin) rope?
Brand, good protection, affordable, where ....

Looking at mammut PHOENIX DRY 8mm 60m but the price is pretty high

Thanks!

I'm interested in a list of EQUIPPED multi-pitch routes..?

or a guidebook in digital form?

We know they are lying.
They know they are lying.
They know we know they are lying.
We know they know we know they are lying.

And they still lie.

ALEKSANDER SOLZHENITSYN

If you believe in Santa Claus ...

I agree with the above post - a real little catastrophe in decisions and execution!

Anyone have info on conditions over ferrata to Great Baba?
Snow?
Thanks!

Has anyone tracked down this film somewhere?
Cerro Torre: A Snowball's Chance in Hell
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALi267BsNqo


I haven't found it

No, they haven't yet, several hills have already burned, yesterday saw it live from Montaža...
They said it's burning for 26 days already!

Any info on terminal sérac and crampons for this year?
Or just ice axes?

thanks!

Ahhh, how I can hardly wait....

aha, thanks, maybe just still - hoarfrost? how does it look?

Has anyone been hiking or skiing around "za akom"? bivak, 3 larches, southern gully, little Ponca?

Has anyone skied around Jalovec recently? Conditions?

For myself I've realized this populism of hiking, pathless routes, alpinism doesn't appeal. Because the only important thing at the end is the wilderness experience, adventure, peace, solitude...

And too many descriptions, invitations, talking around esp. on the internet, all that slowly fogs a bit...

Therefore I don't publish details anymore, maybe if important just a word on conditions...

Who REALLY wants can find all tours, pathless routes, routes in selected literature which is plenty..

No hard feelings, just my personal observation...

nice tour, for the soul, solo, bravo!

The day before yesterday and yesterday wandering around the B2 area at Jezerih.
Goal of day 1 - Visoki Rokav. At the bivouac we lighten our packs and climb to
the big scree slope and across it to the entrance of the Rokav glacier. There rocks already whizz past us, but
you have to be prepared for that, especially in summer when there is no more snow. As soon as possible to shelter under the boulder, where
one by one we scramble over it and along the wall slowly towards the notch. Here and there a rock flies by, but
we're somehow on the "safe" line and soon spot the beautiful cirque "V kotlu". We enjoy moments of this wild view
and slowly prepare for 2 pitches. Below the entrance we find old poles, which gives us a hint that we're not alone.

We start with nice climbing towards the top, in really incredible surroundings, but at the 2nd belay I hear rumbling above and rockfall coming
towards me. I dodge a bit, but later better hide under the rock. I spot the party above me and after a couple of rock
falls we agree they wait a bit. Everything is quite loose and unstable and you trigger something right away. This will be an interesting
descent, I think. We continue to the top, at the top joy; but soon silence from all beauties and wildly beautiful surroundings. A couple
chats about future wishes, photos and time passed, the party ahead should have descended from the glacier by now.

We slowly descend, together with rockfalls, when at the 2nd belay we hear shouts about rocks. They're not out yet!
They say they need another 5 min, as they're at the end. Of course we wait, aware of the glacier's seriousness. When 10-15 minutes pass,
we yell a couple of times where they are and no answer - we go! Slowly to the route entrance and down the glacier. At the penultimate stance
a helicopter flies below the glacier and rises over the Rokavs, then descends again. We slowly realize something is wrong
and stop. The heli rises and descends a couple more times. I go to the middle of the glacier and see they're lifting someone. Crisis - accident!

When all ends we finally hear from the other that it was an accident - rock to the head. We descend to the end, pick up
poles and glasses and to the bivouac. There we learn the whole story, which somehow bitters the entire experience. Accident - and after the exit
from the glacier, 30m from all difficulties! After the talk and best wishes we part and in a couple of hours head to sleep in the B2 shelter.
Day 2 return via Škranatarica to the valley.

Wild adventure in inspiring places!
To the injured gentleman we wish the quickest recovery!
(could easily be any of us :| ...)

PS: Rokav glacier in summer objectively + relatively dangerous, if anyone ahead turn back... I will.