List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Velika Martuljška Ponca VMP 2602m a.s.l. / Page 12

Velika Martuljška Ponca VMP 2602m a.s.l.

lijaneja18. 06. 2023 18:14:44

I see Dnina is still nicely covered. Was the snow already soft in the morning?

(+1)

KLAN18. 06. 2023 18:41:17

Yes, around 7am it was already melting and sinking

(+1)

lijaneja18. 06. 2023 20:00:00

Thanks, Lan!

(+1)

KLAN19. 06. 2023 05:51:09

With pleasure velik nasmeh

janezs7320. 08. 2023 18:51:26

A bit clumsily, I put the description of conditions under the VMP route description... attaching some more pics for the feel

view from the overgrown ledge into the gully between MMP and Špik/Lipnica

the sunrise already illuminates the western neighbors

view from the scree below the ridge between Rakova špica and Škrlatica towards Prisojnik

red entrance gully that leads to the upper floor

also the upper gully, whose lower part surprises with nice compact rock... but it gives and takes - the upper part is rubble again

above the upper gully prusik (not the highest) for abseil over the slightly overhanging end of the gully

view of the famous ridge V.Rokav - Škrlatica with Financarji / Žandarji, behind which the unmistakable Triglav towers

and 360-degree panorama from the top of VMP.. views that few peaks can rival (since ALL the highest are visible)

(+6)

MANGRT2. 10. 2023 20:10:36

Sunsets are the most beautiful.

Instead of entering the shade, he simply persisted.

On the whole tour, the worst on scree slopes.

End of the climbing section on the left.

(+11)

Pizza3. 10. 2023 13:30:49

Mangrt, can that variant be done without self-belaying?

MANGRT3. 10. 2023 21:00:00

Self-belaying??
In such a wall, self-belaying is 1000% rock grip, solid steps, and a clear head.

(+2)

lijaneja3. 10. 2023 21:05:38

(+1)

lojze182528. 06. 2024 21:15:30

Today, 28.6.24, on VMP, ice axe and rope with me, both stayed in backpack. Snow still in red gully, avoided it lower, marked on pic borrowed from post above.
Upper chimney no issues. Belay station really huge velik nasmeh

From the top of the red gully, view into it.

(+9)

lijaneja16. 07. 2024 11:35:27

Early morning driving on 'gorenjka', sad thought hits me - hope not the last time up there. Oh if I were a bird to fly back (knees) zadrega

Parking below third hairpin almost empty, two dogs still dozing in front of hut in Krnica, cold shade all to Dnine. Bury bottle in snow under bivouac, lay wet clothes on rocks. Again choose approach behind first spur, all to summit dry, dry, warm. At least an hour wandering mighty mountain, visit cairn again, lose glasses in between. Sounds unbelievable, after 10 minutes searching find them in scree. nasmeh

Consequently started descent too much from west roof part, see no way and quickly find right direction. To Dnine saddle descended over gully and nicely slid almost to bivouac. There take almost an hour, as inside (with draught) perfect temp. First people see only at hut, no visits on nearby peaks (big three, Špik and MMP) whole time.

Žandarji and Škrlatica above the lower section.

Bavški Grintavec between Razor and Prisank.

Between the west. part of the mountain and the block, left Špik...

...which stands lonely again. (photo from the block)

I visited MMP, 100 meters lower, four days ago.

You can hardly miss the approach to it, the path in the scree is well visible.

Altar and part of the connecting ridge to it.

At the top of the lower gully there is a snow bridge which cannot be trusted.

Once again picture of the above approach gully. It has at least three abseil stations for descent.

Pleasure in sliding (for those who still have their original knees)

Mandatory visit to the bivouac, the only one that foreigners have not yet conquered.

By far the most demanding part of the tour. If this gully section is covered in snow, it saves enormous strength and time.

(+15)

bos16. 07. 2024 18:10:27

Tone, nice and well-deserved feast to your health, many more years... nasmeh

(+3)

zokipoki16. 07. 2024 18:29:08

May your knees serve you longer, to jump into forest, to hill, among larches, wherever eyes take you!

(+3)

lijaneja16. 07. 2024 20:36:47

Thanks, guys! Wish you plenty safe mountain pleasures too!

(+1)

lino16. 07. 2024 20:41:00

Tone, make a firm stand against gloomy thoughts. You still, by feeling and energy, belong among the older youngsters. Wishing you many more years of enjoying the mountains where chamois and birds reign! nasmeh

(+2)

lijaneja16. 07. 2024 21:49:13

I'm a born optimist by nature, Lino. I can chase away black thoughts too, but I can't ignore the fact that lately my knees fail me on longer descents. You know it's not normal if it took me a solid two hours just to descend from the bivouac to the hut in Krnica zadrega

(+1)

KLAN22. 09. 2024 23:47:12

Yesterday evening my buddy and I went to sleep in the heart of Martuljek. It was freezing in Dnina anyway, snow from 2100m just enough not to mess with it. Although I was freezing madly at times, I'd repeat the experience. In the "enka" we left 3L of drinking
water and "a bit" restocked the first aid. Cool spot, peace and beautiful walls all around. Our fears (Czechs in the bivouac) didn't come true.

(+7)

lijaneja23. 09. 2024 11:44:56

Bravo, Lan! Very commendable. Did you add some antifreeze to the water to keep its aggregate state nasmeh

?
I think that 'enka' and the bivouac in Kočna are the only safe bivouacs against easterners. Only here have I never run into them.

(+1)

KLAN23. 09. 2024 12:22:44

Thanks a lot velik nasmeh

Antifreeze hehe...there are two gas cartridges in the bivouac, so it'll be sortable. Really surprised me how nicely equipped it is. Bivouac in Kočna? Ugh, that's pretty well hidden too. May it stay that way nasmeh

dolenjka&primorc18. 11. 2024 10:42:39

For the end of the snow-free season (forecast suggests so) we visited our favorite mountains, the wild world of Martuljek. We popped up to Velika Martuljška Ponca.
We went from Krnica past the eagle's nest. The path in the lower part, which now with short days is in shade all day, is covered with 1-2 cm snow blanket that poses no problems. Higher up the snow is gone and the path is dry.
Wonderful day in Martuljek wilderness nasmeh