Matterhorn / Monte Cervino
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| julika27. 03. 2016 11:23:17 |
strelec1954, the date of each post is under the user name on the left side... so jan71's pics aren't last year's 
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| UROS118. 06. 2016 19:36:03 |
Anyone going to MATTERHORN this year?
Can I join? 12 years ago at 21 I summited once. Really want to repeat it, no partner.
Please if anyone goes. If you take me I'll cover all transport and parking costs!!! Thinking solo but safer roped up.
Uroš
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| garmont19. 06. 2016 15:35:15 |
Uroš, decide whether you need a driver or a guide?!  Or both...
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| UROS119. 06. 2016 15:50:15 |
Need a good mountaineer who can belay - for descent. That's it. Even at 21 first time no issues on ascent. Let alone now after years, 3000ers, ferratas. Sure no problem.
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| UROS119. 06. 2016 15:51:55 |
If someone goes with someone to Matterhorn and takes me too - I'll cover full transport and parking costs for those two!!
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| JusAvgustin19. 06. 2016 16:48:33 |
Matej and I have been trying to tackle this Monte Cervino for ages...
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| UROS119. 06. 2016 16:54:24 |
That means from the Italian side. That's not the same - for me. For me only this Hornli ridge from the Swiss side counts. The whole way while climbing this ridge you can observe the north face and alpinists in it. From this Swiss side it's really a true magnet! True though, the Italian side is much much cheaper!
Sleeping at the new Hörnlihütte costs 150chf or cca 170e per night, per person, in a room with shared bunks. And the gondola to Schwarzsee - return ticket 50chf per person.
THAT MEANS 400e COSTS PER PERSON JUST FOR DOUBLE NIGHT AND RETURN GONDOLA TICKET!
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| UROS119. 06. 2016 16:55:13 |
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| dprapr19. 06. 2016 17:06:34 |
Uroš, why does that crowd pull you so much if you've already been up there? You'll just expose yourself once more.
And no chance I'd pay that much for a night. Last time I slept on some grass cca 1 hour below the hut to the left.
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| lino19. 06. 2016 17:44:20 |
Dprapr, you think rationally - Uroš1 thinks as the heart dictates.
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| viharnik19. 06. 2016 17:57:40 |
You gotta prepare a good five hundred for such a trip, similar for French Savoie, of course without huts or even hotels, more like grass camping home-style
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| UROS119. 06. 2016 18:42:43 |
Drapr, because the mountain simply calls me for a long time. This Matterhorn gives me special power.... Back then 12 years ago when I wasn't so experienced I had one problem on descent, simply didn't know how to tackle that pillar under the shoulder. Then the guides belayed me and lowered me with rope technique to a safe spot below the pillar. From there down it went without problems.
But back then I hadn't climbed any major 3000er, nor any via ferrata, no wild paths in walls of our Alps, last year before last also German route in Triglav north face...
Now I believe it'll go much better for sure, but until you're there on site nothing is certain.
As I read on the hut's website Hörnlihütte, I also sent the link, it says no sleeping outside allowed and it's punishable if caught. It's literally pure business and only business. But what can I do, if I want to go up this king of mountains again I'll have to pay.
Lino, you're right - the mountain calls me, and I'm training all the time just for it!
Please if anyone goes let me know. I think it's fair and that one will also benefit if I cover all transport and parking costs.
I HAVE VACATION FROM SATURDAY 27.08.16 TO SUNDAY 11.09.16.
PLEASE IF SOMEONE IS SO GOOD AND TAKES ME ALONG! Of course we can go earlier on a get-to-know, test hike of your choice.
PLEASE! I'm crazy enough to go up free solo and know I'd succeed up, but down I'm not most convinced.....
PLEASE, I'll be very very grateful.
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| palček plezalček19. 06. 2016 18:50:12 |
Uroš, I really hope someone interested in this ascent offers you company without you paying all transport costs, since whoever plans to go will have to drive anyway. We're not such exploiters to go with someone only if they pay
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| dprapr19. 06. 2016 19:01:53 |
Hope your ascent comes true if you want it so much.
But don't tackle it alone by any means if you don't master rope descent. In any case better two, if nothing else for carrying gear and possible belaying.
And count on the day being quite short in your mentioned time, and the ridge maybe newly snowed several times.
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| viharnik19. 06. 2016 19:10:33 |
For the ascent to Matterhorn you need to know the frequency of rope teams on the ridge, weather must be stable, because apparently you have nowhere to retreat to safety. Where there are heartfelt wishes, there is also the right path and energy, so calmly realize the goal.
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| UROS119. 06. 2016 19:25:59 |
Viharnik - you're right, exactly like that! Weather must be stable, but that's no problem for me, whenever I go on some important long tour I check the weather on multiple portals and so far everything has matched with the weather. It's true that you have nowhere to retreat on this mountain and ridge. Under the so-called shoulder, under the head of Matterhorn there's one bivouac and that's it. This last weekend of August and first weekend of September would still be possible in my opinion, if only the weather. As we can see, summer keeps delaying every year and then lasts longer. For ex. last year in November on Austrian Petzeck and last December in short sleeves on Triglav..... Thanks a lot little climber for the nice wishes, thanks. But as I say, I realize how someone feels who takes you on such an important and demanding mountain, even though they test you on some tour before. And if he's willing to belay me on the descent I'll really cover the transport and parking from the heart, so he also gets some reward for the effort and good will!
Because as I say I really really want to repeat it and if I was terminally ill, knowing I have only one month left for ex. and was in this form as now, I'd tackle it alone, up I know it'll go, for sure! But I don't know about down and that part there that pillar +, which looks like a shoulder under the king's head.
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| viharnik19. 06. 2016 19:34:17 |
Take an experienced alpinist with you on such a tour who will know how to act if something goes wrong (weather change, ice, snow, fog, slip with injury, time pressure, sudden altitude sickness).
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| palček plezalček19. 06. 2016 19:40:59 |
Uroš, don't break it. If you want to go up Hornli at any cost, pay a guide who by profession shouldn't expose you to dangers. If for ex. the ridge interested me, I'd be more interested than you paying my way or us doing a warm-up tour in whether you know how to rappel on rope, know knots, know how to handle accessory ropes and gear. If not, I wouldn't take you, certainly not just because you'd pay my transport. And honestly... you can't really trust someone who'd take you for that. In a rope team it's not essential that someone lowers you for ex. one pitch. That's the least important and easiest on the whole tour you have planned. Think what if something else goes wrong on ascent or descent... and you never know what. And what if you had to help your partner? You can't rely on helicopter. Get basic skills, otherwise take a guide; it's much safer.
Btw. If you need someone for one descent, you actually don't need him. You need a partner for the whole tour
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| viharnik19. 06. 2016 20:50:51 |
Just about this I once talked with Boro from K2 shop. It can happen in the wall that the tough experienced alpinist who knows everything and leads the ascent gets injured. In that case all further decisions and ingenuity fall on the weak link, including rescuing the alpinist partner. That's why he advised me not to tackle such feats in walls at all. So in a rope team there are always two experienced and matched climbers.
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