Prisank / Prisojnik - Hanz's Route
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| Guest10. 09. 2006 00:00:00 |
Yesterday I went up to Prisank via the Hanz route. The first snowfield is snow-covered and icy, so I advise everyone not to set out on this route without crampons and an ice axe.
The second snowfield is snow-free.
Best regards, Damjan
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| viharnik14. 08. 2009 19:13:32 |
As Marko already mentioned, the Hanz route to Prisojnik is demanding because it crosses steep snowfields, exposure is quite common, so the route requires caution, fitness and consistency. About twenty years ago it looked particularly miserable, torn and worn cables where it was better to grab some rock. Also on the Kopiščarjeva route through Prednje okno, at the key spot (inclined tunnel) there was only a piton you couldn't reach. We kids back then even casually went to check out Hudičev steber. Bravo, magnificent tour!
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| mako4418. 08. 2012 18:37:13 |
Thanks Lidija for the report...when I return from the Kamniško-Savinjske Alps I'll go check this thing up close. Safe steps ahead! I still need to study where the entry is.....
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| urbancek18. 08. 2012 18:43:17 |
That the Hanz is extremely demanding, I don't quite agree with that. Nor that it's somehow super beautiful... At least for me, we're all different and what one doesn't like another might. - Anyway, my opinion...
P.S: Aren't "smeri" (routes) more for e.g. sport climbing, while these are more mountain paths??
Ah, only now I saw that what I'm referring to is a few years old... oops...
Best regards!
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| mako4419. 08. 2012 10:04:34 |
Yes urbanček...that's how it is, when you're young you see things a bit differently and really, I too, when I was young, saw things differently than today. Still, I'd recommend you pick up some old book, or say the old Planinski vestnik issues, I have them bound from 1928...and you'll see how they viewed different routes back then. For my generation, the Hanz on Prisojnik was always an icon, know that I also did alpinism, saw a lot of it around the world but this route has a certain appeal...so I'll visit it too (no time before, then absence from the mountains). Safe steps and good holds. Good luck!
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| dprapr19. 08. 2012 10:41:44 |
It's true, when you're young you view things differently – I'd say with greater awe and less reflection, since you simply lack experience yet.
If you balance those two, then in "mature" years you only need to maintain physical fitness, assuming health allows.
When I first took this route, it didn't seem anything special to me. Kopiščarjeva and Jubilejna made a bigger impression. We simply perceive different routes differently. As I mentioned somewhere, the best combination in my view is Kopiščarjeva and Hanz in the upper part. Then you nicely complete a loop over Prisank to the summit. I don't recall if that connection above Ajdovska deklica is marked.
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| andrej7819. 08. 2012 13:10:38 |
The Hanz route is truly something special, it's not even that technically demanding, but it requires very good fitness, a sense of solitude and anxiety, and at the same time quite a lot of technical knowledge. I agree that in the Slovenian mountains it's something unique.
Best regards
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| mako4419. 08. 2012 13:26:25 |
Boštjan MK
Thanks for this link, I read it with interest because history interests me a lot too.
Safe steps, GOOD LUCK!
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| pika20. 08. 2012 08:35:32 |
Ice axe on the snowfield was not needed. Does that mean it can be crossed even without crampons?
Best regards.
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| ljubitelj gora20. 08. 2012 09:31:22 |
You don't need either crampons or ice axe.
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| merkur20. 08. 2012 11:48:06 |
@pika: As a rule, you never go anywhere with crampons and without an ice axe. The opposite sometimes works, e.g. in softer snow or by kicking steps, but it's not recommended. This applies in general, not to this year's conditions on the snowfield at the exit of Hudičev žleb.
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| ben20. 08. 2012 11:55:19 |
@pika: You don't need ice axe or crampons because you don't have to cross the snow – you can bypass it to the right downwards. 
Regards B
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| TanjaM25. 08. 2012 10:55:16 |
Yesterday we went up Prisojnik via Hanz's route, we planned the Jubilee descent, but my partner was tired and it was blowing hard, so we decided to descend (we couldn't stop because it was cooling us too much). Like a difficult path – to me it wasn't as hard as I expected, actually I liked it, especially the last climbing section. We went 'slowly' and took 4 hours 15 minutes. The snowfield is almost gone, but we crossed below to the right. Also some rock flew between us on the path, I only heard a sound like a gunshot... Only the path to the hut in the forest...khm, better to forget. But nice tour, varied, airy, overall super  .
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| b.temlin10. 09. 2012 07:46:36 |
Yesterday, 09.09.2012, we parked still in the dark near Koča na Gozdu, prepared for the tour, checked the picture menu at the hut and started. I expected a longer approach to the wall, short gentle descent through the forest, then a bit of ascent over scree-dwarf pine and rock. All slightly harder climbing sections well protected with pitons and cables, lots of free easy climbing. No snow anywhere, the area where snow lingers longest is completely dry, very dangerous and loose. Self-belay kit welcome on the cables, but on most of the route more in the way than helpful. There was some rockfall while traversing the scree below the summit, otherwise pure enjoyment on the ascent. Crowded at the top, descent via the ridge, quite a few climbers, descent through Prednje okno – via Kopiščarjeva route, here it was a bit harder, very loose, several cables torn. Given the heavy traffic, it should be maintained a bit. Hanz's route is nicer to me than Kopiščarjeva. Weather, views on ascent and descent, all great. Long, strenuous tour and certain passages very demanding for beginners.
Photos at http://www.pdmaticams-drustvo.si/
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| mdj15. 08. 2013 17:23:13 |
Nice tour and good photos especially 12,21 and 22,...congratulations and good luck further
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