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Challenge in the mountains

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ljubitelj gora24. 02. 2013 18:11:08
You know how cold it was at the Dobrač parking lot, a challenge and a real test of how long non-mountaineering clothes hold up. Even though I had on a t-shirt, pile, long-sleeved shirt, wool pullover and thick thermo, double pants, double socks, it barely held the warmth for me, even in the steepest climb I didn't sweat. Outside it was about -20°C. I don't know about that gold foil though, whether it holds heat.
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risto24. 02. 2013 19:05:09
Those were hiking and not mountaineering clothes.
Gold foil must be expensive though.velik nasmeh
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ljubitelj gora24. 02. 2013 19:27:20
not even hikingnasmeh
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panda24. 02. 2013 20:29:54
lg: you're a living legend. I'm surprised, given the number of adventures experienced, that you still exist. But it hasn't taught you yet. Instead of being more seasoned from tour to tour, you still rush into accidents.
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ljubitelj gora24. 02. 2013 20:36:47
Another story from last year: Nice weather was forecast and conditions were solid, the meteo report said 2nd degree. In the group we agreed to go to Ledinski vrh, only to that one we'd climb from Jezersko. I knew those ends, since I hiked there in summer and it seemed too dangerous to push up with snow. Two decide for weekend from Jezersko, three of us decided to go from Logarska dolina, since Ledinski vrh is much easier from that side. The day came and three of us met in Logarska dolina, couldn't drive to the end with the car, so we hiked about half an hour to the end where you drive in summer. The path was trodden to Okrešelj, further less and less, to the fork for Turski žleb and Ledinski vrh towards Ledinski vrh there was no trodden path except ski tracks from ski tourers, we trampled a bit more, sinking over the waist. I said, what if we rather go for Turski žleb and Rinke or Turska gora, ahead in Turski žleb people were already going and there was a track, lots of snow. We put on crampons quickly, since it was slippery below, I go quite ahead of two companions, where I stop at couloirs, there a markacist joins me, I talk a few words with him and he says it's quite dangerous here and avalanches fly down too. When the other two arrive we rest a bit and attack the couloir, towards the top the slope increases, some windpacked snow that could release. Conditions were rated at 2nd degree. We exit the couloir, not much snow or it's processed, sunny aspect, nice weather in previous days. I go a bit further in the direction of Skuta-Rinka, then see a nice steep slope towards Mala Rinka and attack the slope there. Others watched me, I nothing, just enjoyed. Behind me the two companions come. One companion decides to wait a bit below Mala Rinka. Higher I hear a helicopter, rescuing someone from below Brana, the rescue didn't take long, the injured was brought to Kamniško sedlo. Me and one continue towards Koroška Rinka, snow doesn't sink in, three Croats follow us, I knew the terrain there, since I had hiked there 2x before. We two go to Štajerska Rinka, then to Koroška Rinka, from the top I look at Kranjska Rinka, but no easy access to it, since there was only one track and the companion below Mala Rinka would wait too long. We decide for descent, at the same time the Croats too. It was really a nice day, almost no wind but then the accident happened. Below Mala Rinka there was an icy base, hard and when we were descending the companion slipped, when I heard screams... I look and he's already gone. I was quite scared about what was happening, since I didn't see how he was, I descend quickly and very carefully to him, ask him, are you ok, are you injured, does anything hurt. He says everything is ok, after a few minutes I ask him again, is everything really ok. It really upsets me that this happened, since he fell over rocks. Ahead there was still descent over Turski žleb, before that I myself practiced some techniques for stopping with the ice axe, so that in case of a fall in the couloir I'd react immediately. In the couloir we went backwards all the time and safely arrived at Okrešelj, just descent to the car. Except that fall from below Mala Rinka the tour was quite ok.

Another story. Last year we decide to go to Stenar, in Vrata about 15 mountaineers gathered, the lower part of the path was almost dry, higher more and more snow but it didn't sink in, crampons had to be put on. Over Stenarska Vratca, where some small ice awaited us, a fall there wouldn't exactly be pleasant and it wouldn't go without injuries. I knew that route too, so I was always in front and somewhat overtaking, leaving others behind, since that's the point, that we hike more freely than alpine clubs do, where the rules are clear. But my lead I assume didn't bother anyone. To the summit it went smoothly and without peculiarities, back the descent over those Stenarska vratca was quite exciting. I descended first, then the biggest stupidity with crampons backwards I descended quite far down, but it was powder. According to others' reports, during the descent someone fell back, did a somersault but caught himself, otherwise someone else would have gotten hurt.

