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Velika Martuljška Ponca VMP 2602m a.s.l.

pika20. 10. 2014 21:32:03

When nice weather and a good hike align, one really can't complain. We, among others, had that luck on Sunday too. VMP can nicely spice up the day, although the descent is the most demanding in my opinion, especially the part where you hit the approach route. There are several descents marked with cairns, so it's not superfluous to mark the exit properly on the ascent (of course more successfully than Janko and Metka mežikanje

). We chose a bypass over scree and the rock step below it instead of the approach variant for the descent from the middle part and avoided the crumbly entry gully. Given the number of participants velik nasmeh

it was probably the most rational decision. Definitely a wonderful October day, photographed thoroughly by Strikan as always. Since photographers usually are missing from the pictures, I'm attaching two of his nasmeh

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ljubitelj gora21. 10. 2014 21:22:57

Some more photos with descriptions in the web album: https://plus.google.com/photos/114400986607884783562/albums/6071572905370003185

ejti21. 10. 2014 21:23:39

It was a super tour in beautiful autumn weather and excellent company. Such a day stays in memory! But I don't understand all these hostile comments well...

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viharnik22. 10. 2014 15:28:54

Strikan, you are excellent! How many provocateurs I had around me and yet I still exist nasmeh

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Jovan Cukut22. 10. 2014 15:52:35

A bit late, but anyway. Second or third time on this portal. Regarding everything that's posted on it. And probably it won't help anything.

Hey, 'people of God', all of you who sign with pseudonyms, why so much envy, provocation, belittling, hostility, humiliation, teaching someone, insults, with sentences without head or tail, full of grammatical errors and everything else that doesn't belong on this portal. Of course, it's easier to write nonsense under a pseudonym with no responsibility, than to do a good trip, especially pathless, publish it with full name and surname, in beautiful Slovenian, with comments, conditions on it and drawn route, for all those who come after who would like to repeat it. And, if I were the editor of this portal, I would delete all anonymous users on it who are ashamed of their name and surname.

If the entire political and economic elite in Slovenia is at odds, let's not be us mountaineers or anyone in the mountains, let's be tolerant to others, friends, as an example to politicians, since we're not all the same, some know and can do more, others less, we don't all think the same either, but we can help each other, with advice, personally, by private mail or with a counter-post of the trip in pictures and comments, say, how the ascent to VMP should properly go and not immediately insult any author of the post from the first time. Even if he made a mistake on the trip. As if none of us has made one. If not any, then at least that, by posting a trip, proving himself to himself and the environment he lives in. Whether they admit it or not.

And another good comment from this portal: 'Mountaineers grow with years and usually reach for more demanding paths and pathless routes. From these experiences and walked paths, information and data also arise for those who come after us'. We all learn until death.

And another: '... but if for me this, that someone 'boasts' about such an ascent, instead of a healthy wish awakens only typical Slovenian envy, then it's better that I avoid both reading and commenting. Except in the case of supplementing necessary warnings, if the author didn't mention them'.

Juš, don't you see and it's obvious that Lizika is teasing you, but, 'what one loves, that teases one', so arrange a getting-to-know trip above Martuljek with difficulty V to VI and just make sure Lizika is leading. Chivalrously, you'll carry all the gear. If not that, then at least be tolerant to each other and don't poke each other anymore.

Also all the others. And just make sure I don't start again on this portal with: 'Hey, 'people of God' …

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geppo22. 10. 2014 16:52:32

I don't belong to those who look for mistakes of participants when viewing photos (how someone is turned, how many climb in the chimney, how they hold the ice axe..? etc.) and then comment on it. It seems that we'll have to watch out for that too... and keep such things only for the home archive.
The forum has changed a lot since 2008, when I started writing on it. At the beginning, most descriptions were aimed at easier trips, now it's like competing who climbs faster, harder and unknown to most...
Interesting that in most descriptions men predominate, women just add a photo or a short comment. It all looks like a fight for the most "alpha" male of the forum. Sometimes "Jožica" wrote something heartwarming and then lured some into a trap, who then wrote extensively... velik nasmeh

She shattered some "egos" and then the writing started...
Maybe someone is upset if someone wanders their "home yard" and discovers "hidden corners"??
I think it's a shame if someone stops posting their trips and photos immediately because of a few negative responses.
lp

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janez.novak22. 10. 2014 17:08:31

I, on the other hand, happily browse reports from such trips (Martuljek mountains, Ponces, Zeleniške peaks,...), since I'll probably never be up there, but with such reports I feel like I'm there. Comments of all kinds are always there, what do you think, tensions and different opinions don't appear among top alpinists too (Himalaya, Tomaž Humar)

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VanSims22. 10. 2014 18:18:55

http://www.hribi.net/forumblokiraj.asp?nastavitve=1

This exists but the problem is that you have to stay logged in to the portal all the time because when you log out, you see those people's comments again.

As for Lizika, that's not a mountaineer at all, neither male nor female, but just a regular web troll who jumps around forums and treats their complexes by teasing, challenging and provoking users.

As for introducing non-anonymity, I'm immediately for it, if there will be a system that checks if the name and surname are really correct. Otherwise it's useless: authors of contributions will have real name and surname, provocateurs will have fake ones again.

