List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Prisank / Prisojnik - Hanz's Route / Page 2

Prisank / Prisojnik - Hanz's Route

urbancek15. 08. 2013 17:34:12

@mdj: I'm glad, thanks the same to you too! nasmeh

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vukovivek15. 08. 2013 18:36:59

Today for the holiday on Prisojnik. I started from Vršič via Gerbenski path and returned via Slovenska or southern path. Otherwise quite a lot of hikers used the free day for hikes in the mountains.

and across Mlinarica to the second window

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dolenjka&primorc16. 08. 2013 08:45:10

..on picture 9 is Bavški Grintavec, on picture 13 Mangrt cool

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Daaam16. 08. 2013 09:49:02

..and you posted the description under the wrong topic (this topic is for Hanz's route) cool

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Todi6. 08. 2017 16:54:16

They fixed it a little, so Miha, Teja and I went to check it out. In the morning in Lj it was muggy 24, in Jesenice 14 and cloudy, we were already wondering if we would set off. The closer we got to KG the clearer it was. When we arrived at the hut under Gozd towards Prisank it was clear, we went. The only snowfield there was, we used the ice axe, crampons stayed in the backpack. We completed the route without issues and enjoyed the solitude and views, only above Triglav it was thoroughly overcast. On the summit a few climbers. For the descent via the southern path to Vršič. We had a fantastic time, ... nasmeh

Snowfield, though small, ice axe proved very useful.

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Todi7. 08. 2017 05:48:49

And also the video of this nice tour
https://youtu.be/0ab5_fTrruA

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darinka416. 08. 2017 21:36:01

I've had it planned for quite some time. This Hanz's and then to Jubilejna and back to the starting point at Vršič. You just need a nice day for one of my favorite secured routes. It's long and scenic. You might meet only a few hikers on Jubilejna even if the day is nice. And 15 August was a sunny day, much nicer than the day before when Špik was in the clouds.

waterfall where water always flows there

that fits after four and a half hours of hiking.

you need good fitness, as you meet few people

In the last part of the path to Vršič the path drops 300 elevation meters. Then it climbs back up 300 elevation meters, by then you are quite tired from the all-day tour.

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janez.novak16. 08. 2017 22:48:03

Darinka, is there still any snow under Hudičev steber - or do you need winter gear?

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darinka417. 08. 2017 05:22:08

You don't need any winter equipment. The snowfield below is nicely passable. Just nice weather. nasmeh

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janez.novak17. 08. 2017 13:59:20

Darinka, thanks for the info.

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alyas19. 08. 2017 19:30:48

PRISANK / northern approaches (conditions 18.8.2017)

Yesterday we also checked the conditions on the Hanz route and part of the Kopiscarjeva route (through the 1st window) to the junction back to the Hanz route, so we returned to Koča na Gozdu from where we started in the morning, after approx. 9.5 hours with two breaks for a snack or rest.

First about the eternal question whether there is a snowfield under the Devil's Pillar and whether it can be crossed without winter equipment. At the end of the scree, approx. 5-6 m to the edge of the chimney the snow has melted, otherwise there is approx. half a meter thick snow tongue covered with sand and debris, so it can be crossed a bit higher, but such steps are slippery and dangerous for slipping.
The entire Hanz route is fairly well marked, has renewed markings and directional red lines, a bit worse with markings just below the first window on the Kopiscarjeva in the downward direction, where there is a huge amount of dangerous loose scree and debris that gets triggered, mainly under the feet of numerous day-trippers from eastern EU countries wearing sneakers.
At the junction of the Kopiscarjeva back to the Hanz route under the first window, it says (though very faded): Koča na Gozdu 1h, but the descent from there takes approx. 2h. Some airy and dangerous places for slipping that are not secured must be kept in mind during the descent on the Hanz route and of course require full concentration. For Sunday and less experienced hikers, this descent is probably too demanding.

this big waterfall along the path suggests there is still some snow up there

over Hanzova stena the steel cables are OK, one peg is loose and needs repair

conditions crossing the snowfield, mostly covered with sand and scree, snow below is already diminishing

currently Hanzova is well marked and signposted

warning sign - this path is not for beginners

at Hanz's tower, from here a slightly easier section to the saddle of Hudičev steber follows

