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Veliki Oltar

KLAN25. 08. 2021 12:31:33

Hey, but from the other side there's still a whole ski slope, no chance I'd climb it with Superga shoes and half-running steps, this hribi.net does wonders, suddenly I find a pic from Dnina, if it'll help at all, I think Planko's already up there this year big

(+3)

Planko30. 08. 2021 17:48:37

I've apparently caused some really interesting writing with my simple (maybe naive) question. eek

Meanwhile due to circumstances I kinda forgot about this thread, since we decided to postpone the trip to September and re-plan it to be suitable for people without winter gear and needed knowledge to use it, meaning we'll attack Oltar from Vrata.

Thanks to all who replied, both those who gave opinion in strange twisted way (and incidentally provided relevant info!), and those who took the question seriously (which it was) and warned about danger and ambiguity of previous replies. Result was really interesting, even philosophically tinted debate, in pure-blooded Slovenian style of course smile

From answers I conclude:
-conditions in Dnina still wintery and proper gear needed,
-approach to Oltar this way fu**** up and as naive unskilled hiker better worry about everything else than above point,
-end of August on any demanding pathless terrain conditions can always be wintery (with all respect dprapr but this seems slight exaggeration).

For final "twist" or explanation: plan was to hire guide for the trip who'd take me and one other person without winter knowledge and gear to Oltar. No one thought of that, ha?! cool

(+5)

redbull30. 08. 2021 18:32:18

I'd first recommend approach from Vrata, if you haven't been yet. On the snowfield it's like: if no experience moving in MIX conditions then winter gear essential. For myself I know how I'd gear up, hard to advise others as we don't know each other. But also possible when there see if can avoid possible snow on the slab. More options wink

. Scale-wise still II climbing, nothing to underestimate.
Good luck

(+3)

garmont30. 08. 2021 19:05:24

@Planko, really unlikely from your questions anyone thought you'd ascend Oltar with mountain guide. rolleyes

Ask him…

(+8)

dprapr30. 08. 2021 19:54:11

"that at end of August on any demanding pathless terrain conditions can always be wintery"

Don't know where I'd claim that, but if you understood it so, then it holds. smile

My intent was to think that it's absurd someone visiting such demanding pathless areas cares about state of some gentle snowfield like in Dnina.

(+5)

jax2. 09. 2021 16:17:58

I'll revive this thread too. Despite the dire warnings from some forum bigshots, I still dared to step into Dnina. Not to Altar, but to Ponca, but as for the path through Dnina, I can answer anyway. Here's how it is (or how it was yesterday):
- snow in Gruntovnica can be avoided. But that's perhaps the trickiest and most dangerous part of the whole route. Exposed traverses over steep scree on a practically non-existent path demand special mental fortitude. I seriously considered if it wouldn't be easier just through the gully.
- the snowfield in Dnina is pretty big. Slope is - depending on traverse line - fairly gentle, but it was rock-hard in the morning, so I used the most blasphemous and strictly forbidden mountaineering gear for crossing - microspikes. On the way back snow had softened quite a bit, so crossed without issues. Maybe possible to bypass snow on the left, but it'd involve nasty scree and probably some traverses over scree-covered rocks, so not sure it's worth it.
- once you cross that snowfield at the bottom of Dnina, no more snow to be seen up towards Oltar notch.

BTW, the rest of the ascent to Great Ponca is fine. But that's no longer part of the topic.

And attaching three pics.

Snow can be avoided, otherwise the approach leads quite high on scree and sand to the right. Extremely delicate.

Traverse the entire left tongue. Gentle, but very hard in the morning. Bypass on the right might be possible, but probably not worth it.

(+12)

djimuzl2. 09. 2021 23:38:36

Very pointy smile

Especially since you'd have to pick up at least two stones along the path big

(+1)

dprapr2. 09. 2021 23:47:02

Looks like jax has his own path into Dnina. Exposed traverses, and microspikes,... smile

(+4)

KLAN11. 09. 2021 16:50:31

If this isn't my favorite mountain... conditions are normal

(+6)

mukica18. 09. 2021 07:22:11

On Wednesday we took advantage of the nice day before this weather downturn and occasional road closure to Vrata to visit this beautiful mountain.
We went up via Brinja and unexpectedly caught the sunrise on Šplevta smile

