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| matej132. 08. 2015 17:43:40 |
next week I plan to go to mangart via the slovenian one...don't have experience yet with such demanding climbing path...so far I've done climbing on raduha and peco, on storzic through Žrelo and from Okrešlj to Brano...there it went without problem and now I'd like some slightly harder climbing path...do you rather recommend some easier than the one on mangart or would it go without problem?.thanks for answer
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| miri2. 08. 2015 17:46:50 |
@matej13,if you've done the described ones, the slovenian on Mangart shouldn't cause you trouble either.
Carefully and good luck.
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| planika822. 08. 2015 22:13:43 |
I agree with Miri. Slovenian on Mangart shouldn't give you trouble. It's one of in my opinion "easy climbing" paths, definitely suitable for gaining experience for harder ones.
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| matej132. 08. 2015 22:22:26 |
Thanks both for answers...there's still a bit of skepticism because I don't have self-belaying kit...will have to get it asap for such paths
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| planika822. 08. 2015 22:37:15 |
I wouldn't advise you to go without it, but in my opinion you don't need it on this path. Of course it's a matter of individual decision based on knowledge and experience. If you feel too insecure without it or feel fear, then better take it and use it as needed. Maybe you won't use it at the end, but the fear will be less
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| IgorZlodej3. 08. 2015 06:26:32 |
planika82, I absolutely disagree that it's one of the easier ones, our statistics are indeed very painful, so better avoid such comments in the future
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| Janez Seliškar3. 08. 2015 07:35:10 |
In case someone feels so confident that they don't use self-protection on such a path, there's no need to explain and recommend it to the wider public. It's harmful and dangerous for many!
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| Domch3. 08. 2015 08:18:08 |
Slovenian - helmet and SMV mandatory, especially in peak season when there's a lot of traffic and falling rocks. On the Italian one, helmet mandatory.
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| Zebdi3. 08. 2015 08:24:04 |
To me the Slovenian on Mangart didn't seem anything special. Just a secured path, of which there are quite a few in our mountains, but far from standing out in difficulty. To me it didn't even seem much harder than Hanz's on Mojstrovka..
Igor, do you feel like telling more about the causes of accidents on Mangart? I know there were a huge number of fatalities, but I don't know the causes.
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| urbancek3. 08. 2015 08:48:20 |
How and with what equipment someone goes into the mountains is a matter of each individual. If someone relies on misleading recommendations from forums etc., then it's exclusively their problem. If they endanger their own life with it, that's their business, since head, legs and more are only theirs. But if due to improper behavior or equipment they endanger others, they must be aware of that responsibility too. If not, then it simply can't be the forum's or some third parties' problem .
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| planika823. 08. 2015 09:11:35 |
As I wrote, the use of self-belaying is a matter of experience and knowledge. And I didn't write to go without it. I gave my opinion, which of course cannot be binding for anyone. I also read a lot on the forum, but would never take information received from others as the only objective measure for my own decisions.
Of course every climbing route is difficult, but we know many levels of difficulty. Moderately demanding, demanding, very demanding, extremely demanding… Among all climbing routes in Slovenia, it is in my opinion one of the easier ones. It doesn't belong to the rank of Prisojnik (Kopiščarjeva, Hanzova, Jubiljena), Dolgi Hrbet, Vrbanove Špice, Rjavina etc. But as said, this is my personal opinion, which cannot be the only factor for the decision of another adult person. I can express an opinion since the forum is intended for that.
I don't know what the accident statistics on Mangart are. Given what kind of "mountaineers" and "strollers" and in what gear and form one meets there, it doesn't surprise me if there are really many accidents there due to slips. I am almost sure that there are the fewest accidents from falls while climbing slabs due to not using the self-belaying kit. As far as I know, by far the most common cause of accidents in the mountains is a slip (on steep scree bases), where the self-belaying kit doesn't help at all.
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| Brdar613. 08. 2015 11:05:49 |
I completely agree with what planika82 wrote. I often read replies on the forum and with careful reading get lots of useful info—with careful reading and filtering unnecessary words. Some hang on the first word and then replying starts which only burdens the forum. I mean that if someone writes "in my opinion you don't need", we must understand it that way—not as something absolute. Everyone must know for himself and decide at the end himself.
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| Domch3. 08. 2015 11:43:09 |
The problem is falling rocks and scree. Experience, condition, terrain knowledge etc. doesn't help if someone drops rocks down and now in this time there is a huge amount on Mangart. Therefore protection is needed if possible, about helmet to discuss, there is no need. Then what I saw, Mangart and Triglav are the most problematic (many visitors, inadequate gear, ignoring alpine principles) and therefore surely at the top with accidents.
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| Linhart3. 08. 2015 12:13:21 |
I completely agree with planika82.
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| ZeK3. 08. 2015 13:10:31 |
I fully agree with planika82.
Also my opinion: today the problem is also that people go to the mountains thinking that gear buys them fitness, clear head, experience and orientation.
So I already a few times found myself in a situation where they "looked badly" at me because I ascended some approach route without self-belaying kit, on which I climb without it already 30 years. Last time they accused me of "irresponsibility" even on Tominškova, next to eating gels and equipped as going to Himalaya. Instead of looking at the beautiful surroundings, they looked at their GPSes.
To each his own, but stop this paranoia that on every secured climbing route one needs to take self-belaying kit and helmet.
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| VanSims3. 08. 2015 13:21:42 |
No, interesting, sometimes they give me side-eye if I have the kit where according to some, usually those who go to the mountains once or twice a year, I shouldn't have it: "Look at that guy, he's off to the Himalaya!".
So, you have it where you think it's right or necessary based on route rating and experience. I have it even when there's lots of people on a path, Triglav ridge for ex., although I could easily do without.
Only regarding helmet (last sentence) I'd say yes, on every secured path and some others, especially friable, steep ones...
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| Domch3. 08. 2015 13:24:59 |
That's true, but it goes both ways, experienced hikers think nothing can happen to them because they've been going without helmet and SMV for so many years, and don't need it. Sure, everyone knows what's best for themselves, but sometimes you have to think about the mountain rescuers too, whom you can drag into a rescue op with your thoughtlessness and endanger their safety too. Interesting that on Slovenian ones you don't need helmet and SMV, but on ferrata Via Italiana everyone would say you do, even though falling rock hazard is the same on Slovenian, just less exposure.
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| Janez Seliškar3. 08. 2015 13:30:45 |
Blessed are the optimists and the confident ones who go to the summit along any marked path without helmet and self-belay kit!
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| Zebdi3. 08. 2015 13:39:19 |
Janez? Since most accidents happen due to non-use of SVK on very difficult paths and not due to slips and such, right?
If we want to reduce the number of accidents, we'll need to focus elsewhere and not on self-belay kits
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| redbull3. 08. 2015 13:40:43 |
With falling rocks better not to be tied in, then you can't jump away so fast.
Janez interesting comment
Good luck
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