| jerque19. 03. 2025 21:11:03 |
Today's report from the "Inner Triglav".
Unlike more tourist-crowded mountains, Nanos can boast a presumed royal visit (besides the confirmed St. Lovrenc above Polhov Gradec), during the migration of peoples, more precisely between the Pannonian and Friulian plain, the Lombard king Alboin is said to have camped there for a while and surveyed the terrain for further conquests. Historians say it could also be Matajur, but anyway, Nanos was known in history as Mons Regis or Monte Re, apparently Italians still call Plešje that way, which really teases drivers on the highway  . Start from the most logical Razdrto for "newcomers" near the same-named AC exit, where surprisingly there are still two completely free parking lots (uff, remembering recently, even in remote Idrijska Bela they charge "Bohinj" parking fees on certain days). According to some unwritten "ethical code", the first should be left for cemetery visitors and first try luck a bit further right before the overpass over AC, which even saves us a few meters of walking . Midweek early morning there were really just a handful of cars, but apparently on weekends it's crowded, in summer real "United Nations" with Slovenian plates in minority.
Up the so-called steep path, which should actually be called "vertical", but it wouldn't hurt if at the start of the path with the triangle in official signs they warned in a few languages about the difficulty (like in much less demanding Pekel near Borovnica). Fortunately, the rocks dried after multi-day rain, so the rubber on soles held all the way, there's a chance to muddy soles on the very first part shared by both marked paths. With minimal early morning traffic, it was pleasant uphill, question is if in busier times you'd have to yield more to faster and oncoming. Or if in summer some inadequately equipped tourist "got stuck" in the narrow gorge. If avoiding is difficult in places, usually no problem finding spots for photos of the almost vertical wall right above AC. On steep ascent helmet doesn't hurt, especially if suspecting some "stump" above kicking stones down the slope involuntarily. Mainly in second half there are "ropes" and pegs for holding, at least one place the "rope" directs around almost sheer wall, so if vertigo-prone...
Path leads to transmitters on Plešje, which are closed and guarded, though there's a sign about analog transmission technology museum. In the "hole" under transmitters we find Vojko hut, which seems quite frequented judging by number of tables and benches around. Word "hole" refers to those who can't without immediate posting photos on social networks or other broadband activities (e.g. loading digital maps). Right around the hut the signal of operator roaming on A1 network was terribly weak, next to transmitters of course different story.
Where next? If anyone follows me by chance , probably knows I'm hooked on cultural and similar monuments. So let's try to reach St. Bric's chapel first. Heading to Suhi vrh, at start still some patches of snow, but literally just samples. Initially nice path to fork for Suhi vrh, continuation to Strane and Predjama... path is really scree-covered with stones and quite annoying, obviously not very frequented. But at least leads under mighty vertical Votla wall, which we can view more thoroughly than from steep path from Razdrto, where it only briefly shows its "insides". Expected ruins, but St. Bric chapel is freshly renovated.
Path to St. Bric took longer than expected, so decide to skip Suhi vrh, which apparently doesn't offer much "added value" in views compared to Plešje, for nearby window not clear if safe to reach it. So back to hut, then on so-called gentle path. Which initially instead of parallel macadam road leads right on edge with views to Vipava valley. On right offers overgrown Grmada, apparently without official marked paths. Since grass not growing yet, can cross it until finding not very trodden trail in grass leading to summit with logbook box. Here first sight of next target, St. Jerome church. Via poorly trodden trails back to "gentle path", which doesn't lead right to church, but from markings at fork (towards Podnanos) easy to find path to somewhat larger church, around which again bunch of benches. Then slowly time to return to Razdrto...
Name "gentle" or sometimes "easier" path promises, but... Lower approx. half is still OK, but rest to fork at St. Jerome is mostly rocky or stony, sometimes steep, mainly annoying, highway noise from Vipava HC below, no real views due to forest, mainly drags on and on. Not really suitable for family outing with small kids. Hmm, maybe for such cases third option, marked path from Veliko Ubeljsko near Razdrto?
On return parking was somewhat more occupied, of course far from full. Interesting, about half parked cars had IT plates, probably including two I met on return who greeted in somewhat learned Slovenian. Well, progress from times when TIGRs met on Nanos. Oh yeah, complete closure of Vipava HC towards Vipava from Razdrto upcoming. Traffic redirected to "old" road, probably increasing traffic through Razdrto considerably. Apparently expect such "ruckus", preparing traffic light at AC Razdrto exit.
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