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| JTrogar14. 10. 2018 21:15:46 |
Thanks Macesna! We really avoided the snow there. Climbing on the south side was difficult. The problem was the friability when we traversed under the ridge down to the right. Easier was then climbing along a side ridge when we spotted a nice gully that brought us right to the top. Difficulty a solid III or even more. Best regards and safe steps to all from under the beautiful Golte, Janez
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| iUnknown11. 11. 2018 09:15:43 |
I had the luck to first go twice in fog. Both times others went before me but I didn't see them and followed voices ahead. Then once in sunny weather I got a bit horrified seeing where I walked  Where did you go there where under Srebrnim sedlom flat terrain ends and path sharply turns right. Then two options either up a gully about 10m high to sharp ridge or back along ridge and climb somehow to ridge over a rock above quite exposed terrain. In fog I always went up gully third time saw two far ahead taking second option and tried it too. But probably not best way as had to pull up wall to rock quite high over my head.
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| LEA ŠTUMBERGER12. 05. 2019 19:30:03 |
Saturday, 11 May 2019, gully behind Vrata, descent over Repov kot or also over Planjavska zelenica. Demanding, interesting, wild and long tour. Due to the conditions we also raised some adrenaline. PATH DESCRIPTION!
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| Andy197812. 05. 2019 20:06:24 |
Nice to read that the tour ended as it did. Good luck.
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| mpp12. 05. 2019 23:25:30 |
@LEA Without gloves and wrapping in cotton wool. Given all the mistakes you made, you could only conclude: "You had more luck than brains".
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| John13. 05. 2019 08:32:42 |
@LEA, @JURIJ and others, you didn't have that – from what I've read, not even close to "we've got this". Not only did you not have "all the cards" in your hands, there are also very few JOKERs in the full deck, now you have one less. I don't want to moralize, even less to wiseacre... but this time, hand on heart, there was really much more luck than brains... in the mountains, especially in such conditions, counting on luck, we know how it can end. But smartly and good luck!
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| Bandzo13. 05. 2019 08:59:56 |
Lea, bravo for the successfully completed tour. Nicely shown how things can quickly get complicated. Many of us have experienced something similar, but rarely does someone post it on the forum. No need to moralize; the important thing is that others can learn something thanks to you from the comfort of their seat. The risk was solely yours, so I think moralizing from our side (who didn't bear the risk) is unnecessary. And yes: you've got this! When things get complicated, such thinking combined with good decisions is key!!! "Keep this" going and many safe steps,  Ben
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| Branee13. 05. 2019 11:52:06 |
Same song every time (forum wisdom), just that all came down whole and learned something from it. Otherwise, it's not smart to separate in such a situation, but happy end, all good 
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| jbv13. 05. 2019 12:27:46 |
@mpp & @John In nature, in the hills it's not always just nice. I agree that there was also luck, without it sometimes it's hard. Unfortunately, it sometimes runs out too. In the given conditions, one has to manage and think soberly, and everyone does that in their own way, with their best abilities and knowledge (the only "mistake", if I can call it that, was that we separated while I was looking for the right path myself). When the sun shines and you're walking on a marked path, it's not hard to be a tough guy. It's equally easy now to comment on how we're "stupid" or have more luck than brains. I'd be much happier with some constructive comment or advice than with some unnecessary wisdom-dispensing. And yes, definitely "we've got this!" These writings aren't boasting, we don't need praise or approval. We just write what happens to us, maybe someone identifies with it, maybe someone learns something smart from it.  @John & @Bandzo thanks, good luck to you too!  LP, Jurij
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| ms_primoz13. 05. 2019 12:44:20 |
jbv - advice? Did you actually expect advice?  
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| janezs7313. 05. 2019 12:44:51 |
Jurij, Congrats on the crazy good tour! We've all been through such tours. On such tours you toughen up, without them you never become a real mountaineer. As you wrote, when the sun shines and everything's fairy-tale nice, anyone can find the path. To avoid such tangles and "blackouts", I try to study the topography of the terrain at home in front of the computer via photos where problems might arise. I try to remember the most typical and prominent features (towers, ledges, shoulders), densely enough so that the information is useful even in fog (such pre-analysis once saved me in the NW ridge of Kočna, where my buddy and I had fog so thick at times I could've cut it). I always have GPS track on my watch, but sometimes it's not useful (especially not in steep terrain).
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| coffee13. 05. 2019 12:49:20 |
Rather in the sense of brainstorming ... did you think of going back down the ascent path, I think there's still an abseil anchor on the ledge towards the top of the Za Vratam gully, on the left side of the gully in ascent direction there's also an unmarked path, or to the other side of the ridge in the area of the marked route over Debeli sneg to Korošica, given snow conditions probably not such a problem.
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| jbv13. 05. 2019 12:55:23 |
@ms_primoz don't split hairs, you know well what I meant. After the war everyone's a general, that helps no one. That's how it was and now it's past. @janezs73 thanks! Yes, if you learn something from it, get new experiences, it's just + for future ventures. GPS is great to at least approximately know your location, as you say, not always useful, so you need to switch on reason and find the best solution in each situation. Sometimes it gets f***ed, but until you're there you don't know how it'll be 
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| dprapr13. 05. 2019 13:06:06 |
Most interesting about all these unusual posts of good tours is that sooner or later you discipline everyone to write as you like or they stop posting altogether.
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| jbv13. 05. 2019 13:07:46 |
@coffee You're 100% right, if I had to decide again I'd descend the ascent path and over the saddle back into Za Vratam gully. At that moment from the exit summit the easiest option seemed descent to Srebrno sedlo and out of the cloud ASAP.
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| coffee13. 05. 2019 13:12:48 |
Yeah, it makes sense, such "easier/quick" descents in crisis situations have tempted me too. 
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| LEA ŠTUMBERGER13. 05. 2019 16:48:24 |
Dear mountaineers. Thanks everyone for the thoughts, even those not best phrased, but I know you mean well. After all we all know nature is still nature. You can plan everything to the last step and something happens. Then resourcefulness is needed. All these are experiences, that's how we grow. If we want. Careful everyone in the mountains and thanks to all who enjoy following the posts. Greeting. 
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| lino13. 05. 2019 20:32:42 |
Lea, thanks for the greeting. Very mature and rational thinking. You know, compliments don't come easy from our tongues, we'd rather spew fire and brimstone and show off wisdom. Good luck and greeting. 
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