Velika Martuljška Ponca VMP 2602m a.s.l.
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| tisa3. 08. 2013 20:02:10 |
strikan, what does the acronym Heat Strongly Presses mean
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| -4. 08. 2013 17:41:36 |
It was great anyway, in the Martuljek group it's nice at every end from Kukova Spica to Frdamane Police.
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| JusAvgustin5. 08. 2013 10:43:22 |
and beyond...  good thing the "real" jewels aren't accessible to everyone.
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| jprim5. 08. 2013 11:03:13 |
@JusAvgustin
Real jewels can be found by anyone anywhere, they just need to see them.
My jewels are just different from yours.
Regards!
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| _sandra_5. 08. 2013 12:16:17 |
@strikan: we saw you coming down the scree, and we met at the hut, nice tour you had
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| JusAvgustin14. 08. 2013 13:24:19 |
Congratulations on the tour! There are several approaches, each seasoned in its own way. Wild corners!
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| ajda14. 08. 2013 13:56:22 |
Edina congrats, well done
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| Edina15. 08. 2013 21:24:47 |
Thanks to both. The tour was exciting and the joy immense. I climb most mountains alone and sometimes it takes years to realize something so demanding that I can't handle alone. For Martuljek, Mr. Mihelič nicely wrote that only Dovški križ and Kukova špica are accessible even to those without climbing ambitions. He was very right. Safe travels
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| koma5. 06. 2014 21:35:41 |
Yesterday 4.6.14, decision falls for Great Ponca, which I admired already from Oltar last month. Since I haven't been in Dnina and on Ponca yet, studying approaches follows..chimneys, gullies, lower, upper level..! Again full winter gear at the beginning of summer reaches new records of backpack weight!
Snow in Dnina still abundant for this time of year, in the morning conditions still ideal, snow hard and compact then worse hour by hour.
For access from Dnina to the first snowfield I had in mind the often mentioned red gully (I assume that's it!, now it's white though!), but the exit was blocked by a huge cornice so I choose the chimney to the right, steep and narrow but completely filled. To the upper level via the gully with right exit. At the top nice with pleasant temperatures and views that take me quite too much time!
Descent via the upper gully I do with abseil, as it's fully equipped with anchors through the entire gully. In the lower chimney the descent is a bit more annoying, snow already well softened, no pegs for belay found! Follows longer stop at bivouac 1 and then quick slide to the valley.
For the ascent itself I needed less than 5h, for descent maybe an hour less! Didn't meet anyone, but noticed two hikers already descending from Oltar to Dnina in the morning hours, and TS who probably treated himself only to afternoon skiing! Anyway nice day in beautiful and wild corners!
More photos at the link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/114984210815592749863/VelikaMartuljskaPonca2014?noredirect=1
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| lijaneja6. 06. 2014 21:05:44 |
You took the surroundings well, koma. I plan from the same starting point on Monday with a colleague to visit the neighboring peaks, Oltar and MMP, and I'm interested at approximately what time it started sinking say more than 5cm?
Thanks for the answer.
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| koma7. 06. 2014 13:23:14 |
I'd say the best rule is: the earlier the better. I was surprised during ascent (8-9am) by the hard snow in Dnina, could have gone even easier with crampons, but when returning (12-13pm), it was already sinking to mid-boot, no collapsing. Otherwise for downhill walking quite ideal, even better for TS.
Otherwise conditions change quickly higher up too, especially in sunny spots, maybe until midday somehow ok, and even that more in shady gullies, ..couloirs, then everything south..these days even higher temperatures expected.
How conditions change quickly was nicely visible on the prusiks in the upper gully, during ascent they were all still hard frozen, on return after less than two hours water already running off them. Škrlatica was also constantly shaking off its white coat in the afternoon hours..
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| janez.novak7. 06. 2014 16:24:19 |
koma - that was another nice ascent. When you go on such paths again make similar reports so we who don't go there feel these mountains too.
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| lijaneja7. 06. 2014 20:23:28 |
Thanks a lot for the reply.
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| lukk10. 06. 2014 11:21:39 |
Hello, I'm interested in how demanding the tour is.
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| jedriličar10. 06. 2014 11:25:31 |
Very demanding .... count on at least 8 hours hiking, some climbing near top, and rope needed for descent through first chimney, and need to be up early, as we were above dnina at ten and already too late ...
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| lukk10. 06. 2014 11:27:19 |
But without a rope it wouldn't be possible, or is there some easier path to V. Ponca?
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