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Equipment

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IgorZlodej22. 10. 2011 12:49:45
Hey, three is too few, at least 5 sets you needmežikanje.
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GregorC22. 10. 2011 13:11:47
I got chains for freevelik nasmeh With the camerazavijanje z očmi
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ljubitelj gora22. 10. 2011 19:18:52
Classic crampons, who can tell me something good about these crampons, where you can get everywhere normally.
Classic crampons would fit fine on summer boots.
Automatic crampons + new boots 350 euros.
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turbo22. 10. 2011 20:02:14
Classic ones, 12-point crampons, the twelvers, with them you get everywhere. I know people who went even to a waterfall with them.
I go with classic crampons every winter to gullies, for example Butinarjeva, Pripravniška, Župančičeva above Vršič, Mojstrovka. And central or Y in Begunjščica. And eastern in Tošcu. And similar. They are very universal stuff. Sure I have some more orange crampons for gullies, but if I'm hauling skis to the gully, I go with regular ones. If on foot, I have those orange for the gully and then for approach.
ATTENTION:
no matter what boots you have, think also about semi-automatic model. Equally easy to put on, safe, comfortable. I've also climbed 50 degrees plus with semi-auto and without bad feeling. Why semi-auto? If on your boot due to frequent use the front notch, edge where the front part of automatic crampon "seat" sits, wears out, bye bye automatic.
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ljubitelj gora22. 10. 2011 20:23:13
Crampons we mountaineers need all year round, this year in August I already crossed a snowfield three times, twice I succeeded (not ice), the third crossing didn't work (pure ice), had to turn back (4 meters didn't go, end) and find a rocky crossing. Crampons, helmet and additionally ice axe essential equipment.

But I don't get it, classic crampons and summer-soft boots, how come classic crampons don't bend.

Thanks turbo
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turbo22. 10. 2011 20:39:47
More or less every manufacturer states which crampons are suitable for a particular boot. Normal crampons with straps go on normal boots. And if the boot is soft, sole, the crampons can come off. And also the sole - the foot hurts if the boot is too soft.
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žerovsk gams24. 10. 2011 14:48:36
I'm deciding to buy crampons and in the shortlist I have crampons:
http://www.kibuba.com/index.php?&cID=5&scID=36&pID=5158
http://www.iglusport.si/dereze-c-14-mixed and
http://www.iglusport.si/dereze-g14-com
does anyone use any of them? I'll be happy for any comment
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JusAvgustin24. 10. 2011 15:42:23
Any of these are meant for ice, mixed and climbing ascents. C14 TOP, Lynx is the same stuff as C14 just more expensive and lighter, G14 you can't change to monopoint I'd choose automatic in your place...

Regards, juš
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žerovsk gams24. 10. 2011 17:07:40
can G14 not be changed to monopoint?
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JusAvgustin24. 10. 2011 18:57:53
My mistake, sorry all described have monopoint option. Personally I used monopoint only once, and that just as a test nasmeh

Regards

P.S. still rooting for C14 ice automatic crampons, very reliable and durable. But true what Turbo says: even with normal hiking strap crampons you can climb a waterfalleek
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turbo24. 10. 2011 19:44:16
Yeah, if I hadn't seen it, I wouldn't believe it. Lukežev's ice, about 15 years ago. And he had one classic, flat Stubai and one machine [ice axe], already quite "dented". Supposedly optimal conditions, that's super ice. Since Lukežev's waterfall was my first waterfall for me, it's hard to evaluate. Good, very good school. For me. To realize firsthand that not everything is in the equipment.
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ljubitelj gora24. 10. 2011 20:18:59
Today I went to Kibuba, Iglusport, and Pohodnik, and also stopped at the other shop in Vič to check how it is with equipment rental.

