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Velika Martuljška Ponca VMP 2602m a.s.l.

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DarjaZaplotnik8. 09. 2011 23:33:36
Well, @Navihan and I will remember you then, he from Martuljek ends, me from western-Julian ends...mežikanje

best d
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Navihan12. 09. 2011 20:59:39
@ugn highlighted VMP with his questions, so I added it to my Martuljek weekend. Saturday to Sunday I bivouacked under the open sky at Bivak II, yesterday morning went to Veliki Oltar, descended the ridge to the notch between VO and VMP. I didn't take the ridge onward from the notch to VMP because I was solo and low on water (day 2). One abseil to the basin of Velika Dnina, only a scree crossing separated me from the entrance to the lower chimney of VMP. Without trouble I was soon on the summit of VMP.
On the summit I met nice, experienced and fit climbers from Škofja Loka who offered me a ride, since my car was in Vrata and that motive was so strong that I managed to follow their pace. From the basin of VD or the bottom of the chimney to Koča v Krnici in two hours.
On top of VO. View towards Rokavi and Triglav.1
On top of VO. Rokavi, Rokavski greben and Škrlatica.2
VMP, my goal.3
Crossing from VO to VMP starts from the notch between VO and MO. The first upper part is crumbly, lower part partly compact.4
Towards the notch between VO and VMP.5
Peaks familiar to most.6
Crumbly ridge continuation from notch to VMP7
Before jump between notch and Velika Dnina.8
Velika Dnina9
Lower chimney VMP10
Upper jump. I chose the left gully, but right one is also possible.11
Fixed protections in the upper gully.12
View from the top of VMP towards KŠ, ŠP, Škrnatarica and DK. I was there the previous day ha ha ha.13
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DarjaZaplotnik12. 09. 2011 21:09:04
Bravo! Shame the smilies set doesn't include the clapping one.
That ridge is really a bit tralala... well, now you've brought nice pics.mežikanje

best d
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ugn12. 09. 2011 21:20:19
navihan, I'm glad I helped you with such a fine tour... right incentive is importantvelik nasmeh
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Edina12. 09. 2011 21:48:35
Two demanding, loooong and beautiful hikes in two days, in between sleeping under the full moonmežikanje Super!
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JusAvgustin13. 09. 2011 15:08:00
"paradajz" is a story in itself... We were already on the ridge (in winter) but turned back a few meters before the end because of healthy common sense...
Winter tomato1
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Navihan14. 09. 2011 01:40:18
Thanks everyone for the congratulations, "paradajza" of various colors and shapes is plentiful in Martuljek for sure and it definitely needs to be tackled at the right time with plenty of healthy common sense and caution, and of course without proper gear it won't do either.
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Volk18. 09. 2011 19:47:49
Yesterday finally visited this bold Martuljek rascal too. nasmeh
Long tempering for this view ...1
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viharnik18. 09. 2011 20:20:41
Volk did you go to VMP up the far right upper scree and then the short steep and very crumbly ridge to the summit plateaueek. On the pic I see that erosion crack of the gully on the mountain top.
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Volk18. 09. 2011 21:30:32
Viharnik, mountaineers (and mountaineeresses) use informal you after all, right. mežikanje
To VMP I approached the 'normal' way I think. Up crumbly gully (Navihan's 10th pic) to intermediate plateau then left chimney-gully (Navihan's 11th pic) to summit. Descended route of ascent.
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Stumby20. 09. 2011 17:46:41
Don't know why everyone rushes into that crumbly gully... the variant right of it is nice and surprisingly solid chimney, maybe II-III, which Mihelič describes in Northern Approaches guide. True, no prusiks or pegs inside... but descent possible too as rock really compact for this world... since had rope just in case, rappelled comfortably down that crumbly gully where prusiks every 3m really velik nasmeh
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Volk21. 09. 2011 09:30:22
Stumby, where anyone goes is their business. Anyway I hear there are more variants there. Don't care to me if someone even detours over north walls of Škrlatica.
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dprapr21. 09. 2011 12:59:45
Volk, completely agree!
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JusAvgustin21. 09. 2011 14:39:29
I only know those variants... lower gully, upper gully, right chimney, left chimney, approach ridge from MMP, approach over paradajz, winter chimney. Roughly same yellow-red crumbly rock everywhere, loose II, only middle chimney fairly compact and III. Otherwise winter approach much more attractive than summer scree. Descent rope recommended. Rappels equippednasmeh

Long live great M.mežikanje
Descent1
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pika7. 07. 2013 14:46:05
Ponca this weekend still wasn't available for a visit. In the morning it wrapped itself in fog, but when it let the sun out, it revealed a large slab completely blocking the passage from the gully to the notch. For the return some rain and a salute thrown over the shoulder: maybe see you next time mežikanje.
the fog slowly lifts1
Krnica Velike Dnine - still plenty of snow2
exit from gully to notch blocked by large slab3
slab up close4
5
not Ponca, but Martuljek and nice :)6
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Branee7. 07. 2013 15:45:49
That's not the only passage.. There's one lower and one higher (or you can climb that right little rock - tested)
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pika7. 07. 2013 17:02:29
Branee, thanks for the info.
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alyas28. 07. 2013 20:46:52
28.7.2013 Krnica - Velika Dnina - Great Martuljek Ponca (conditions 28.7.2013)

Already in the head of Krnica below Velika Dnina you encounter a larger snow avalanche deposit, which due to its gentle slope causes no problems, the right branch - path up through scree and larches must be sought even from the snowfield, a cairn helps too, we placed quite a few today. A bit below Bivak I and further to the end of Velika Dnina snowfields are still fairly continuous, but we crossed them all today without crampons.
For access to the first level below VMP we chose looking up the last option, "red gully" (from Stritar desc.: 111 tours), which is crumbly but normally passable with easy climbing. For summit access to VMP the shortest, far right gully, requiring some more pitches and climbing, for descent over this section belaying is highly recommended - about 60m of rope is enough for hardest part and abseil. But since existing pegs are few (saw 2 usable), an extra prusik is not superfluous, we also used (and left there) one from previous visitors.
Tour is orientationally and fitness demanding, we took almost 10 hours. More details in pics. If anyone wants Garmin track, can write me.
early morning in Krnica1
thick snow slab at the end of Krnica below Velika Dnina2
we avoid the large rocky gully below Velika Dnina on the right - up through scree and sparse forest3
extensive scree slopes of Velika Dnina4
bivak1 below VMP or on Velika Dnina5
more or less continuous snowfields across Velika Dnina above the bivouac6
First option for access to the first level below VMP7
second option for access to the first level below VMP - via rdeči žleb according to Stritar's description -111 excursions8
... which access to choose to the summit ridge of VMP - we go right9
the extreme right gully is the shortest, with good choice - up goes without aids, for down a rope is very welcome10
in the gully you find one old piton, above it another11
spacious summit and ridge of VMP12
for the return - ski glissading over snow patches13
on the green section of the path to the valley, chain crampons are also welcome14
Views: Škrlatica from VMP15
Views: Prisank from VMP16
Views: Lipnica and Špik from VMP17
Views: Veliki Oltar from VMP18
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-3. 08. 2013 19:55:03
Today on VMP. Up via Velika Dnina and Red Gully, to summit part via left passage because rock is better than right one plus some pegs hammered so can belay if needed. Down same passage only further via scree over two steps not too demanding only watch scree and sharp rock.
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skočnik123. 08. 2013 19:57:24
and, how was it?zmedenzavijanje z očmi
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