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| nata2426. 05. 2011 11:58:39 |
The road is dry to the saddle, so just go for it 
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| pelvoux6. 06. 2011 06:45:36 |
Hi guys. Is it possible to reach Mangrtske sedlo by bike nowadays? Is there any snow on the road? Thanx a lot.
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| viharnik6. 06. 2011 07:06:40 |
Now the Mangart highland mountain road is free of snow till the top point 2055 m on the pass.
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| antik15. 06. 2011 22:20:00 |
When does the hut on Mangartsko sedlo open?
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| kalix17. 06. 2011 12:07:20 |
Has anyone already climbed Via Italiana to Mangart saddle this year? Is the access from the saddle to the via ferrata start okay? Thanks
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| 2061alessio17. 06. 2011 13:44:00 |
Good day, the via ferrata "Italiana" on Mangart is closed due to damage in one part (above the hole) from a rock slide. The safety rope is torn and hanging a few meters in the air down the wall, so there is no longer any safety for crossing that section. Whoever wants to traverse it now should know that it is an alpine route and no longer a "via ferrata". I informed PD CAI FVG through an acquaintance; we will put up signs as soon as possible stating that the via ferrata is CLOSED-INAGIBILE-CLOSED-GESPERRT. Thanks for all the info I received from Slovenes and Italians who have traversed it recently.
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| kalix18. 06. 2011 14:23:39 |
Thanks for the info, Alessio. I hope the ferrata will be fixed as soon as possible.
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| IgorZlodej29. 06. 2011 20:12:11 |
I had to check the conditions on Mangart a bit, so after work I drove to the saddle. At 15:30, when I headed to the "Slovenian [route]", I met four descending. It always seems strange to me that they choose the harder variant for descent, which can also be dangerous, but I quickly realized that a snowfield somewhere halfway up the gully had stopped them; they of course had no proper gear and didn't dare climb those 15 m of II either. Anyway, a smart decision—if it doesn't go, you just have to turn around (sadly some don't know that and then call 112). For me it went fine to the top, and back down the Italian route too. After crossing the northern screes, which by the way are all still under snow, I caught up with Iztok and we continued together to the saddle and the hut, where Vanda and Erik served us nicely, just like all visitors to this friendly hut. I think it's not out of place to say that trekking poles are not winter gear and on Mangart there's nothing to do with them; crampons in the morning and ice axe, and helmet should never stay at home—for the less experienced it's not extra if a more experienced person ropes them up.
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| viharnik29. 06. 2011 20:40:27 |
Good warning from Igor about trekking poles. If we slip on snow, the poles are more of a hindrance than a help. On Petzeck they diligently used poles when it had softened so much during the day. But they were lucky that all the steeper ridges of Petzeck were already snow-free. I even carried full Scarpa plastic boots up and used them in the summit section; the crampons stayed in the backpack.
So, thoughtfully and properly equipped with the necessary gear on harder routes.
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| katica30. 06. 2011 07:29:41 |
Since we're already preaching...
It's also not the smartest (and especially not educational!) to set off for such a high mountain at half past three in the afternoon and announce it publicly, even if you sign as Igor Thief.
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| otiv30. 06. 2011 07:44:03 |
@katica hello!
It's true, the early hour is the golden hour. But yesterday, I think, was something special as far as the climate goes. Although the sun was shining full blast, the dry air allowed mountain activities in the afternoon.
Good luck!
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| Janez Seliškar30. 06. 2011 08:39:02 |
@katica!
It depends on the individual's abilities whether the tour takes 3 hours or 6 hours.
Otherwise the ascent from Mangart Saddle is a nice conditioning tour for a true mountaineer.
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| Zebdi30. 06. 2011 09:18:19 |
katica, then also it's not smart (especially not educational) to post ascents in alpine routes. For someone with alpine experience (especially if they've traversed the route many times) Mangart even at night doesn't pose major difficulties. It's just about the level of ability and experience of the individual and preaching like that off the cuff is a bit inappropriate. It's right to write some general warning, but pointing the finger at people who really don't deserve it is off target. And best regards
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| Kozorog30. 06. 2011 09:51:36 |
@katica .. I have to say, people are very different both in abilities and fitness. If Igor wrote a warning it's far from preaching. It's a well-meaning warning that really counts, so that a person prepares for the tour. When I head to the high mountains, if I don't have 100% info that the path is completely dry I always take along with the helmet also ice axe and crampons and some "piece" of rope. In winter even the full "trio set".
For us who hike a lot it's completely normal... for some who hike less of course the well-meaning warning counts and I hope that most are like that.... only then there will be fewer accidents and exposing other lives for rescuing the unfortunate!
No hard feelings!
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| IgorZlodej30. 06. 2011 14:27:11 |
@katica is of course right, into the mountains, especially those so high, which are obviously very familiar to @katica, one goes early in the morning, so that we finish the tour by the time of increased heat and thus avoid possible thunderstorms that could surprise us and put us in danger. But since in my free time without pay I also work for the information commission at GRZS and sometimes need to prepare some warning, like this one: http://www.grzs.si/?MenuID=1&NewsID=1102 I just go when the weather and time are appropriate, sometimes even in the afternoon. From the saddle to the top I don't need more than barely an hour on any route.
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| JusAvgustin30. 06. 2011 15:01:18 |
even if Igor set off at 16h I'm sure he managed the Slovenian route in at most 2 hours, when he reached the top he still had almost 4 hours of daylight... We won't lecture anyone, everyone knows for themselves what and how, if they feel capable, sufficiently experienced and above all fast... Anyway all warnings on hribi.net are well-intentioned, even if it first looks like bragging and showing off in front of someone else... It's sad that this mentality is still present, especially in winter conditions, when there's no joking with the mountain/slope/couloir. Just remember last year or the year before. The fact is that we post tours and mountain descriptions to perhaps attract a certain group of people or just someone to try that tour, experience it... Such thinking that it's bragging is primitive, current conditions are also for writing updated data. And if anyone knows a lot about this mountain it's Igor. no offense, because of some poles we've ended up in debates like "is it necessary to have ice axe and crampons for ascent in winter". Ah and also, I myself post alpine routes (up to III+) all info I provide is equipped with warnings and additional explanations. I don't know why I shouldn't post descriptions of such routes if it doesn't bother the admin...
Best, Juš
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| velesa30. 06. 2011 21:56:20 |
What about in case of rescue? Then the time doesn't matter, whether it's educational or not - then the goal is to RESCUE, even if the rescuers expose themselves! And they must take care of their good condition in summer and snowy conditions and in all weather adversities. And in case of rescue, knowledge of the terrain is very important.
And Igor surely knows the terrain and conditions on Mangart (and many other places) well. I'm sure that self-praise doesn't emanate from his descriptions, but well-intentioned advice and warnings that are definitely worth considering. Good luck!
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| ljubitelj gora30. 06. 2011 22:23:14 |
Those who don't have the appropriate equipment should wait until the snow melts, because the mountain will wait too. Good luck and safe steps.
Igor Zlodej
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| MANGRT2. 07. 2011 20:09:49 |
Let's conclude this topic and look at the beauty of the mountains, not judge others' abilities.
In the morning at the saddle cold and windy. Depending on the conditions I decided at the junction for the Slovenian route up and Italian down. At altitude 2400m a.s.l., ice and snow from the night thunderstorm started, but it didn't cause problems. I kicked through one snow patch, crampons stayed comfortably in the backpack. At the top it was blowing hard, thermometer showed -7. Quick photo and descent to the saddle to the car for a well-deserved breakfast - GREAT DAY!
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