I'm a bit disappointed (in the sense that I won't have to go on winter tours). I was buying classic crampons and they told me that they generally fit any boot, but there are cases where some crampons don't fit every boot (boot heel width), so I have to take my summer boots to the shop to try which crampons will fit them. I also looked at that metal part at the bend; some have solid reinforcement, other crampons have a thinner one.
If I really want satisfactory equipment, I'd have to buy new boots and then classic crampons would be OK. The issue is sole stiffness, and with a soft sole and classic crampons problems can arise.

Then I also looked at ice axes, 50-65 cm; one told me 60 cm, I don't know what to look for.

Then I also looked at pants; summer ones are fine too but you need long underwear pants.

Regarding equipment rental at Iglusport, when the weather is nice everything is rented out, so that no one is surprised—not just a bit, but quite angry—when the equipment is so expensive. Even if I spend 500 euros now I get only boots, crampons, and ice axe; where is the rest of the essential equipment?jezen

Now I'm determined to get some classic crampons for my summer TIBET boots and an ice axe, because those two must be there; without one or the other it won't work, the rest improvised at home.

But all this equipment, if I buy it, is useless if I still don't know how to properly use ice axe, crampons.mrk pogled

I won't stay at home; if in summer I climb all main peaks like 30 years ago, then in winter too...

Anyway, if someone wants to give me some advice on ZS.

In Kibuba I could enroll and do a course there.

I'm totally hooked on mountains, climbing, ferratas, enjoying, great views; even if someone knocks off 99.9% of it for me, I get it all back the next day....
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viharnik24. 10. 2011 20:39:32
In our shops there are the lowest prices in Europe; the problem is that with our 1/4 trash collector salaries abroad and the conditions in the country, everything looks expensive.
I advise you to join some mountaineering society among friends, where you can exchange equipment (ice axe, crampons); for warm clothes you'll have to manage yourself. Also follow sales ads for used equipment that's still good and costs from half price downwards. Don't forget wool gloves and a hat for winter days in the mountains.
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DarjaZaplotnik24. 10. 2011 21:15:39
Yes, the best is to organize a "quick course" in winter technique for @ljubitelj gora.nasmeh

Otherwise, equipment is really quite expensive. And it can take quite some time to put it together. So, LG, where there is will, desire, and passion, there is definitely a way. We also started in leather booties, tracksuits, strap-on crampons, with Makalu ice axes, in knitted socks... only if you have the vision, the real one you know, even that can't stop you. No chance!

Oh, @turbo. Of course not everything is in the equipment. Far from it. One of my good old friends said long ago: who knows how, plows with a goat!mežikanje

regards d
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1mitjas24. 10. 2011 21:34:54
In our stores there definitely aren't the lowest prices in Europe. I buy quite a lot of gear myself and all the bigger purchases are done abroad because it's worth it. Online from Germany, America; for many things it's also worth driving to Arco.

Classic crampons—for regular users more than enough; with them you can decently climb icefalls too (I myself climbed M5 with summer mid-height Asolo hiking boots and aluminum crampons—to save weight). The only drawback (of steel ones) is the fastening when you mount them. Aluminum ones are more for show (good on rock and snow); when you get to ice, you have no bite.
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viharnik24. 10. 2011 21:56:48
I was in France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland but after glancing at mountaineering shops I didn't find a bargain item, not even clothes. As for America, import via mail is quite salty relative to package weight, so all suppliers-importers deal with European manufacturers. Another problem with online buys with cards is claiming possible warranty on the item, since trip to foreign store costs more than what we bought. If we count our end-of-season discounts, Slovenian buys would be justifiably sensible and we protect our poor market and consequently ourselves.wink
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blazek3324. 10. 2011 22:05:00
,,viharnik,,-then you haven't been to Arco yet, climbing mecca in Italy, there the prices are quite significantly lower.
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ljubitelj gora24. 10. 2011 22:26:58
...then let's go shopping

EDIT: 25.10
Gear ordered.
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viharnik24. 10. 2011 22:42:05
I haven't been, but I've heard about endless ferratas and crags there, so Arco.
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