Mala Mojstrovka - Hanz Path
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| Janez Seliškar18. 10. 2013 07:28:47 |
Conditions on the Hanz path are wintry.
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| oybl15. 06. 2014 17:42:05 |
Today I was on Little Mojstrovka via Hanz path. At the entry there is huge loose scree and an overhanging snow wall completely blocking access. I bypassed to the left, but you need to free climb about 10m (III). Later no problems on the path, snow only up top before the last pitch to the summit.
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| neyo27. 06. 2014 19:20:49 |
Tomorrow my wife and I plan [to take] Hanz path to Little Mojstrovka. Wondering if there is still snow somewhere. Generally, how is the path now? If anyone went last week, please write. Thanks.
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| traceour28. 06. 2014 06:38:33 |
Apparently problem at start because scree under Mojstrovka totally flooded, wasn't there but saw pics from Thursday. Oh, apparently three turned back under Hanzova, think due to crack between rock and snow, if anyone has more accurate info even better :-D best, Janez
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| andrejp28. 06. 2014 13:17:46 |
At the entry to the route there is snow and you have to climb "free". I went today, tried but failed. So went around and below summit met two friendly alpinists descending Hanzova. Went with them, path dry, at exit rappelled on rope. Opposite direction-
up, one group led by alpinist who climbed initial pitch and belayed others over. So entry problematic. Start bit right of "the old" route where pitons or steps cut, then climb nasty traverse left and on ledge to secured path, ca 10m.
best, Andrej
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| planika823. 07. 2014 12:00:27 |
I assume the situation hasn't changed drastically in one week (especially given the not too warm weather....)? Maybe the upcoming warm days will thin out the snowy embrace at the entrance to Hanzova a bit faster...
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| Bandzo3. 07. 2014 16:09:53 |
I'd also be glad for some fresh info (well, 28.6. is pretty fresh info.) but anyway =) I have no feel for how fast snow melts in less sunny spots.
LP,
Ben
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| stane p4. 07. 2014 21:48:25 |
Whoever can't open the link should check the pics on the PD Skalca website/photo gallery, safe step.
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| 1mitjas4. 07. 2014 22:11:48 |
At the entrance there's a snow overhang. Climbing just the jump was easier today than 14 days ago, as the snow has receded a bit. Still, I advise against it for those who aren't climbers
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| oybl8. 07. 2014 12:49:54 |
This was taken on Saturday, 5.7.2014
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| VanSims11. 07. 2014 13:44:45 |
Does anyone have new info on this snow patch? How difficult is this climbing? First, second grade? Friability?
Thanks!
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| IgorZlodej12. 07. 2014 17:07:46 |
Yesterday 1mitjas told me at Kredarica that it's quite III.
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| VanSims12. 07. 2014 19:48:14 |
About a week or two ago it was probably really a three, although the wink at the end surprises me, which could lead someone to think the info author is just joking. Anyway, info from live experience today straight from first hand:
After the end of initial pitons, which are already snow-free, you need to free climb a really tricky narrow detail between rock and snow, it's just over a three, we could argue about a good two - at least a meter or two, until we reach where a rope is already sticking out of the snow for belaying. The real path probably goes left of it and is still under snow, have to climb on the right side. Then another five, six meters and the path continues normally.
Let's say it's now just a kind of selection, chicane for the inexperienced or those who accidentally stray there, like those common abroad at entrances to such ferratas.
Detailed report follows when it's its turn among the backlog I still need to write.
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| meta5020. 07. 2014 17:00:12 |
Today we went via Hanz's to Mala Mojstrovka. If we subtract the fog and wind on top, conditions are good. At the entry to the wall, you need to squeeze a bit between snow and rock, then it goes.... No more snow onwards.
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| VanSims25. 07. 2014 22:25:09 |
When I was little I often asked dad this and that about mountains. In his young years he went to mountains many times with buddies. I remember asking him how difficult the approaches to peaks are and for Mojstrovka he said it's quite hard. So I thought Mojstrovka is named that because you have to be quite a master to get there.  Today of course I know it's not so but the "logical" association stuck in my head: Mojstrovka - mountain for masters!
The Saturday before last I drive to Vršič. On the way to the pass cows surprise me on the road. Little Slovenian terrorizing tourists! I report to police! Despite thunderstorms forecast for afternoon there were quite some visitors and parked cars though far from usual crowd at this time. I park at the top and parking attendant approaches. I drive off immediately and park lower.
Then I head towards Slemenova špica. I overtake a group of Spaniards probably heading there, I turn at Vratca towards entry to Hanz's path. At Vratca I meet a couple, foreigners. He had helmet, she in - sneakers. They say going to Mojstrovka. Hmmm...  Well, probably that snow patch at start (now judging by pics above post very manageable) played positive role and scared off many inexperienced, as I didn't see them anymore though I lingered a bit before entry adjusting gear. At entry some foreigners (surely more than Slovenians in our Julijci) and two Slovenians. After initial fiddling with snow (now much easier) enjoyment began.
For Slovenian conditions path really well secured, though some unsecured spots in between. Midway secured part started clouding a bit. From Tromeja direction some shower came, went over Kranjska gora and I feared rain but it went on along Zgornjesavska valley. View from path really nice: Karavanke ridge from Kokova (Coccau) to Kepa of course Špik and Martuljek group and Prisank, other side Ponce, later Planica jumps and Tamar, nice view to Slemenova špica too. Of course indispensable Dobrač visible, further High Turje not due to clouds.
Secured part quite long and when ends bypass some snow patch then free climbing continues to top. I liked that. Usually when ferratas end you walk to summit e.g. along ridge, here interesting all the way. 
At top sky darkening and look to Austria where already raining properly. There sheep await me. They jump at me when I pull biscuits from backpack! Almost trampled me.  Yes you'll get some, yes! Now I need to eat too. When biscuits gone they lost interest and even fled when I wanted to pet them. Then look around a bit, nice view to Primorska side too, from clouds Mangart starts showing westwards but now see that from Austria it's close: behind Ponce all black! Let's flee!
Say bye to sheep and head down. Normal route back to Vršič (south path) poorly marked, at least downhill, also very crumbly in upper part. Poles very useful, especially with thunderstorm behind. And so Czech family passes me: Dobry den!, Ahoj! While I fled storm they went up!  Hats off to them! 
Downhill only lightly sprinkled me. Interesting to see how on Gorenjska side thundering hard, on Primorska just cloudy and dry. Vršič seems weather barrier! Path still wet anyway, tricky through gully especially, after that in control, to Vršič from there half hour more.
There to Tičarjev dom for beer, sausage and cabbage. Those Spaniards sat next table chatting. Heard also: los Slovenos! Hope they said good things about us and took good impressions from our country, despite another surprise on way back to Kranjska gora: cows on road again! Couldn't pass at all. Chase them with continuous about one minute honking. Call police again and they said they were there morning! Can't believe how rotten that guy is. Police leaves, he puts cows on road again nicely. Not to say he watched from afar amused. Doesn't care for damage, let alone accident. Why go to Vršič!
In KG ice cream then home! Subtract little rain - super tour!
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| SiKT7. 08. 2014 17:57:54 |
Today beautiful morning on Mala Mojstrovka, many people decided for ascent, especially foreigners. Path without major features. Video says most: Mala Mojstrovka via Hanz's Path
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| acjom7. 08. 2014 18:13:50 |
Is there still any snow patch at entry to wall?
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| SiKT7. 08. 2014 18:25:21 |
Some snow but beside path. So no problem, all pegs out.
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