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Velika Martuljška Ponca VMP 2602m a.s.l.

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Jovan Cukut4. 04. 2011 13:34:27
Thanks for the congrats, Avgustin. Don't go to Kugy route now. It would be suicidal. Maybe I'll tackle it in summer. True, I bypassed the jump on the right side.
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lijaneja25. 05. 2011 21:13:27
Today my colleague and I visited the Great Martuljek Ponca. Here and there clouds obscured our view, but at least we didn't come home sunburnt. There's still a huge amount of snow in the Great Dnina and it could have been a bit harder for easier progress, but the descent was somewhat faster therefore. We met no living soul.
Velika Martuljška Ponca - goal of today's excursion. Right Oltar. Taken from in front of the closed hut in Krnica1
Prisank - to me a very photogenic mountain. (Zadnji Prisank, Zvonika, summit)2
Velika dnina - paradise for ski tourers - none today (Prisank, Jalovec, Mojstrovke, Mangart, Zadnja Rateška Ponca3
Zatrep of Velika dnina4
At the first jump5
Above the first jump; like on a pulpit. From Bavški Grintavec to Mangart6
And the second jump. The left gully is usable7
Above the second jump there is only an easy walk to the summit8
Očak with Triglavski dom on Kredarica. Under Mali Triglav Cigare9
Škrlatica10
Visoki Rokav11
Jalovec12
Oltar13
Razor14
Prisank15
Dovški križ, left Kukova špica16
Špik, left Lipnica, in front of it Mala Martuljška Ponca17
Bavški Grintavec18
Rateške Ponce19
Kotli and Gozd Martuljek20
Financarji21
Bivak I22
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Gorski lovec25. 05. 2011 21:39:41
really nice pics, congratsnasmehnasmeh
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Jovan Cukut26. 05. 2011 08:05:06
Didn't go over the belay? Ascent on hard snow is more interesting. Agree, Juš? Since you're in full condition, you'd bash up the gully past the bivouac to MMP too.
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JusAvgustin26. 05. 2011 19:33:27
some still don't want to realize that winter is over, although temperatures alreadyjezenshow it. definitely great tour! VMP is a household name!nasmeh
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Navihan1. 06. 2011 17:27:56
On Monday I was on VMP. Started from the third bend still in the dark past the hut in Krnica to Bivak I, rested and left a couple of things. To be honest, the goal was Bivak I, but I always decide based on the current conditions, so I continued up Velika Dnina towards VMP. Lots of snow but it did not ball up significantly. I climbed the first jump well before the chimney on the dry rock slope, then snow to the entry of the summit slope, which I climbed on unexposed passages slightly to the left and topped out right of the characteristic "tooth" on the ridge. From there I greeted the climber on V. Oltar and headed to the summit. On descent I followed the path and cairns. When it starts to traverse sharply to the left, I descended a small gully towards the edge and found a pitonnasmeh. Rappelled down the rope and a few dozen meters of snow still separated me to the edge of the chimney with the huge flake, which I bypassed on the right since I had seen the anchor. Another rappel and I was already on the way to the bivouac and rest. Next morning to MMP.
Up there the orchestra of silence plays.1
VMP and MMP2
Bivouac I.3
You also need to rest and only then continue.4
Velika Dnina.5
More to the left towards the first gully6
Somewhere there you need to find a passage.7
Entry point into the upper slopes.8
And up to the left.9
It would also be possible through this gully.10
Mountaineer on Oltar.11
At the summit.12
Cigars and Triglav in the background.13
We have to go down there.14
Peg, sometimes someone else does the job, but the picture deceives, as right after the peg, ...15
this, but I'm already down and pulling the rope.16
The belay station is on the other side, we'll have to go around.17
Škrlatica in the evening sun.18
There is already a highway between Razor and Prisank.19
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lijaneja2. 06. 2011 07:58:16
With colleague 5 days before you (desc, pics) descended from anchor few m left of flake on your 17th pic down rocks to snow. 30m rope sufficed.
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drago4010. 07. 2011 13:14:36
Yesterday in ideal weather visited VMP.
Since lots of snow in Velika Dnina still right time for VMP visit. But return very hot. Despite all gear, rope and crampons not needed.
on the snowfield before entering the first gully1
in the gully2
even on the summit daisies are blooming3
serrated ridge towards Škrlatica4
and Očak in the background5
enjoyer on the ridge6
after exiting the upper gully7
the slab still defies8
descent9
back in Velika Dnina10
if you want to take some photos your companions run away11
on the return also to bivouac 112
farewell to the bivouac13
and from VMP14
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JusAvgustin10. 07. 2011 18:36:00
nice! bravo, congrats nasmeh
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gornik6112. 08. 2011 14:25:46
Yesterday with mates climbed VMP. Day wonderful, summit rewarded unique views. Four more joined so ten on top, think big number for daily visit this beauty. Tour unique.
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ugn8. 09. 2011 20:17:53
Can someone who knows VMP approximately draw on the attached picture where the path or direction of the usual approach to the VMP summit goes? On the picture below on the scree there is a person - probably the usual path goes there?
1
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viharnik8. 09. 2011 20:35:28
We once went up the front edge of the short ridge above the highest scree, left of the shaded couloir; for the descent I sniffed out the route a bit before the prominent lone tower on the west of the mountain. Down we came to the left winding gully dropping to the upper flat scree. I advise against both variants. Approach due to extremely loose eastern ridge (big rocks loosen, holds remain in hands, exposed). Descent also not really orientationally easy nor easy, I-II descent on crumbly where you must pick firmer terrain amid mixed world (rock, scree). Original route goes somewhere in between to the gully.
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DarjaZaplotnik8. 09. 2011 21:22:21
It seems to me the most elegant variant is the following, and it is also a bit equipped with pitons or anchors for descent. In the upper third of Dnina on the left you spot a reddish, at first sight quite crumbly gully. Up it to the upper screes under the wall that is on your pic. In this wall you can choose continuation freely, but it is very pleasant (and equipped) to continue in the pronounced gully on the left. @lijaneja has it on pic 7, your pic in the middle, a bit shaded. It is about two short pitches. Difficulties around I.-II., at the end of the gully a small overhang directs you to the left. There you hit a good II., but the rock is well structured and compact. And you also have a piton for belay at hand. Then "free".
Otherwise, for an experienced eye it is no problem to find the path, as it is quite trodden, and there are cairns here and there. Just look well.