Bandzo22. 10. 2014 19:03:09

Yes, ego is the devil's thing. I don't say that we're not about self-improvement, pushing yourself to your abilities and thereby learning, strengthening and gaining valuable experiences. Not only in mountains. Everywhere. But there are always people who will seek approval. Ego stroking, magnifying some "general facts" so they feel better themselves, to give their hobbies, successes, decisions some meaning or weight... You can be an expert in one field and a total fool in another. And there's nothing wrong with that, if someone asks me something. But some can't accept that and mock such people. I'm personally very negatively inclined towards egomaniacs who lie to themselves when someone tells/writes something that stings them, which is true. But with years a (smart) person learns that it's worth striving only for certain things. Only for those that mean a lot to you. Spending energy on every such idiot who crosses your path is just stupidity. But that's exactly what makes you angry! How can people be so "twisted". So offensive and so negatively inclined. But it's best to swallow that anger. If we leave such posts and writings alone, they will fade out. Only the date and the name of the one who wrote it will remain from such a writing. But if we debate about it, we'll fill who knows how many pages, all for nothing. Everyone must ask themselves what they want from this forum and how they can contribute to its improvement. And comment/not comment accordingly. Anonymity is a product of the virtual world that we must take into account. And at the same time realize that such anonymous provocateurs contribute nothing to the meaning and point of this forum. So it's best to ignore them. And we just keep happily going to the mountains, where there's no anonymity, but paradise. The following, though English thought, is for EVERYONE who does NOT FIND THEMSELVES in it: Starve the ego, feed the soul. Understand as you must. And best regards!
Ben

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redbull22. 10. 2014 19:11:17

Now everything is quiet from Lizika.

I've always been of the same opinion as Jovan

VanSims22. 10. 2014 20:56:28

There's nothing wrong with egoism at all. The problem is that what most people take for "egoism" isn't egoism at all. And that there are only a handful of people who know well what it is and live accordingly. And those are winners, the rest losers.

Of course, the "ego" that @Bandzo describes isn't real egoism at all.

Say if someone thinks that user @Lizika is an egoist (whatever gender it is), they are sorely mistaken. The time they uselessly spend wandering forums and provoking others they could usefully spend on themselves, for their own good, for their life and achieve something in it and then wouldn't need to seek some substitute satisfaction for a happy life precisely in web trolling. Two flies with one stroke!

ljubitelj gora28. 10. 2014 19:13:04

There are 3 anchor points for descent in the gully, one picture 18.10:

lijaneja28. 10. 2014 20:46:42

I enjoy visiting that mountain in spring time. The gullies are nicely filled, practically no jumps, the nasty scree in Dnina is covered with snow...

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geppo18. 07. 2015 21:53:53

Great Martuljek Ponca 2602m
Milan got a bit tired of scree, "central gullies" velik nasmeh

and all accompanying problems in exploring pathless routes in KSA... in short, it pulled him to the Julians. For me it's all the same anyway, as long as we walk and climb somewhere...
After a bad, short sleep in a too hot night, I get up at 02:00. At the agreed 03:00, Milan and Zdravko are at my place and we drive towards Vršič. At 5:10 we park at the Russian cross and descend the forest road. At 5:38 we're at the hut, quench our thirst and follow the marked path to Špik. Then into the wet gully, as if we don't have enough in KSA... mrk pogled

Through the gully Velika Dnina, scree, loose rocks, snow patches, Milan is cold in shorts... A helicopter circles above Škrlatica..?? hopefully no accident happened??
From scree into quite steep wall, scattered all over with loose rocks. Sun is already properly warming. On the plateau we choose the gully we'll enter. Rock in the gully quite good, some loose rocks and stacked stones that don't hinder climbing. We don't use already made anchors neither on ascent nor on descent. At 10:30 we're out of the wall and slowly climb towards the summit in the sun. Views wonderful. We stay on top for quite a while, chat, observe, photograph. When we start descending we hear shouting from the top. Someone asks if it goes without rope? When we're out of the wall we snack and then notice he's started descending. It goes so well for him that we're not worried. We three descend via scree. Descent to Velika Dnina we do via the other variant, which I like less than the approach. It's all full of loose rocks, real caution needed…!! A sturdy guy catches up to us and we continue descent together.
I breathe a sigh of relief when I'm back on snow. Sun starts showing its power and it gets really hot. We quickly get through Dnina and already in the gully. Here it's hellishly hot. Sunlight reflects off light rocks and blinds.
I can hardly wait for the descent to flatten a bit and to be at the fresh cold water at the hut at 14:45. A little more effort and we're at the car and beer in Kranjska Gora. Nice trip, only the gully in scorching sun will stay in memory. What can you do, it's summer… cool

Milana is cold in the morning in shorts :))

First part of the wall, which is quite covered with scree

This one is for you, mountain colleague...:))) Bavški G.

From the plateau we choose the approach gully up which we will climb. Tracks in the scree reveal to us which one is used the most!

View towards the gully from which we climb

The descent down here is .... it seemed to me due to the friability and scree even harder than in the gully

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ljubitelj gora18. 07. 2015 22:34:58

Nice, what grade would you give for the gully? When I went through it, it seemed II+ to me?

geppo19. 07. 2015 07:31:15

LG
your grade is quite appropriate. No great exposure, since you're in the gully. So no III either imo. At two spots it felt a bit harder (later on descent). Otherwise nicely climbable. At least the rock holds, that's most important for me...
best

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Edina19. 07. 2015 07:32:45

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MANGRT2. 08. 2015 20:02:13

1.8. First aim was Špik but path took me into pathless terrain towards V.M.Ponca. What to say about uphill scree walking when snow melts. Since I didn't mind I turned left into ridge early at Velika Dnina start. Here and there a cairn for direction unnecessary for me. To summit climb two couloirs and roof to Ponca top.
Return via standard gully to scree which balances tough ascent with fast descent. velik nasmeh