.
After that we head over scree towards Grlo looking for cairns. Path seems a bit more eroded each year to me, but followable. Carefully and thoughtfully. At the top enjoyment in calm windless conditions and wonderful views all around. Peaks were more or less deserted, at least we didn't notice anyone. After careful descent we stop at the bivouac at Jezera, refresh a bit and then all the way down scree to the valley. The scree also seems closer to the valley each year to me rolleyes

the world is beautiful here and little visited

we return to these parts again... is there something to hike and see

rest at the bivouac with the best view of daddy

(+10)

bongo21. 09. 2021 00:28:55

Mountain with a capital M. Path to bivouac II or Šplevta without issues, then serious erosion, only more or less visible cairns help progress. Interesting feeling when a solid chunk of rock stays in your hand midway, and everything crumbles underfoot nasmeh

Progress and scrambling up to grade 2 require quite some focus and caution. Easier middle section to scree and views into Za Akom cirque are good to rethink everything nasmeh

Description on hribi.net is accurate, Stritar's maybe a bit mild. Arrival on narrow ridge from north side is quite epic, progress along it and summit view towards Rokavi, Škrlatica, VMP and D. Križ priceless. After a few minutes of enjoyment in total peace the thought slowly gnaws how you'll get down, since summit is half the tour, on Great Altar maybe not even halfway. velik nasmeh

Orientationally demanding tour, descent to bivouac II with careful downclimbing a story in itself, but view back at Martuljek giant outweighs it all. Surrounding peaks really deserted, pure experience and nice company on path round off nice Wednesday hereabouts, scree almost to Vrata eases return. cool

Views from Šplevta to Stenar and Triglav

(+10)

mukica21. 09. 2021 05:48:22

Bongo.... bravo for the tour and report. We met a bit below the bivouac mežikanje

Happy that we met in person nasmeh

(+1)

jax21. 09. 2021 09:18:16

Yeah, that ridge is really fantastic. Grade 2 on Altar I don't think so, except if you climb that gully under the summit, which you can bypass. Erosion yes.
But Altar is still easier than both Poncas in my opinion. If nothing else because the important easing factor on approaches past bivouac II is that you get very high on a non-problematic path. On other Martuljek approaches (Dnina, Macesnov) difficulties start very low and last very long, so tours require much longer concentration and are overall more demanding.

(+2)

lijaneja21. 09. 2021 11:55:19

Bravo, Matej.
Šplevta (pic 14) starts descending there towards Mala Šplevta, where ridge difficulty increases sharply.

(+2)

palček plezalček21. 09. 2021 12:20:06

Nice tour and pics. nasmeh

(+2)

kristi21. 09. 2021 20:59:10

really something special?

(+1)

redbull21. 09. 2021 21:51:39

Who's special, Kristi?

(+4)

mdenac13. 03. 2022 22:12:57

Today my colleague and I tried to summit Great Altar - reporting on unsummited peaks always has a somewhat bitter aftertaste (especially turning back 7m below the top), still the conditions info might be useful or at least interesting to someone.
Started at 5 at Peričnik and got to bivouac without issues. Snow still in valley, then gone for a bit (gully has some unconnected tongues), firm snow from jump onwards where scree starts. Scree has bigger bare patches too but reached bivouac on snow - it was really hard and super for walking. At bivouac donned crampons and headed to Altar. Snow from bivouac to harder bits less nice, lots of windpacked with weak crust collapsing. First "climbing" to Grlo mostly bare so scratched rocks a lot with gear. Seemed snow getting much firmer, descent not easy. At Grlo ditched packs and started summit push. First planned prominent gully a bit right but snow gross so quickly left to summer route with some "dry-tooling". Snow wherever was worse - indistinct ridge often south left, windblown powder right. Despite hassles reached summer traverse right spot to other ridge side for summit attack. But failed there - right traverse no go all windpacked no hold, left to gully with summit abseil belay in reach started slushing down. Tried direct up but two axes around neck crampons bare rock not usual skill. Turned frustrated just below top started super tedious scree south snow descent needing huge patience attention. At Grlo packs saw maybe start one gully lefter for top (if snow good). Descent Grlo to Šplevta piggish - followed tracks to abseil stance. No rope so traverse left steep south tongues carefully to snowfields below. At bivouac both big relief sigh, no complaining nice mountain day.