... but the easier section is obstructed by nasty scree and friable terrain under the wall

from here the world stands upright again

a more demanding climbing section follows, which is unprotected

on the airy sections below the summit, it is sensible to use a self-belay kit

view of the last ascent below the summit

without this metalwork it would be tough, but luckily everything holds perfectly

we continue along the ridge towards the first window

on Kopiščarjevi below the window there is huge scree and stones that shift underfoot

fork at Kopiščarjevi: left to Vršič, right to Hanzova and to Koča na Gozdu

link path - across scree, where one shouldn't linger due to falling projectiles from below the first window

from Kopiščarjeva across the traverse and back onto Hanzova

crossing the snowfield - second time that day, this time from above

some more caution and concentration needed on the descent, especially where there are no safety features

Koča na Gozdu below and over 9 hours of path behind us

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janez.novak19. 08. 2017 23:34:41

darinka4 and alyas: where did you two cross the snowfield (alyas picture 7)?

darinka420. 08. 2017 06:47:42

We two went where it was marked. It was easy to go nicely. Otherwise we had first planned to go a bit lower, but there was no need. It wasn't slippery that day. The only problem was that there were two climbers in the wall. We didn't see them. They triggered rocks. So we hurried to get over the snowfield as soon as possible.

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janez.novak21. 08. 2017 22:14:21

Today after a long time via the Hanz route to Prisojnik, descent via the Slovenska route. Conditions excellent – the path is in shade in the morning hours, yet it was cold, and the autumn cold wind was already felt. The path is very well maintained, there are many new steel cables. The snowfield under the Devil's Pillar is really gone, which is very unusual for this path. As already mentioned on the forum, the remnant of the snowfield can be crossed without risk, as it is covered with sand.

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Macesna26. 08. 2017 00:34:21

This week we also went via the Hanz route to Prisojnik. It was my first time and it seemed extremely beautiful and picturesque to me, and also skillfully routed. It is well marked and secured, but there are also some unsecured climbing sections and traverses where you have to stay focused. nasmeh

Regarding the snowfield, previous posters have already written about it. We also saw clever ibexes that threw a pile of stones at us near the summit logbook, but then gave up in their enthusiasm. jezik

Descent via the Slovenska, the upper part is still annoying – is anything left of the so-called marked path here, since there are traces everywhere, but we haven't found any markings in recent years. zmeden

View back at what's left of the notorious snowfield under Hudičev steber

Velika Dnina with Velika Martuljška Ponca and Oltar

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ursa221211. 10. 2017 15:57:19

Has anyone been on the Hanz route in the last few days? Is there any snow or snowfields?

redbull10. 06. 2018 19:40:27

Prisank - II.Window - Planja (10.06.18)

The eternal snowfield is even more substantial this year. On the ledges where there was snow, winter equipment is mandatory. Rocky parts are clear of snow. Below the Hanz tower, a very well snow-covered flank begins towards the Devil's Pillar. Before joining the ridge, it is already usual for that section to be snow-covered. To the II. Window there were two sections of a few meters requiring winter equipment. To the Planja saddle there is likewise mainly on the traverse a lot of snow. The path to Razor along the ridge is at least snow-covered up to the via ferrata.

view towards Razor, the fog has cleared a bit

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lijaneja6. 09. 2018 17:46:40

Yesterday I drove to Koča na Gozdu, crossed the Suha Pišnica, warmed up on the short scree and finally woke up under the drops of the first waterfall. Already at the start I had the feeling that there wouldn't be many people on my path, and indeed I didn't meet or overtake anyone. So that my brain wouldn't be too much 'at pasture', I set myself the task of counting the steel cables (which I found to be quite a demanding job nasmeh

). To the summit I counted exactly 40, most of them in solid condition. Damaged are (almost always) the 21st and 22nd, located just before the eternal snowfield, but they don't hinder the descent onto it, and the last two just below the summit. Since I've become a safety guy, I had an ice axe with me, which came in handy as I had to chop about five steps in hard ice. The next 20 traversing steps were easier because there was quite some debris on the ice. The continuation to the summit was without problems. When I reach the summit, I encounter only young girls, a little later a former colleague Matjaž joins us with a friend, which makes me very happy.
I descend along the ridge, at Vršič a foreigner picks me up and takes me to my car.