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Velika Martuljška Ponca VMP 2602m a.s.l.

bos13. 08. 2021 06:59:52

Yesterday Tone and I went for the annual inspection, my first time, him already ...
I'll add a couple snapshots, Tone will surely write more jezik

on the way back we treated ourselves to sweets.

up there, what the middle finger shows us, we joked.

to the left there was a crowd, straight ahead we were alone.

Bavški Grintavec and in front of it Srebrnjak and Trentski Pelc.

Škrlatica, Razor, in the background Bavški Grintavec and Prisojnik.

visit on Škrlatica, also on Oltar and V. Rokav there were people.

towards Gozd Martuljek, from where I had only looked at it until now.

On Peči, to the right cirque Za Ak and above it green Rutarski Vršič.

There is also the Triglav rose on the summit.

Tone said I must traditionally sit on the stump for the photo.

Špik, almost invisible MMP in front of it.

We descended into the gully from the right.

Towards the bivouac, Zoisova zvončica can be found.

(+9)

ppegan13. 08. 2021 09:20:00

Boštjan, wow, wow and one more wow mežikanje

Hope it comes to me this year too. How much time did you take for ascent? How demanding is that gully from the scree onwards? Supposed to be some III...

(+1)

lijaneja13. 08. 2021 10:19:44

Polona, Boštjan is fast, so the 4.04h figure isn't the right measure, although we lingered in front of the hut in Krnica at least 20 minutes in the morning, and my 'changing' on the way also takes some time. mežikanje

True, if you don't waste the gully well, you're quickly in III, that's why I prefer walking comfortably on snow in spring.

(+1)

ppegan13. 08. 2021 10:28:28

Tone, thanks, seemed to me you guys were fast mežikanje

lijaneja13. 08. 2021 16:27:48

I visit this beautiful mountain every few years, but never as late as this year. From the parking lot we started a bit after half past six, the path through the forest to the hut is a real carpet in some places. The continuation is the complete opposite, especially the stream bed, which is dry except for the last 150m. The first snow, where I cool my drink, is only at the bivouac height. We walk in the shade all the time, as the mighty wall of Oltar, Rokav and Škrlatica only lets the sun peek into the Dnina in the mid-day. We ignore the classic approach over the lower chimney and turn into the wall already behind the second spur, the already strenuous scree fields were spiced by the sun too. The second chimney has no alternative, before my 'slab' we dodge left, where only once on the tour the difficulty approaches a three. Then a stroll to the summit, where we enjoy the good views for a good hour. Most of the time only Široka peč and Dovški križ were in fog, and the eastern slopes from Oltar to Škrlatica, so I couldn't show Boštjan the Triglav Lodge. smile

Down went express, only Gruntovnica didn't disappoint with its sauna, so we cooled off longer at the hut.

Parking below the third Vršiška serpentine (940m)

Ponca with Oltar from in front of the hut in Krnica (1113m)

The white snake winds towards Špikova škrbina.

May it stay so blue at least until the descent. Prisank with Zvonikoma, Goličica and Mojstrovki

Central part of Velika Dnina with Boštjan.

The most prominent bivouac on our ground.

Already walking on the scree of the first level

View from the upper edge of the lower chimney.

From the top of Ponca. Škrlatica is quite crowded

On Visoki Rokav I just barely missed them.

The most crowded peak in the area is of course Špik.

In front of Prisank Poncin čok, in the back BG and Pelci.

On the slabs, upper and middle Kotel, and Rute

Špikin Lipnica, before it hardly noticeable MMP.

Summit ridge with Oltar in the background

I hope I'll manage it one day when it's in the shade (MMP) or the background.

Špikec with three times more demanding Rušica and Rigljica

New quality stamp box, which I cannot say for the logbook

Souvenir of Veliki Skutnik from 13.7. this year.

Ponca's landmark with the symbol of mountaineering

'Skalca' above Boštjan's right hand rejected me once a few years ago.

For those with a rope, there are even two anchor points.

Mists east of us show no sign of thinning

Nicely tidied bivy, although trash is accumulating.

Ridge of Rateške Ponce, on the left M. Mojstrovka and Mangart appear

(+11)

jax19. 08. 2021 20:59:58

So you can't get to the bivouac without crampons? I really wouldn't want to drag winter gear along with all the hardware...

lijaneja19. 08. 2021 21:52:23

---First snow, where I cool my drink, is only at bivouac height---
What hardware do you think to drag up there? confused

(+5)

jax19. 08. 2021 22:13:06

OK, on the photos it looks a bit different to me, but OK, we'll decide. Thanks.

jax2. 09. 2021 16:51:44

This is how it was yesterday. For the ascent we used the right variant (somewhere in the middle of the fourth picture, not the diagonal chimney on the left), there too at the top there's a solid two, otherwise short spot with good rock. For descent there are also two bolts for abseil here. Otherwise a wonderful tour, the most delicate part is the completely broken Gruntovnica, after that it's always better.

(+10)

zokipoki2. 09. 2021 17:48:17

Wonderful jax!
My wish, someday, maybe... good luck!

(+3)

jax2. 09. 2021 18:08:23

Thanks. It can be done. In reality, the most annoying thing at Martuljek is that all tours involve some kind of "entry tickets". In Dnina you have to fight through Gruntovnica, to Akom to the Three Larches, a bit nicer only to Bivak II. All that are desperately dangerous passages on the ugliest scree and sand, where you never have things fully under control. Once you're at some height, everything is nicer and easier. And on Ponca it's the same. Once you're on the upper screes, it's perfect and spectacular, on the harder spots you can ultimately also improvise. You just have to get there. So, definitely not tours for every day, but probably the time will come when I'll want to scratch there again.

(+2)

redbull2. 09. 2021 21:45:20

Nice, bravo

It's pure delight to the three larches wink

(+1)

Dr_Ursic26. 03. 2022 07:09:45

VMP, 25.03.2022
Some photos. Snow is more punchy - crusty. Overall, a super well-spent day.
LPD.