List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Velika Martuljška Ponca VMP 2602m a.s.l. / Page 5

Velika Martuljška Ponca VMP 2602m a.s.l.

JusAvgustin10. 06. 2014 11:27:55

Not really for moms with strollers... Climbing near III. grade in the chimney, orientationally demanding. You need to master basic alpine skills, early start recommended, because when the sun hits Dnina it's hell. Best to go with someone who's been there and is not a complete dilettante in such feats.

lukk10. 06. 2014 11:29:46

thanks.

JusAvgustin10. 06. 2014 11:30:30

"But without rope it wouldn't go, or to V. Ponca leads some easier path." Without rope lots can be done...

Better tackle something easier at first. Just advice.

(+1)

lukk10. 06. 2014 11:31:13

yeah just asking and inquiring cuz I'm tempted.

lukk10. 06. 2014 11:31:45

What about just to the bivouac in Dnina

Janez Seliškar10. 06. 2014 11:32:19

VMP isn't really a peak where someone would start their off-trail hiking career. Orientation is demanding, some climbing in the chimney, above all unbearable heat in Velika Dnina.

Janez Seliškar10. 06. 2014 11:37:19

Even if you go only to Bivouac I, orientation is demanding. Especially on descent some rocky tongue can quickly mislead you and you end up in scree above jumps.

lukk10. 06. 2014 11:38:26

Could you post some detailed description to get just to the bivouac in V. Dnina

jedriličar10. 06. 2014 11:55:00

Go from the hut in Krnica along the path towards Špik for about less than an hour, at one large boulder the path to Špik turns left, you go naturally up the snowfield through the notch under Lipnica, towards the gully between Špik and MMP. At the spot where the gully becomes visibly narrower turn right and you'll see an unmarked little path going up into the scree. Less than an hour scrambling and walking through scree and you'll step into the wonderful world of Velika Dnina. Bivouac is at the start of the vertical ridge of VMP and can't be missed ... and look at the pic I'm attaching ...

At this point you will have to leave the snowfield ....

And we go up the path ... over scree and rocks ...

(+2)

lijaneja10. 06. 2014 17:27:17

Şicer has already roughly described and outlined our yesterday's excursion, I'll highlight my own view too.
I planned to visit Oltar and MMP, but my mate persuaded me and we went to the mentioned peak, he hadn't been there yet.
The path start was really enjoyable, we started in pleasant cool, the little path is well followable, one part they even newly rebuilt, we step on snow, which in upper torrent channel part is up to 10m. We continue mostly on dry scree and when it ends, no more dryness on our further path. Snow was just soft enough that we walked to first pitch without crampons. We crossed the whole Dnina still in shade, summit ascent was already harder because sun softened snow too. On top we enjoyed quite a long time, whole day no living soul met.
Upper jump on descent in three pitches eased by Marijan's rope, though not really necessary (in my six or seven visits to this mountain never needed it), lower jump we bypassed, so that we ended up in Dnina some 100m lower. Lower access part to bivouac avalanches reworked again, so wire cable damaged here this year too.
Real treat was sliding with boots to first scree.

View from the snowy Dnina, which always enchants me anew. Left and right are Bavški Grintavec and Mangart, in between Prisojnik and Jalovec.

Foot of Velika Dnina. Sedelce between VMP and Oltar.

Marijan's respectful gaze towards the VMP summit. In the back, cigare and financarji.

This is what Marijan saw in the previous picture. The boulder he had to climb for a memento. The tempting snow gully in the picture is not the right one. That one is located to the right of the picture.

Today, the ill-fated Altar for me from Velika Martuljška Ponca. Some clouds were already dancing in the sky.

Razor, Rakova špica and Krn above Rogljica

From Bavški Grintavec to Mangart. Front left the boulder, which is nicely visible from the hut in Krnica.

Even Marijan, accustomed to the sun, was hot.

Lipnica and Špik. The picture also hides another mountain that is higher than both mentioned ones

Razor, Marijan and the already twice-mentioned boulder, which from here is not as imposing as ...

Paradise for ski tourers. But where are they?

(+12)

robinjo10. 06. 2014 20:41:10

Exactly, I'm "fovš" for you two.

(+1)

dolenjka&primorc7. 07. 2014 13:38:29

On Saturday late afternoon from Krnica to bivouac I., where we overnight and in the morning to VMP. There is still lots of snow in Velika dnina, so without crampons and ice axe you can't reach the entry to the approach gully, which is otherwise dry. Even up to the entry into the chimney crampons and ice axe are needed. It's a shame the fog spoiled the wonderful day for us on top. But next time mežikanje