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viharnik24. 02. 2013 20:37:00
One nail drives out anothervelik nasmeh.
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ljubitelj gora24. 02. 2013 20:51:05
@panda: Given the number of tours, this is just a few stories, I don't have more. I don't do it on purpose, but it happens, challenge, I'm not that capable, agile as it should be counted, some were athletes for years, ran, trained, but for me it's a joy to go up and feel something special when going up regardless of nagging. Actually these are past and from it I can pull many things others maybe haven't experienced and that's on one hand bad, when it happens then panic, but for me I assume no more, since I've been through it. Invites from others I often declined, like invite for Široka peč, many would surely accept and later on one hand "regret" with one of the hardest ascents in Julian Alps. Everyone judge for himself how far he'll go.
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Sam.volk25. 02. 2013 10:03:01
@LG. From Okrešelj you reach Savinjsko sedlo, then further to Ledinsko sedlo and further to Ledinski vrh. If you think you have to write something let it at least be accurate. Better stick to fishing. Lp
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jarsan25. 02. 2013 10:20:31
Under Ledinski vrh is Jezersko sedlo and not Ledinsko.
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bostjanp25. 02. 2013 10:56:29
@LG: what would you do if friend got seriously injured slipping from Rinka? Not about calling help, I mean what would you do inside, how would you calm the guilt? If you lead someone you take full responsibility for him, right? Damn, you guys are not normal, playing with fate, own and others', and in winter?? I mean, good you're doing all this.
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JusAvgustin25. 02. 2013 11:05:22
At this occasion, two quotes came to my mind, the first is known to everyone, the second a bit less. They are quite "heavy" in combination. The universe and human stupidity have no limits, I'm not sure about the universe. (Einstein) You can die climbing in the mountains. (Prle)
Novels have already been written about guilt and responsibility.
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panda25. 02. 2013 11:08:37
LG: what all you don't write. I have to admit that reading is fun only to that extent, when I imagine what all you don't do. I can't imagine a "trip to the mountains" with you. If half of that is true, what you wrote, you're a total irresponsible and "weirdo" that nothing ever "satisfies". zmeden
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ljubitelj gora25. 02. 2013 11:23:51
What guilt? What leading? What responsibility? I can't be responsible if I'm not a mountain guide nor an alpine guide nor have done the alpine school. Clearly and loudly it was said and "the others agreed", that everyone goes on their own responsibility, that was the agreement with everyone with whom we went to the mountains.
Who should I even take to the mountains anymore if I would be responsible for them, therefore no one. You know how many folks arrange joint trips and yet don't deal so much with this responsibility problem, normally we take care of each other so that everyone safely gets up and down.
I write stories so that you others will also write yours and not comment on my messages.
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ljubitelj gora25. 02. 2013 11:28:58
@panda: Fun it can't quite be, true that I write them late in the evening, but let's have one writing style, those "offensive" words leave to yourselves. Others say that I'm quite stubborn and don't let myself be convinced, unfortunately, no matter how foreign the opinion, advice doesn't stick to me. velik nasmeh
For Ako1
Široka peč2
Široka peč, Veliki Oltar3
Kukova špica4
here the passage was quite difficult5
somewhere below the ridge between Veliki Oltar and Velika M. Ponca6
Velika Martuljška Ponca, in summer there is still snow inside there, so without equipment no chance.7
ascent to MMP, good rock8
9
Žaga and Škrlatica10
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Daaam25. 02. 2013 11:35:29
Here I agree with LG ..if you agree with two (even via net) to go together to the hills, it still doesn't mean that then you must be a mountain guide... Then, everyone would have to have the exam done..
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tinky25. 02. 2013 12:42:45
Who even wants to go with you interests me. You write stories, more like nonsense.
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ljubitelj gora25. 02. 2013 12:52:49
One level of communication wouldn't hurt you.
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panda25. 02. 2013 12:55:16
LG: yeah I see, nothing sticks to you. Not even to yourself. velik nasmeh
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ljubitelj gora25. 02. 2013 12:56:40
The topic is meant for stories of such and different kinds, don't be coy and pretend others have no stories because you surely have.
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ljubitelj gora25. 02. 2013 13:29:54
Mountaineers are heading to Gran Paradiso under guidance: http://www.drustvo-strmina.si/dogodki/vzpon-na-najvisji-vrh-grajiskih-alp-gran-paradiso-4061-m/
For me it's not an option, it doesn't interest me, but the description says the following:

All tour participants must have paid mountaineering membership fee for the year 2013, preferably A membership or equivalent other insurance. Required equipment is complete winter equipment with climbing harness and helmet and avalanche probe.

How many of those who will participate in the tour have avalanche probe?


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