Enjoy your tour!

best d
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ugn8. 09. 2011 21:59:57
Darja, is this that gully?
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DarjaZaplotnik8. 09. 2011 22:27:29
Yep, that's it.
But are you going "alone"?
best d
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ugn8. 09. 2011 22:31:39
I'm not going yet, just educating myself...
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Navihan8. 09. 2011 22:54:29
Ugn, a bit more literature, which is never too much. On my first picture the approximate route is drawn. Both mentioned jumps are so characteristic it's hard to miss them. Descriptions also on http://www.ro.feri.uni-mb.si/~marijan/Velika%20Ponca/Velika_Ponca.htm and http://www.tejaoman.info/brezpotje_ponca.htm best
View of VMP from Škrlatica and the marked path1
Lower chimney with a ledge.2
Summit gully.3
Summit gully in winter4
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ugn8. 09. 2011 23:02:27
@Navihan thanks, excellent... now I can really just go... though looking at all these scree fields and gullies... it's really ideal for winter, for dry conditions it doesn't look optimal...
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Navihan8. 09. 2011 23:18:21
depends on the company, read Darja's question above carefully again nasmeh and given the nice weekend weather there's nothing to wait for. I'll be in these parts tomorrow too.
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ugn8. 09. 2011 23:30:51
Yeah, this weekend it's really a shame... at work...
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