vstarc16 - Recent messages

On Sunday 16.2. we ascended on touring skis via path 636 to Prevala, from there to Prestreljenik notch. We skied down to station C and ascended back to Prestreljenik notch, from there via ski slope back to Neveja. The snowcat was in the same position as in Bagij's photo, the section between Prevala and Prestreljenik notch was 'packed' by skiers and wind, from Prestreljenik notch down to Slovenian side there were no tracks that anything was stamped.

I'd ask lingo where we are in the public transport story, we alpinists and ski tourers who have a 250 km drive to the Aljaž parking and also a state border. In the last 40 years I've been in the Vrata valley many times, with mates or alone, car parked for 2-5 days, while I was on hiking, climbing or ski touring trips.

Public transport on the Zagreb-Jesenice line exists by train 4x daily, the ride lasts 3.30-7.20h, no departure is adapted to mountaineering tours. If I want a weekend trip (e.g. climbing in Stena) on Friday I can't go to work so that I arrive early enough to sleep in Aljažev dom. For the return on Sunday I have only the train at 17.30 h; if I start from Kredarica at 8 h I'll be at Aljaž at 12, then I still have 5 h to get to Jesenice. Due to an ankle injury it's no option for me to walk to Mojstrana, and if there is no bus I won't get home on Sunday.

In Vrata I roamed alone many times for several days in the area between Kriški podi and Kukova špica, on the other side Stena-Triglav-Stanič-Za Cmirom. There is no marked or unmarked path there that I haven't walked, no summit that I haven't stepped on. If I drive to Vrata myself the transport costs are already so high that there is no option to also pay multi-day parking in the amount those crooks thought up.

It's sad that my daughters, who are slowly old enough to start tours in the Alps, won't get to know the beauties of JA, very likely soon not even KSA, and that we'll mostly go to Italy or Austria. I've been a member of PD Ljubljana-Matica for 35 years, wondering if continuing PZS membership makes sense, since PZS fights nothing to enable free access for multi-day mountaineers (for me Logarska dolina is an example of a good solution) and hut prices are anything but friendly. A few weeks ago we were ski touring in France, overnight in French federation huts is 12 EUR (only communal beds), please if anyone knows such a price in SLO, of course in the Alps.
Sapienti sat.

My question to KG municipality:
Regarding Kranjska Gora municipality post ( https://obcina.kranjska-gora.si/objava/1015314 ) that winter conditions on Mojstrana-Vrata road from 15.11.2024, please explain what specific conditions on 15.11.2024 dictate declaring winter conditions? Snow? Ice? Avalanche risk? Why not on Vršič road?

Reply:
Dear,
based on message from state road manager, Kranjska Gora Municipality just forwarded road closure notice. As it's state road, manager decides on necessity and reasons.
Nice day, Robert Klinar

Who is road manager? I'll write him too.

On Sunday 14.7. I climbed via Hanz’s route. The crossing over the extreme fissure onto the snowfield at the foot of the Devil’s Pillar is very difficult, there is still about 5 m of snow. You have to climb down a few metres on the cable, make a ledge in the snow with the ice axe and step across the fissure. To the edge of the snowfield it’s 3 m at 70 degrees and you have to pull up twice on the ice axe, standing on the front points of the crampons.

The ledge leading below the summit of the Devil’s Pillar is snow-covered in the upper half. A bypass left on the rocks is possible (quite smooth, I-II), I went right, between snow and rock, which didn’t work out – no exit. I had to put the crampons on again and climb onto the snowfield (45 degrees). Further on there is no more snow. I descended via the ridge route.

On Sunday 14.7 I climbed Hanzova path. The crossing over the extreme crack to the snowfield at the foot of Hudičev steber is very difficult, snow is still around 5 m. You need to climb down a few meters on the cable, make a platform on the snow with the ice axe and step over the crack. To the edge of the snowfield is 3 m at 70 deg and you need to self-belay twice on the ice axe, standing on the front points of the crampons.

The gully leading below the top of Hudičev steber is snowed in in the upper half. A bypass left on rocks is possible (quite smooth, I-II), I went right between snow and rock, which didn't work - no exit. I had to put the crampons back on and climb the snowfield (45 deg). No more snow ahead. I descended the ridge path.

In severe cold and strong wind (which luckily calmed in the afternoon) Nataša and I climbed to Križ on Saturday past Bivak IV. The path was snow-covered from Aleš hut, hard snow starts at the junction to bivouac below Stenar gates, but it was possible to reach the bivak without crampons. Further we walked with them, to the ridge it's hard almost continuously. On descent to Pogačnik hut many bare spots (especially on ridge), last 100m better remove crampons. We slept in winter room of Pogačnik hut, which is fine.

On Sunday 8.1. Nataša and I climbed Stenar from Pogačnikov dom. To Dovška vrata mostly dry, some spots where crampons would be good but doable without. Further hard crust, traverse trodden. Descended through Sovatna, with crampons to 1850m, next 300m descent quite unpleasant conditions due to many icy patches.

Last Saturday, a group of seven did the classic tour to Špik. Up via Lipanca, snow patches on the path start at 1800 m, from 2070 m onwards the snow cover is very hard/icy and crampons are necessary. We descended through Kačji graben, down to 1850 m very hard with mandatory crampons, below 1800 m no more snow. Weather and conditions excellent.

On Saturday 21.5. we ascended from the cable car to Kokrško sedlo via Žmavčarje to the new bivouac below Skuta. Continuous snow starts at 1850 m.

Bivouac is nice, architecturally integrated into the space, bothers me that there are no blankets in it. Bivouac is a climbing base and now besides climbing gear you need to carry a sleeping bag. It's also a shelter on the way between Okrešelj and Cojzova koča and a blanket can come in handy for a soaked mountaineer. Lack of blankets won't stop those who want to stay multiple days - in BIV even though it's 'cleaned' some still bivouac for days.

On Sunday 22.5. we went to Skuta via Streža. Except to the branch above bivouac (to there crust that holds lighter) snow was too wet and soft sinking 30-40 cm, above the shoulder (to there possible without crampons) also some mixed and icy parts, in those conditions I'd rate it 45/30-40 degrees, M1. Descended via Štruco, snow on descent from ridge and on slabs below Skuta wall patchy and completely unsupportive so some passages tricky. To valley via Gamsov skret, lots still doable on snow, snow ends at 1420 m. Except in bivouac (which was full) met no one, enjoyed nice weekend Alen, Ivan and Vanja.

Photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/111611792261452845283/6288325736015066161